HELP! Should I worry about radial spoking on X-FD/S2C set?

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Hi Bike People,

I took my long awaited set of Sturmey Archer X-FD front brake hub and S2C rear 2-gear coaster brake along with two rims to the neighborhood bike repairer to have them laced. I specified stainless spokes.

I went to pick up the wheels today and they were radially laced. I think it was because the lacer couldn't find stainless spokes long enough for the standard 3-cross pattern. It was my fault for assuming he would do the 3-cross or call me first if he couldn't find spokes long enough.

Should I be worried about this? From what I've read, radial spoking isn't meant to withstand the torque of hub brake and coaster brake. So it's a double whammy for me. I was wondering what can go wrong and would like to hear for those who've had direct experience with this.

I'm not worry so much about spokes snapping - I'm more concerned about the hub braking. Like this...
18511-1.jpg


Should I have the wheels relaced? Or are they sturdy enough for road riding as they are? The hubs are 36 holes on a 700c rims.

Please help! I await your advice. :oops: :cry:
 
it might be OK for the front of a lightweight road bike, but I personally would never run a radial spoked rear .... :roll:
 
hubgearfreak said:
anon said:
Should I have the wheels relaced? Or are they sturdy enough for road riding as they are?

yes, no

also, you ought to stop going to that mechanic.

Thanks, that seals it. I'm relacing them ASAP.

PS. he's not really a mechanic, just a reliable neighborhood repair guy I have had good service from. Wheelbuilding not a forte, I guess.

I don't think there are any reak bike mechanics where I live. And very few 'bike shops', whole lots of bike vendors. :cry:

'tis why I'm building. Photos when done. Nothing exciting, just a roadster clone. :mrgreen:
 
building your own wheels isn't that hard. it's time consuming, your first one will take hours (i think mine was 5) but after you've done a few it gets quicker.
it's immensley satisfying to ride round on wheels that you've build yourself, and it's a good skill to have because once you've learnt you can straighten buckled wheels when you're out riding.

start your reading at sheldon brown and have a go at dismantling and rebuilding an old wheel. :D
 
hubgearfreak said:
building your own wheels isn't that hard. it's time consuming, your first one will take hours (i think mine was 5) but after you've done a few it gets quicker.
it's immensley satisfying to ride round on wheels that you've build yourself, and it's a good skill to have because once you've learnt you can straighten buckled wheels when you're out riding.

start your reading at sheldon brown and have a go at dismantling and rebuilding an old wheel. :D


Thanks. The problem for me isn't wheelbuilding. It's determining the correct length spokes and finding them. I was given a trueing stand and have done some wheels with all the parts already there. But if I have to source the spokes, it'll be a nightmare where I live, trust me.

BTW, the wheels are relaced. This time 2-cross, eventhough I specified 3. I hope they hold up.
 
hubgearfreak said:
anon said:
It's determining the correct length spokes

this one's never let me down
http://www.bikeschool.com/tools/spoke-length-calculator

anon said:
if I have to source the spokes, it'll be a nightmare where I live, trust me.

it's a nightmare in the shops here in town too. can you not order them online like i do? 8)


Thanks hubgearfreak. I will try that next time. Wheelbuilding is one of the things about cycling I want to get right.
 
scrumblero said:
2x shouldn't be a problem as long as your not jumping it... :lol:


Thanks :D I probably won't be jumping it :lol:

About spokes: Here the most common we get are these metal spokes that are like the equiv. of 3 cents each. WIth chromium coat maybe 5 cents. I had a coaster hub laced with the ordinary spokes for USD5 parts and labor. That one was good, 3-cross. With stainless, they are hard to find in the right lengths - i went to a shop and they just had 265 and 280, but they still don't cost much, say 30 cents. Now carbon fiber and the highest of high-end stuff are easier to find - for the racers.

Thanks everyone. It's 2010 and we're corresponding like in the golden era of cycling. :D
 
anon said:
stainless, they are hard to find in the right lengths - i went to a shop and they just had 265 and 280, but they still don't cost much, say 30 cents.

that's quite cheap, i guess - although i don't know which cents you're referring to?

if you want stainless, this is the shop i use - sells 72 DT swiss for £20 gbp + post, and sends worldwide 8)

click to open ebay spoke shop
 
hubgearfreak said:
anon said:
stainless, they are hard to find in the right lengths - i went to a shop and they just had 265 and 280, but they still don't cost much, say 30 cents.

that's quite cheap, i guess - although i don't know which cents you're referring to?

if you want stainless, this is the shop i use - sells 72 DT swiss for £20 gbp + post, and sends worldwide 8)

click to open ebay spoke shop

Thanks. That's not bad considering they're DT Swiss. Cents I refer to are US cents. I must confess my reluctance comes from being bad at measuring hubs and rims. I will come here to get help though now that I know where to get expert advice.

scrumblero said:
2x shouldn't be a problem as long as your not jumping it... :lol:

How about heavy skidding? I carved some dirt today out of habit and was cringe frozen immediately after. Good thing no harm done.
 

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