MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Shoot that explains it, I don't know much about threadless, never taken one apart. Threaded is much simpler to work on, doesn't require special tools. Much more common worldwide than threadless
[help wanted] Best focus to make an ACTUAL Huffy Parkside SE
- Thread starter Singleton
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By. Lockdown. I mean just locking the upper nut and lower cone together ..,
Thats where the two wrenches come in
As you turn the top wrench down turn the lower one up. This will bind them together so they don’t wiggle loose
One short ride later and... yea the gear that feels most neutral to me has gone up from second to fourth gear on flat ground. I could've sworn when i did the crank and chainring replacement the back wheel spun free so wonder when the misalignment happened.
Everything seems fine now though. Waiting on someone to come back so I'm not the only one here with the siblings so Ican do a more thorough run to see if I can make any squeaks happen. IF not yay if so time to pull the front fork off andgrease it and bearings.
Everything seems fine now though. Waiting on someone to come back so I'm not the only one here with the siblings so Ican do a more thorough run to see if I can make any squeaks happen. IF not yay if so time to pull the front fork off andgrease it and bearings.
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Oh, and for lockrings, I went to Harbor Freight and bought the cheapest pair of Chinesium Channellocks I could find, then filed away everything that didn't look like beaver teeth. Now I have adjustable lockring pliers that cost less than a single-size flat wrench.
I agree, walmart bikes are not that considering they can sell them for around a 100 dollars, I've bought bikes from walmart just for the bike parts. The others I use them for the rainy day rides so I don't have to ride my nice bikes in bad weather.
So I have to give the walmart bikes a thumbs up.
By the way don't use white lithium grease, I fabricate motorcycles and have bad issues with lithium grease..
So I have to give the walmart bikes a thumbs up.
By the way don't use white lithium grease, I fabricate motorcycles and have bad issues with lithium grease..
The grease I'm using has kind of a blueish look to it. Unsure of brand it's just in the grease gun.
I am rather pleased at how just a little bit of grease and parts tightening is making it feel a lot nicer.
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I pick up these things on closeout at the end of the grilling season. Cut the point off the tip and load the reservoir with your favorite grease. Now you have an applicator to put grease right where you want it--it's easier to use than the genuine Park Tool, and easier on your wallet, too. I think I paid 88¢ for one.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
I've got one of those things laying around somewhere, that's a great tip!
Questions:
Can anyone help me figure out what the frame's geometry is? Is that even something important in my use case?
Any advice when dealing with cabling?
Also Should I at all consider going up or down a tire size? Pros/cons of doing so? I'm only asking from an academic standpoint on this one due to the cost of decent wheels, but I figure may be worth tossing at the crowd's head.
Can anyone help me figure out what the frame's geometry is? Is that even something important in my use case?
Any advice when dealing with cabling?
Also Should I at all consider going up or down a tire size? Pros/cons of doing so? I'm only asking from an academic standpoint on this one due to the cost of decent wheels, but I figure may be worth tossing at the crowd's head.
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MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
You can gain a little bit of suspension if you buy bigger tires. The added air volume is a better cushion. No need to change rims, just go up a size on the 2nd number in the tire's size to smooth out the ride
You could try running the gear change cable around the other side of the head stock, similar to the rear brake cable. You do not need to disconnect the cable, just remove the hand grip, loosen the gear selector on the handlebar, slide it off, get the cable where you want and refit the selector and hand grip. Then try it out.
Sorry for the image glut. Just wanted to show the things i made adjustments to and have questions about.
Front brakes? Awesome work great love it.
Back brakes? They work well, but just look at that. They look lopsided, that don't look right to me.
Thoughts on the stem and front cable arrangement? Speaking of the stem... I do NOT like that gouge mark in the paint, can I get away with using a sharpie on that?
Any way to tell if my chain is proper tension? The deralliur is a direct mount yes?
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Okay...couple items. The derailleur is a clamp-on--that is going to limit your choices when it comes to replacement. Yes, hub-mount replacement derailleurs are available, but I question whether they're any better than what you already have. The upscale tiers will not work. As for the chain tension, the derailleur sets that by virtue of its spring and is not adjustable...at least, not on this style.
For touch-ups of chips and scratches, I prefer nail polish for its low cost, fast drying, and vast array of colors. That color of gold will be a tough match, but try the Sharpie, though it may not be durable.
Front brakes--check; back brakes...yeah, they're lopsided. That can be adjusted, BUT before you try that, understand that there are A LOT of interrelated properties that can combine to cause this and each must be addressed in a very specific order. It's complicated. Remember that song, "The foot bone connected to the...ankle bone?" I may seek out a video that better explains this adjustment than I can with mere words. Just know that the hub condition, rim, wheel true, dishing, and how carefully the wheel is mounted in the frame all combine to impact how 'centered' the rim ends up in final assembly. An off-center rim demands cockeyed brakes and that's probably how Huffy made their final adjustment.
For touch-ups of chips and scratches, I prefer nail polish for its low cost, fast drying, and vast array of colors. That color of gold will be a tough match, but try the Sharpie, though it may not be durable.
Front brakes--check; back brakes...yeah, they're lopsided. That can be adjusted, BUT before you try that, understand that there are A LOT of interrelated properties that can combine to cause this and each must be addressed in a very specific order. It's complicated. Remember that song, "The foot bone connected to the...ankle bone?" I may seek out a video that better explains this adjustment than I can with mere words. Just know that the hub condition, rim, wheel true, dishing, and how carefully the wheel is mounted in the frame all combine to impact how 'centered' the rim ends up in final assembly. An off-center rim demands cockeyed brakes and that's probably how Huffy made their final adjustment.
So what your'e saying is that for the time being the back brakes are fine so long as they're doing their job consistently?
