I just received two Gyes saddles in the mail today. A Gyes CL-10 Classic Look, http://www.crowcycleco.com/gyes/gye...t-rear-springs-leather-bike-saddle-brown.html , and a Gyes 17A, http://www.crowcycleco.com/gyes/gye...-bicycle-saddle-black-laces-copper-rails.html .
Appearance wise, they both look good, but I think the 17A is the knockout. For a roadbike saddle it really looks sharp. It'll add a few ounces to the weight of my Cannondale, but I couldn't resist putting it on there anyway.
The CL-10 comes complete with a fake rusty patina on the springs and undercarriage. I wouldn't bother paying the 10 dollars extra for it. I thought it looked a lot better in the pictures than the chromed or black versions and from a distance it does. Up close, it's more of just a textured, rust colored paint job. I took this one for a short ride, but just a couple miles as I'm getting over the flu. The leather Gyes uses is harder than a Brooks. My Brooks B135 felt pretty good right away. The CL-10 is obviously going to take awhile to break in. The triple springs aren't as soft as on the Brooks either, but they do cushion you when you hit bumps. They're still softer than no springs at all.
One thing it did seem to excel in was being reasonably comfortable in a variety of positions. It was pretty good sitting straight up. It's wide enough to support most of your butt and sprung. Better in that regard than a road saddle, even a good one. Bent over 45 degrees it was alright and I imagine that after a thousand miles or so, when the leather breaks in, it will be pretty good. Even hunched over in an aero position it was pretty good and that's one thing I can't say for the Brooks B135.
Surprisingly, I didn't find that the front spring had any effect on handling. I thought it might make the bike seem kind of sloppy and disconnected, but it's a solid enough connection that I didn't notice any problem with handling and I took a few corners very fast. I didn't try riding no hands, but I don't think it will be a problem.
I haven't ridden on the 17A yet, but the leather used on it seems slightly softer and it has extensive lacing across the bottom.
Comparing the CL-10 to my Brooks B135, I'd give the B135 the edge for a more upright bike like a cruiser. The B135 feels good right from the start, and the dual action springs in the back provide a very cushy ride. For a more hunched over bike like a road bike or a touring bike, I'd favor the CL-10. It's simply more comfortable in that position. The B135 squashes the tender parts when you hunch over and if you adjust the angle to avoid that then it wants to make you slide forward when you sit upright. The CL10 also costs about half as much.
Appearance wise, they both look good, but I think the 17A is the knockout. For a roadbike saddle it really looks sharp. It'll add a few ounces to the weight of my Cannondale, but I couldn't resist putting it on there anyway.
The CL-10 comes complete with a fake rusty patina on the springs and undercarriage. I wouldn't bother paying the 10 dollars extra for it. I thought it looked a lot better in the pictures than the chromed or black versions and from a distance it does. Up close, it's more of just a textured, rust colored paint job. I took this one for a short ride, but just a couple miles as I'm getting over the flu. The leather Gyes uses is harder than a Brooks. My Brooks B135 felt pretty good right away. The CL-10 is obviously going to take awhile to break in. The triple springs aren't as soft as on the Brooks either, but they do cushion you when you hit bumps. They're still softer than no springs at all.
One thing it did seem to excel in was being reasonably comfortable in a variety of positions. It was pretty good sitting straight up. It's wide enough to support most of your butt and sprung. Better in that regard than a road saddle, even a good one. Bent over 45 degrees it was alright and I imagine that after a thousand miles or so, when the leather breaks in, it will be pretty good. Even hunched over in an aero position it was pretty good and that's one thing I can't say for the Brooks B135.
Surprisingly, I didn't find that the front spring had any effect on handling. I thought it might make the bike seem kind of sloppy and disconnected, but it's a solid enough connection that I didn't notice any problem with handling and I took a few corners very fast. I didn't try riding no hands, but I don't think it will be a problem.
I haven't ridden on the 17A yet, but the leather used on it seems slightly softer and it has extensive lacing across the bottom.
Comparing the CL-10 to my Brooks B135, I'd give the B135 the edge for a more upright bike like a cruiser. The B135 feels good right from the start, and the dual action springs in the back provide a very cushy ride. For a more hunched over bike like a road bike or a touring bike, I'd favor the CL-10. It's simply more comfortable in that position. The B135 squashes the tender parts when you hunch over and if you adjust the angle to avoid that then it wants to make you slide forward when you sit upright. The CL10 also costs about half as much.
