Actual scientific testing of patina techniques? This build-off is really stepping up the level!
Luke.
Luke.
GYSOT! - Get You Some of That! - She's a Rider - heading to the Finished Bikes forum soon.
- Thread starter justride
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Definitely like "Side B" of this hit single! Your choice of colors and method are producing great results. The "aging" process (other than my own personal one) is the most intriguing and fun part for me on a build. Watching with anticipation...Playing with patina a bit. I picked up a piece of steel as a stand-in for the frame, and started painting one side with red oxide primer. Then I sprayed half of that side in black primer, then shot the whole thing with Willow Green.
Then I started wet sanding with some 600 grit sandpaper. Starting with the red oxide side...
Then the black and red oxide side.
I thought the sanding down to the black layer looked OK, but wasn't wild about the sanding all the way to the red oxide and bare metal.
On the other side, I tried something different.
Let's just assume that the top part of the metal is the top of the tank. I started with some etching primer - a full coat on the bottom, then a light coat at the top. Then I hit it with some gloss black, and finished it off with willow green. The logic was this:
The etching primer will stick to the metal, the black will stick to the primer, and the green will stick to the black. I hit the light areas, it should go right down to bare metal without much issue. Then, once I have bare metal exposed, I can rust it with vinegar and salt water.
So here's where I stand, after a little vinegar treatment. It's not bad, but I won't really know until it's had a chance to rust a little more.
Hopefully I'll get to the frame by the end of the weekend.
Work is killing me, but I did make a little progress on my patina.
I decided that this bike was actually made my D. M. Dearing Motor Bicycles out of Jackson, MI. I'm happy with the font, but I think I'll use more of a vanilla paint around the letters when I do this for real.
This weekend is all about priming and painting the frame and the wheels.
I decided that this bike was actually made my D. M. Dearing Motor Bicycles out of Jackson, MI. I'm happy with the font, but I think I'll use more of a vanilla paint around the letters when I do this for real.
This weekend is all about priming and painting the frame and the wheels.
Looks good!
Luke.
Luke.
The weather was nice today, so I started painting the bike itself. The forks and rack were already black, and since there were no decals, I just sanded them a bit, hit them with primer, then a black base coat before hitting them with the willow green base.
The fork legs are actually chrome, so I'm not going to be rusting them, but the rack is steel, so I figured I could use that to show you how I will get a head start on the patina. Before painting, I sanded bits of the rack down to bare metal, then covered with vinyl tape before hitting it with primer, the black base, and the willow green base.
The I peeled off the tape, and i was good to go.
After this step, I just wet sand to draw out more of the black.
And here's are the nicely aged forks and rack. Just need to add rust later this week.
The fork legs are actually chrome, so I'm not going to be rusting them, but the rack is steel, so I figured I could use that to show you how I will get a head start on the patina. Before painting, I sanded bits of the rack down to bare metal, then covered with vinyl tape before hitting it with primer, the black base, and the willow green base.
The I peeled off the tape, and i was good to go.
After this step, I just wet sand to draw out more of the black.
And here's are the nicely aged forks and rack. Just need to add rust later this week.
Nice! Fun to see everyone's "patina process" photos. Looking forward to more from you....The weather was nice today, so I started painting the bike itself. The forks and rack were already black, and since there were no decals, I just sanded them a bit, hit them with primer, then a black base coat before hitting them with the willow green base.
The fork legs are actually chrome, so I'm not going to be rusting them, but the rack is steel, so I figured I could use that to show you how I will get a head start on the patina. Before painting, I sanded bits of the rack down to bare metal, then covered with vinyl tape before hitting it with primer, the black base, and the willow green base.
The I peeled off the tape, and i was good to go.
After this step, I just wet sand to draw out more of the black.
And here's are the nicely aged forks and rack. Just need to add rust later this week.
Patina is looking good!
Luke.
Luke.
Wrapping up the work I started on the long weekend.
I managed to start painting on the frame. To speed up the patina process, I covered parts of the frame in tape so I can rust it up later.
It was kinda planned, but not really.
Once that was sorted, I hit it with some etching primer, then some black primer, then a black base coat and the meadow green.
Then stripped the tape away and was left with this.
Later that evening I painted on the sign, and let that cure overnight. I got up early this morning and started to distress it. I started wet sanding with a 320 grit, then moved to 600 before finishing with 1000. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
The pictures really don't too it justice. I'll have to take some more from the shade.
