Headset dilemma

[Barkingdog]

Hi all,

First, this is my first bike project, so pardon my abundant inexperience. I’m trying to bring an early ‘60s Murray Sonic Flyer back to life. The bike followed me home from a salvage yard a few weeks ago. Here is the problem, I need a new headset but the bike has a 1.5 in I.D. head tube and a 1 in threaded fork. Apparently nobody makes that headset anymore. I’ve researched head tube reducers/ adapters/shims but all I find reduce to 1 1/8 fork size. I see lots of beautifully done bikes on this forum of the same vintage. How is everyone else solving this problem? Uploaded a picture of the bike as I found it.

 

[Dizzle Problems]

Unless this model is somehow different from other Murray’s of the time period, a 32.5/26.4 headset should of work just fine. 32.5 cups, 26.4 crown race. The way the label/word headsets can be really annoying.

This one should work—

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Threaded-Headset-26-4mm-Chrome/dp/B000AO5K88

 

[Barkingdog]

Unless this model is somehow different from other Murray’s of the time period, a 32.5/26.4 headset should of work just fine. 32.5 cups, 26.4 crown race. The way the label/word headsets can be really annoying.

This one should work—

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Threaded-Headset-26-4mm-Chrome/dp/B000AO5K88

Dizzle thanks for the reference! I will order it tonight.

 

[Starnger]

One other way i use here in Europe, where even that headset from Amazon is not available, is getting 1-1/8 headset (optionally reduction headset with 34mm cups for 1 inch fork or the aluminium adapters you mentioned) and cutting it on a lathe. You need to remove 1,5mm to make it 32,5 from 34, they are always strong enough to survive that. If you are hardcore enough, you can even do it without a lathe, just put the cup on the rubber piece on a bolt with two nuts, tighten them so the rubber expands and holds the cup and then put it into your drill. Grind it over a file, just don't forget to let it cool time to time so the rubber won't melt

 

[Phil Fink]

Maybe the 1+1/2" measurement was the Outside diameter - or time for new digital caliper (micrometer).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/150MM-6inc...iper-Gauge-Micrometer-Ruler-Tool/401541751221
[32.5 mm is about 1.28" = 1+1/4 plus 30 thousandths/inch].

 

[Barkingdog]

One other way i use here in Europe, where even that headset from Amazon is not available, is getting 1-1/8 headset (optionally reduction headset with 34mm cups for 1 inch fork or the aluminium adapters you mentioned) and cutting it on a lathe. You need to remove 1,5mm to make it 32,5 from 34, they are always strong enough to survive that. If you are hardcore enough, you can even do it without a lathe, just put the cup on the rubber piece on a bolt with two nuts, tighten them so the rubber expands and holds the cup and then put it into your drill. Grind it over a file, just don't forget to let it cool time to time so the rubber won't melt

Stranger
Sanding, painting and bolting on new parts are the total of my abilities. But you info is helpful anyway. Thanks.

 

[Barkingdog]

Maybe the 1+1/2" measurement was the Outside diameter - or time for new digital caliper (micrometer).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/150MM-6inc...iper-Gauge-Micrometer-Ruler-Tool/401541751221
[32.5 mm is about 1.28" = 1+1/4 plus 30 thousandths/inch].

Phil,

Glad you asked that question. As previously noted I am definitely a newbie. I was measuring the I.D. but I read the calipers incorrectly. The I.D. is 34mm or 1 + 5/16, a little over 1 1/4. Notice that I’m using a non-digital caliper (too cheap for the digital variety). So it does look like I can use the headset mentioned above might work. If nothing else I am learning a lot on this project. Thanks!

 

[Starnger]

View attachment 85041

Phil,

Glad you asked that question. As previously noted I am definitely a newbie. I was measuring the I.D. but I read the calipers incorrectly. The I.D. is 34mm or 1 + 5/16, a little over 1 1/4. Notice that I’m using a non-digital caliper (too cheap for the digital variety). So it does look like I can use the headset mentioned above might work. If nothing else I am learning a lot on this project. Thanks!

34mm is standard 1-1/8 headset size. You may use modern reduction headsets then to run 1" forks there.

 

[Phil Fink]

I was thinking of my Murray frame, I vaguely recall reinforcement shims inside the bottom bracket and head tube, but maybe I am remembering the wrong frame; what if they stopped using such reinforcements(?).
My rule with measurements is measure ten times and also write down what I measured, because they seem to grow or shrink over time. And then there are those odd-ball headsets, like the ~33 mm Worksmans, and the 35 mm Ross's. Sometimes the Wald economy headsets, with the 3 nubs are a way to go.

Electronic calipers are nice, but when the batteries wear down, seems like its cheaper to just get a whole new caliper.

 

[us56456712]

I use a lot of the Wald 3 nib headsets as mentioned above on old one inch headsets. They often won't fit but by using a Dremel Tool and a Dremel carbide rotary file I can usually get them to fit by grinding of the nibs. I keep a bunch of these on hand. Cheap, but OK for average riding, not good for a klunker. Some old non Schwinn one inch headset bikes require a Schwinn headset, or an old school BMX headset. The top and bottom diameters are not the same. It can be frustrating. I have on old 1936 Rat that I could not find a headset or bottom bracket to fit. I tightened up everything snug and tack welded the 4 new cups to the frame. Works perfectly. Let the next guy curse the idiot that did that Youper hack I say.