Handle bar tube stuck in head tube HELP

[rubblequeen]

Hi trying to remove the handle bar tube from the head tube. Have soaked it endlessly with BP Blaster - I can neither shift the Handlebar tube or the nut holding the forks.

What if I saw through the nut? would that help?

Have probably made it worst by putting the head bolt in from below and hammering it, that's stuck and bent now!
Thanks in advance

 

[udallcustombikes]

Is it the handle bar stem you are trying to remove?

If so you need to get the wedge loose. Try driving it down with the biggest screwdriver you can fit in the hole. Don't be afraid to hit it hard.

 

[rubblequeen]

Hi thanks Probably #2 - I have the wedge loose and the nut freed up but still have the handle bar stem firmly stuck.

If I was to sacrifice the the front forks and saw through the tube just above the bearings do you think that I would then be able to remove the stem?

 

[udallcustombikes]

If you have the wedge knocked loose then you should be able to brace the forks and get the stem to break free. When I encounter that I lock the fork legs in a vice, install a set of straight mountain bike bars in the stem and slide a hefty piece of pipe over the bars on one side. A 3-4' pipe should give you the leverage you need to defeat the rust.

 

[rubblequeen]

Still stuck, wrecked my vice.
Willing to sacrifice the forks where would I saw to enable me to get it loose from the head tube?
The knurled nut holding the bearings in just won't undo - tried the hacksaw it - didn't even manage a scratch.

Tony

 

[udallcustombikes]

The knurled nut (cone nut) is hardened steel, you will have to use a cut off wheel to get through it. Cut the fork tube off just above the cone nut. Then take a hacksaw blade and cut a notch on the inside of the steer tube (takes some time). Once you have it cut take a beater screwdriver and beat the steer tube away from cone nut. Once it begins to peel away you might be able unscrew it and if not keep on beating!

 

[jalopyjimmy13]

oh what fun lol good luck buddy

 

[clamdigger]

All of these threads start with " I have been soaking with PB ( peanut butter? ) Blaster," and proceed to describe real life results. The product that never fails ( for me ) is Supco brand Rust Buster part # MO-44. It comes in a plastic bottle with a zoom spout. I think the active ingredient is liquid glycol either ( PTB ) which is making it harder to find due to hazmat shipping requirements. Plumbing wholesale and appliance parts stores carry it. Not as good, but frequently works is automatic transmission fluid, the red stuff.Try a long handled plumbers pipe wrench on the knurled cone nut, counter clockwise.

 

[Blueboy5000]

Propane torches are your friends. Sure they can eat up paint, but propane is too cold a fire to ruin steel. Simply heat the shineola out of the lock nut, then spray with water from a spray bottle. The rapid heating and cooling will break dielectric oxidization (aluminum rusts just like steel, except when aluminum rusts IN ferrous metal it makes bi-metal welding called dielectric oxidization). Heat then spray five or six times, and you'll be in the clear.

I've been building ancient bikes for 27 years and the good old propane torch has yet to fail me.

This is also my #1 way to remove rusted nuts and bolts from automobiles.

 

[gcrank1]

Mineral Spirits and ATF (3/4s to 1/4) makes a decent penetrating oil for me; most commercial versions dont seem to work any better, though Kroil is an exception. If you use Acetone (read the warnings) instead of MS it may be about the ultimate. IIRC, in tests it outperformed commercial products (there may be info online about it). When I run out of Kroil I will likely make a batch. Oh, and it isnt kind to paint!

 

[CycleTruck]

I had a similar experience with my Black Beauty, here:

http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=41854&p=407934

 

[rubblequeen]

Wrecked my vice
wrecked my neighbour's pipe wrench
Wrecked our friendship
wrecked my health
wrecked my work bench
wrecked my finances
wrecked the forks
BUT yes it's finally out much to the amusement of the street as I ran about doing a victory lap holding the forks above my head

Can't believe it was so hard - finally succumbed to the hammer and chisel method of bashing it inwards after cutting 4 slits in the threaded end of the fork.
Anyone have a Huffy Silver Jet front forks?

Thanks everyone for yo time and advice.

 

[gcrank1]

Man!, I hope that was mostly 'tongue in cheek'!
Even so, after that much aggravation you do have it out now and can get on with the project; at some point this ,too, will pass from feeling so painful.(hope that you dont ever have anything to match, or exceed it!)

 

[udallcustombikes]

Glad you won the battle! Now that you have defeated the forks you are ready to level up to "Stuck Seat Post"!

 

[rubblequeen]

Glad you won the battle! Now that you have defeated the forks you are ready to level up to "Stuck Seat Post"!

Apart from the forks everything else came apart real easy. Lulled me into a false sense of ease until I came up against the forks.
It's going to look great when finished - just a shame I'm too tall to ride it, but I'll have a go. :x

 

[gcrank1]

You probably already know, but......
Get the seat up to the right height and back so the kneecap is straight down to the ball of your foot (when the pedals are in the horizontal position), then 'tune' the reach with the length of stem and/or grip position. Ive made a few 'tad too small'ish frames fit me pretty well this way. After I get the reach close to right the seat height can be juggled a little, at the sacrifice of more knee strain if too low, but a little more 'cruiser friendly'. I have tried set back of the seat to the point of being too far as my stroke gets messed up unless Im sitting way up and straight (as with apes), so the stem has been my main tune for success.

 

[rubblequeen]

You probably already know, but......
Get the seat up to the right height and back so the kneecap is straight down to the ball of your foot (when the pedals are in the horizontal position), then 'tune' the reach with the length of stem and/or grip position. Ive made a few 'tad too small'ish frames fit me pretty well this way. After I get the reach close to right the seat height can be juggled a little, at the sacrifice of more knee strain if too low, but a little more 'cruiser friendly'. I have tried set back of the seat to the point of being too far as my stroke gets messed up unless Im sitting way up and straight (as with apes), so the stem has been my main tune for success.

Thanks, yes I will get it as close as possible and ride it - as I'll only be going round town on bike friendly trails it wont be too much of a problem. But it'll be great for when the nephews come over to stay, they'll love it.
And much of the pleasure is in bringing and old throw away back to life.