how do you remove cranks?
- Thread starter poorhotrodboy
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The First big nut( you need a honkin huge cresent wrench ) is reverse
threads..then you will find a Big washer which will have a notch in it that seats in a notch on the crank..
it just slides off..you can fish it off with a Flat head screw driver buy getting behind it and prying it a bit loose..
then you will see a Big nut that has 2 notches on it..this is what holds it all together..like said above,grab a hammer and a good solid Screw driver..
fit the flat head in the notch and start tappin the hammer..
don't forget it's reverse threads
so it's NOT "lefty loosie..righty tighty"
the first time you take it off it will be tough...it doesn't hurt to spray everything with some Prosolve to loosen up all the rust on the crank threads.
when you put it all back together grease the heck outa everything...
and don't forget!
reverse threads...
peace,
Kev.
threads..then you will find a Big washer which will have a notch in it that seats in a notch on the crank..
it just slides off..you can fish it off with a Flat head screw driver buy getting behind it and prying it a bit loose..
then you will see a Big nut that has 2 notches on it..this is what holds it all together..like said above,grab a hammer and a good solid Screw driver..
fit the flat head in the notch and start tappin the hammer..
don't forget it's reverse threads
so it's NOT "lefty loosie..righty tighty"
the first time you take it off it will be tough...it doesn't hurt to spray everything with some Prosolve to loosen up all the rust on the crank threads.
when you put it all back together grease the heck outa everything...
and don't forget!
reverse threads...
peace,
Kev.
Check out my blog at http://bikeoverhaul.blogspot.com I've restored a complete bike and there is a tear down of a one piece crank BB with pictures.
off with youre crank
Don't forget to remove the [opposite of sprocket] peddle first iff you have a chain guard remove it 1st!!...like he said spray every thing down with some type of rust breaker; WD 40 , Break free, Liquid wrench etc..When using big flat tip screwdriver and [my favorite tool] big hammer watch out for the threads, youre knuckles and try not to stab youre self.. :wink:
Don't forget to remove the [opposite of sprocket] peddle first iff you have a chain guard remove it 1st!!...like he said spray every thing down with some type of rust breaker; WD 40 , Break free, Liquid wrench etc..When using big flat tip screwdriver and [my favorite tool] big hammer watch out for the threads, youre knuckles and try not to stab youre self.. :wink:
Oh My! Screwdriver+Hammer=Hack Repair!xddorox said:
Thanks for showing the correct way, xddorox!
Park Tool's is here
Measure twice, cut once...Always use the correct tool for the job...Never play cards with a man called Doc. Never eat at a place called Mom's. Never sleep with a woman whose troubles are worse than your own.
if it is original schwinn it is easy. just remember everything is counter threaded. also if the notch washer is either not there or when you remove the nut the inner race threads off with it you need to break them apart or you stand the chance of messing the threads up on the crank. one more thing when putting it back together make sure you put the bearings in the right way. 
Looks like your RRBBO bike has a 3 piece crank on it. You need a special tool get the crank arms off to do it the right way. http://74.8.32.132/nondealer/product.ph ... 67&large=1
I sell these for $10 and your local bike shop should have one or can get you one. Park tools makes one also but they are more $$$$. When you get the cranks off the same rules apply for a 1 piece crank. Hope this helps, Troy
I sell these for $10 and your local bike shop should have one or can get you one. Park tools makes one also but they are more $$$$. When you get the cranks off the same rules apply for a 1 piece crank. Hope this helps, Troy
xddorox said:
but if you're doing more than 1 (or doing yours more than once), why not buy the correct tool and eliminate the possibility of damage, especially if you are working on a 3 piece crank.
...and I not saying people should have "a bunch of bike tools" but if working on a 1 piece crank, a spanner should be towards the top of the list. The ONLY time I've used the screwdriver-hammer meathod (actually, I used a punch) to remove the adjusting cone was when a customer brought their bike in after THEY tried to get it off that way...screwed 'em up too bad for the spanner to work
The right tool for the job, IMHO!
Ok, I don't wack 3 piece cranks with a hammer and screwdriver, I use a big pair of plumber pliers.(I can hear those teeth grind from here...) The big flat screwdriver and hammer technique was used more than once on the same bike (mine if you are wondering), which I have rebuilt 4 times, with no damage. Many of my readers are from poor countries or inner city kids who only have access to the bare minimum, tool or otherwise. My blog is loyal to them. People with the knowledge, money and tools have plenty of other sites to keep them entertained.
Besides, I'm cheap. But that never reflects on the quality of my work, thousands of satisfied customers can vouch for that.
Peace.
Besides, I'm cheap. But that never reflects on the quality of my work, thousands of satisfied customers can vouch for that.
Peace.
wow thats cool that you know how to do that. personally i cringe hearing cranks removed in such a matter but then again being a mechanic A i have the tools at hand, and B i have seen customers ruin cranks by trying with out the right tool. once saw a set of XTR cranks ruined because the guy thought he did not need a tool and used a gear puller. he put the fingers on the chain rings and started pullin. can you guess what happend next?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+1
+1
Since the topic of 3 piece cranks is up. How do you adjust them? I am able to wiggle the crank arms on two of my bikes (One adjusted recently at LBS).
The one has a "click" every revolution of the crank at higher rpm's.
The one has a "click" every revolution of the crank at higher rpm's.
Ok, I do have a crank puller. What I meant was pulling out the 3 piece crank BB. Yeah I can imagine what happened to that chainring. A crank puller is one of those "can't live without" tool, I agree with that %100. So is a chain tool, freewheel socket, sealed BB socket and those very thin open ended wrenches to take care of the wheel bearings. Couldn't work without those.
Well cman on your crank question it depends if you have a sealed BB or a ball bearing BB. The sealed BB you usually have to get a new unit if it has play in them, as far as the non sealed BB it should have a 3 slotted nut on the LH side (sitting on the bike) of the crank. You can buy the Park tool or you can use a screwdriver and hammer to tap it loose and its NOT reverse thread. Now that the nut is loose you can turn the bearing cup that the 3 slotted nut is threaded on and adjust the slack out of it. You can use the screwdriver trick on this too if the cup will not turn. Once the slop is out you can tighten the slotted nut back down. Make sure you do not get the crank too tight. With your crank pop if the BB is loose it will make some noise tighten it up and see if that takes care of it. If that does not take care of it I would reccomend new bearings and a regrease. If you have any other questions I can help you thru it. Troy
you'll need a 14 mm socket wrench, a crank arm puller, and a pair of channellock pliers. the schwinn chopper has the ball bearings in the crank instead of having sealed cartridge bearings. hope this helps a little.
krazi
krazi