Weird that it's showing up as a muted gold in that picture given the bike's listed as sage green.
I am glad that the creaking at the front fork has gone. Didn't even properly take it apart, must've been grease from when i pulled the quill stem out worked it's way in. I dunno, but it's far quieter which is what i want.
What bugs me is just how grungy it looks in those pictures compared to me just... eyeballing it. Then again blind guy vs camera.
So now that we have an established baseline and I am (finally) comfortable with how everything is. On to try figuring out what can be done to improve and make this thing live up to the 'special edition' name.
What i had in mind for functionality upgrades were an altus derailleur since that has a direct mount variant. I'd been recommended a pair of shimano v brakes (front and rear over what i have so they're kind of in the parts list until I'm given reason to either buy or discard) and a few bits of cosmetic items (brown 'leather' seat and grips to pair with the bike's overall color.)
If I had the proper space for it i'd strip the bike down to bare frame, strip paint off everything, and repaint (if nothing else getting paint off those rim brake surfaces would be nice. I'm surprised my bike doesn't sound like it's a dying seal when I stop.)
Given my limited funds I'm not sure on doing any of this, but at the same time even having parts on stand-by to buy if something breaks would be good. Just trying to separate out what would improve what i have, what is good to have in mind to replace a thing that breaks, and what's just plain junk and kick that out of the cart.
Rear Brake
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWHDNT4
Front Brake
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWHDMYU/
Altus Derailleur
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CMUQU0
Freewheel with a bigger climbing gear (Current one is 14t-28t)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099ZMTQQX
Seven Speed thumb shifter (for the sake of visibility more than the existing one being bad.)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0919764L5
Brown leather grips
https://www.amazon.com/VGEBY1-Lockable-Handlebar-Leather-Replacement/dp/B07SJF8DG9/
Brown beach cruiser seat
https://www.amazon.com/Fito-Oversize-Synthetic-Leather-Cruiser/dp/B01EGWAQXI/
Weird that it's showing up as a muted gold in that picture given the bike's listed as sage green.
I am glad that the creaking at the front fork has gone. Didn't even properly take it apart, must've been grease from when i pulled the quill stem out worked it's way in. I dunno, but it's far quieter which is what i want.
What bugs me is just how grungy it looks in those pictures compared to me just... eyeballing it. Then again blind guy vs camera.
So now that we have an established baseline and I am (finally) comfortable with how everything is. On to try figuring out what can be done to improve and make this thing live up to the 'special edition' name.
What i had in mind for functionality upgrades were an altus derailleur since that has a direct mount variant. I'd been recommended a pair of shimano v brakes (front and rear over what i have so they're kind of in the parts list until I'm given reason to either buy or discard) and a few bits of cosmetic items (brown 'leather' seat and grips to pair with the bike's overall color.)
If I had the proper space for it i'd strip the bike down to bare frame, strip paint off everything, and repaint (if nothing else getting paint off those rim brake surfaces would be nice. I'm surprised my bike doesn't sound like it's a dying seal when I stop.)
Given my limited funds I'm not sure on doing any of this, but at the same time even having parts on stand-by to buy if something breaks would be good. Just trying to separate out what would improve what i have, what is good to have in mind to replace a thing that breaks, and what's just plain junk and kick that out of the cart.
Rear Brake
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWHDNT4
Front Brake
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWHDMYU/
Altus Derailleur
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CMUQU0
Freewheel with a bigger climbing gear (Current one is 14t-28t)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099ZMTQQX
Seven Speed thumb shifter (for the sake of visibility more than the existing one being bad.)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0919764L5
Brown leather grips
https://www.amazon.com/VGEBY1-Lockable-Handlebar-Leather-Replacement/dp/B07SJF8DG9/
Brown beach cruiser seat
https://www.amazon.com/Fito-Oversize-Synthetic-Leather-Cruiser/dp/B01EGWAQXI/
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That Altus derailleur would definitely be a step up from what you've got, but unfortunately, it won't fit. That mechanism requires an integrated hanger, and you don't have one. Now, I'm just kooky enough to try cannibalizing a forged hanger from a cast-off product in the recycle bin. But that's just me and I've got a co-op with a treasure trove of parts to draw from.
Solid brake arms are always better than the stamped ones, but I judge the stamped ones as--mostly adequate. If you want to invest, I suggest superior brake pads.
I do like my MegaRange clusters, but be aware that a longer chain may be needed to accommodate the taller gear. I understand that you've changed from a large chainring to a smaller one, and that works to your advantage here.
Even if you swap the freewheel, the grip shifter will function properly. If you prefer 'thumbies,' that is reason enough to change. But, if you're doing it solely for the indicator, why bother? When pedaling becomes a chore, downshift; if you're pumping like crazy and getting nowhere, shift up. The number makes no difference.
Solid brake arms are always better than the stamped ones, but I judge the stamped ones as--mostly adequate. If you want to invest, I suggest superior brake pads.
I do like my MegaRange clusters, but be aware that a longer chain may be needed to accommodate the taller gear. I understand that you've changed from a large chainring to a smaller one, and that works to your advantage here.
Even if you swap the freewheel, the grip shifter will function properly. If you prefer 'thumbies,' that is reason enough to change. But, if you're doing it solely for the indicator, why bother? When pedaling becomes a chore, downshift; if you're pumping like crazy and getting nowhere, shift up. The number makes no difference.
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DANG! I wasn't even aware that they made these things, but there ya' go...$5 bucks, delivered.
https://www.nashbar.com/sunrace-ind...Advm0pHg1h9asTsCYhOooNDiMQYoKlvBoC5HMQAvD_BwE
Kool Stops usually get the nod as the best pads, but I expect nearly any name-brand pad will work well. At the shop, we use Jagwires, and I've been pleased with Clarks pads, which were a little more economical.