I ordered up some patina that I'm going to try out. It's on the back of a UPS truck, somewhere in Northern California... Update to follow...
I managed to start painting on the frame. To speed up the patina process, I covered parts of the frame in tape so I can rust it up later.
It was kinda planned, but not really.
Once that was sorted, I hit it with some etching primer, then some black primer, then a black base coat and the meadow green.
Then stripped the tape away and was left with this.
Later that evening I painted on the sign, and let that cure overnight. I got up early this morning and started to distress it. I started wet sanding with a 320 grit, then moved to 600 before finishing with 1000. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
The pictures really don't too it justice. I'll have to take some more from the shade.
I ordered up some patina that I'm going to try out. It's on the back of a UPS truck, somewhere in Northern California... Update to follow...
Very, very cool! 
Luke.
Luke.
I played around with my own patina a bit, and while it was OK, I was hoping for something a bit more red than orange. I found this stuff, and the pictures online looked pretty good. So I gave it a shot.
I sprayed it last night, and this is what it looked like this morning. Not bad!
Early on, I was shooting for the look of a 1952 Felt Cruiser that had been left in a field for 30 years. Well, even through it may be a Felt, this bike has been transformed into a 1952 D.M. Dearing Motor Bicycle - still left in the field for those 30 years.
David M. Dearing was from Jackson, Mi. Well, Sandstone actually, west of Jackson, MI, south of I-94. Back in the late 1800's, he had some interesting patents on bicycle wheels and bicycle frames - he even designed a tensegrity frame 60 years before Buckminster Fuller coined the term. Later had some patents on rotary engines, automobile suspensions, and even started the Steel Swallow Automobile Company, which made delivery vans and runabouts with simple, 2-cylinder, air cooled, boxer engines.
I don't think he ever motorized a bike, and my father (his grandson) doesn't remember that either. I'm taking some artistic license here, but I'm good with that.
Next up, I'll be doing my best Richard Rawlings impression, and really get to building this bike. Get You Some of That!
I sprayed it last night, and this is what it looked like this morning. Not bad!
Early on, I was shooting for the look of a 1952 Felt Cruiser that had been left in a field for 30 years. Well, even through it may be a Felt, this bike has been transformed into a 1952 D.M. Dearing Motor Bicycle - still left in the field for those 30 years.
David M. Dearing was from Jackson, Mi. Well, Sandstone actually, west of Jackson, MI, south of I-94. Back in the late 1800's, he had some interesting patents on bicycle wheels and bicycle frames - he even designed a tensegrity frame 60 years before Buckminster Fuller coined the term. Later had some patents on rotary engines, automobile suspensions, and even started the Steel Swallow Automobile Company, which made delivery vans and runabouts with simple, 2-cylinder, air cooled, boxer engines.
I don't think he ever motorized a bike, and my father (his grandson) doesn't remember that either. I'm taking some artistic license here, but I'm good with that.
Next up, I'll be doing my best Richard Rawlings impression, and really get to building this bike. Get You Some of That!
That rust looks awesome!
Luke.
Luke.
Love the back story! It gives the bike so much more character and that F/X stuff turned out great!
and that F/X stuff turned out great!
I like the results! Now, that was on bare steel, so it wouldn't have that same affect on my chrome parts right? I mean, chromed steel rusts in a different way...remember I'm just a noob here...
Love the back story! It gives the bike so much more character
Thanks guys, I'm really happy with how this is turning out, and that I was able to connect it back to the family. I know my dad thinks it's pretty cool.
I like the results! Now, that was on bare steel, so it wouldn't have that same affect on my chrome parts right? I mean, chromed steel rusts in a different way...remember I'm just a noob here...
That's probably right - I haven't tried it, but I don't think any of the patina stuff will work on chrome. That said Renaissance Man used some iron based paint on fiberglass last year, and it turned out really well - well enough to win BB09!
Nailed it! Patina looks great
Naturally!
I believe Plating "sacrifices" itself overtime to protect the base metal.I like the results! Now, that was on bare steel, so it wouldn't have that same affect on my chrome parts right? I mean, chromed steel rusts in a different way...remember I'm just a noob here...
If you grind away the plating selectively, then apply the corrosive you should have "aged chrome".
