the bike does look awesome though! :wink:
Heretic starts new bike
- Thread starter heretic13
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Would the small trailer leaf springs called slipper springs work for this type of setup?curtisfox said:
I think anything that is light waight would work,just that they will be stiffer and need less leves. I know one guy used a culf cart spring and usedd just the one leaf. Its just that snowmobiles are light waight and flex easyer. There is some useing trailer springs and seem to work out. ......Curt
Nice work so far!
Not normally into motored bike (mainly because of the laws here) but this is looking cool!
Luke.
Not normally into motored bike (mainly because of the laws here) but this is looking cool!
Luke.
Well I was going to try the trailer spring then someone recommend a snowmobile spring, living in Vt I made a few calls and I think I can pick one up for about twenty bucks. In the mean time I made a new intake and working out a few carb issues. Next on the list are wheels. Found some holy rollers and just need to sand blast the hoops and pick up some spokes.
Great bike.
Two things. G
Get rid of the skip tooth now. It won't last. It already has cracks in the links.
Second, get rid of the 3 speed. It's not designed for a lot of torque. You will bust it to pieces in second gear. People do it just riding them normal.
Very cool. Keep it up.
Two things. G
Get rid of the skip tooth now. It won't last. It already has cracks in the links.
Second, get rid of the 3 speed. It's not designed for a lot of torque. You will bust it to pieces in second gear. People do it just riding them normal.
Very cool. Keep it up.
You may be the first kid to ever call me "G" . I think I had a kid call me "dude" once be for I set 'em straight.
I'm 43 years old and most people know me as shop foreman.
That being said you give good advice. That letter you wrote. out frick'n standing.
And we got some high school'ers on here whose shop teachers need to start paying attention before they get hurt.
So you'll be glad to know the 3 speed won't get used. It is an Archer and may have held up longer then most junk but in the end
it probably would have ate it's self. and it would be a shame to waist it.
Something else you should know what I'm building is a toy for me to play with. It won't be legal for the road. and I don't need it to
get to work. But I would like it to work right.
For the forks I got rid of the leaf spring and found plans for Webb girder forks which are about half done now.
and guess what, I need to move my head tube because the rake is way off. It would be like trying to push a shopping cart wheel
backwards.
As for the chain I'm not sold yet. I'm trying to track down the tensile strength for skip tooth to see how it compares to modern chain
that's why I'm working on the forks and not the drive train.
But please feel free to give me more advice. the more information a decision is based on the better it will be.
I'm 43 years old and most people know me as shop foreman.
That being said you give good advice. That letter you wrote. out frick'n standing.
And we got some high school'ers on here whose shop teachers need to start paying attention before they get hurt.
So you'll be glad to know the 3 speed won't get used. It is an Archer and may have held up longer then most junk but in the end
it probably would have ate it's self. and it would be a shame to waist it.
Something else you should know what I'm building is a toy for me to play with. It won't be legal for the road. and I don't need it to
get to work. But I would like it to work right.
For the forks I got rid of the leaf spring and found plans for Webb girder forks which are about half done now.
and guess what, I need to move my head tube because the rake is way off. It would be like trying to push a shopping cart wheel
backwards.
As for the chain I'm not sold yet. I'm trying to track down the tensile strength for skip tooth to see how it compares to modern chain
that's why I'm working on the forks and not the drive train.
But please feel free to give me more advice. the more information a decision is based on the better it will be.
:lol: :lol:
I'm apologize. I never meant to put a "G" there. Ha! Not my style at all.
Sturmey Hubs are a dime a dozen. I rebuild them and have NOS parts, but they are really pretty weak.
The strength of the chain is not the concern. A new one will cost you around $90, though. The old ones are known for cracking, often. If a new chain was used, I'm sure the strength would be fine. I ran #40, and it is overkill. #35 chain would work just fine in reality. Another problem with skip link chains is that they are not smooth. They are kind of "chunky" feeling when they are pedaled.
The look and stance are great.
I'm apologize. I never meant to put a "G" there. Ha! Not my style at all.
Sturmey Hubs are a dime a dozen. I rebuild them and have NOS parts, but they are really pretty weak.
The strength of the chain is not the concern. A new one will cost you around $90, though. The old ones are known for cracking, often. If a new chain was used, I'm sure the strength would be fine. I ran #40, and it is overkill. #35 chain would work just fine in reality. Another problem with skip link chains is that they are not smooth. They are kind of "chunky" feeling when they are pedaled.
The look and stance are great.
Nice beefy front end!
Luke.
Luke.
The forks, are 5/8th on the front tubes and 3/4 for the back. sides are 3/8th aluminum with 1/2inch bronze bushings pressed in.
All 4 axles I turned on the lath starting with 5/8 solid stock stepping down to 1/2 for the bushing then to 3/8 and tapped for fine thread
for the castle nuts witch will be drilled for cotter pins.
The shock is hand made as well. sc80 pipe trimmed to 1 in OD and tapped for an adjusting nut, Valve bridge springs leftover from a rebuild
on one of the locos should work. with a 1/2 in slide going through a brass guide on the bottom.
All 4 axles I turned on the lath starting with 5/8 solid stock stepping down to 1/2 for the bushing then to 3/8 and tapped for fine thread
for the castle nuts witch will be drilled for cotter pins.
The shock is hand made as well. sc80 pipe trimmed to 1 in OD and tapped for an adjusting nut, Valve bridge springs leftover from a rebuild
on one of the locos should work. with a 1/2 in slide going through a brass guide on the bottom.
