How to: Easy tool for spreading rear dropouts

[Uncle Shish]

I know, I know ... there are many ways to accomplish this same feat!

If you like to run internal gear multi-speed hubs such as the Nexus or Sturmey Archer on a vintage frame, chances are you’ll need to spread the rear dropouts to accommodate the extra axle width.
If you have fresh paint and find yourself alone, Neanderthal methods may not be the best course of action.
This little tool works like a charm and you probably have the parts just lying around.

Parts needed:
1 axle
2 axle nuts
2 seat clamp halves
and a chunk of 2-3” of some fat hose or rubber cut in half to protect your paint.

With the wheel in position, preferably with the bike upside down, simply slide the assembly between the chain stays and between the spokes and snug it up by hand, checking to make sure its seated correctly to prevent any damage to your paint.

Next, turn the nuts with an open end wrench, equally on both sides.
Eventually the rear dropouts spread the necessary width and the rear axle slides effortlessly into place.

Now, simply loosen the axle nuts and carefully remove assembly.
No stress and best of all, no paint damage!

 

[AndyA]

Uncle Shish:
Your tool is nice because you can leave it in place while you fit the hub. The tool I've used goes in the dropouts and needs to be removed to try the hub. It's 3/8" threaded rod with some washers and nuts.
Keep up the good work.

 

[Uncle Shish]

Uncle Shish:
Your tool is nice because you can leave it in place while you fit the hub. The tool I've used goes in the dropouts and needs to be removed to try the hub. It's 3/8" threaded rod with some washers and nuts.
Keep up the good work.
View attachment 93849

Thanks for complimenting my tool

Seriously, though. Yes, it is nice in the fact that you can use it with the wheel in place. Before I added the rubber and the seat bracket pieces, I did it similar to your method but I often had the problem that it didn't stay spread once the tool was removed.

I've learned so much and been so inspired by so many members here, it feels good to be able to give back in some way.

 

[Indyjps]

Sweet, seat guts idea is a good one. Could use some cut up tire or inner tube as well to cushion.

 

[Uncle Shish]

Sweet, seat guts idea is a good one. Could use some cut up tire or inner tube as well to cushion.

Absolutely on the tire or tube idea! I just happened to have the hose lying around as well as the seat parts.
Something is needed to offset the axle so it isn't grinding the threads along the frame and the seat parts work pretty good.
I'm sure the entire tool could be perfected and refined but it works like a champ as-is and any bicycle builder most likely has the parts on-hand.
I hope it proves to be useful for you.

 

[Captain Awesome]

I know, I know ... there are many ways to accomplish this same feat!

If you like to run internal gear multi-speed hubs such as the Nexus or Sturmey Archer on a vintage frame, chances are you’ll need to spread the rear dropouts to accommodate the extra axle width.
If you have fresh paint and find yourself alone, Neanderthal methods may not be the best course of action.
This little tool works like a charm and you probably have the parts just lying around.
View attachment 93685
Parts needed:
1 axle
2 axle nuts
2 seat clamp halves
and a chunk of 2-3” of some fat hose or rubber cut in half to protect your paint.

With the wheel in position, preferably with the bike upside down, simply slide the assembly between the chain stays and between the spokes and snug it up by hand, checking to make sure its seated correctly to prevent any damage to your paint.

View attachment 93686
Next, turn the nuts with an open end wrench, equally on both sides.
Eventually the rear dropouts spread the necessary width and the rear axle slides effortlessly into place.
View attachment 93688
Now, simply loosen the axle nuts and carefully remove assembly.
No stress and best of all, no paint damage!
View attachment 93689

And off to the hardware store I go.......

 

[Uncle Shish]

And off to the hardware store I go.......

Just a heads up ... the threaded rod needs to be an axle, or at least have threads that move opposite of each other ...

 

[Klunkruiser]

Thanks for the ideas.

I'm about to try and stuff this Nexus 8

into this not so vintage Schwinn.

Appears to my eyeball about a half inch(13mm?) difference. Might take more drastic measures?
Will be my first time lacing a wheel also. Some takeoff Araya 26x1.75.
I'll do some more ratrod research.

 

[Wildcat]

Looks good!

I see another advantage to your invention. When I have spread the dropouts the hard way, they usually don't line up flush with the new hub. With your spreader, you could open the stays, without the wheel on there, then use something like a big adjustable wrench to align the drops so they would be exactly flush with the new axle. Then take it out, replace the wheel and you don't have a problem with the width returning to the original size.

 

[deorman]

Just a heads up ... the threaded rod needs to be an axle, or at least have threads that move opposite of each other ...

Actually works with all-thread, just make sure you turn the nuts in opposite directions.

 

[Uncle Shish]

Thanks for the ideas.

I'm about to try and stuff this Nexus 8
View attachment 97821
into this not so vintage Schwinn.
View attachment 97823
Appears to my eyeball about a half inch(13mm?) difference. Might take more drastic measures?
Will be my first time lacing a wheel also. Some takeoff Araya 26x1.75.
I'll do some more ratrod research.

I stuffed a Nexus 7 into a Schinn B6 frame successfully.

 

[Klunkruiser]

I stuffed a Nexus 7 into a Schinn B6 frame successfully.
View attachment 98061

And with a coaster brake too!
Wish mine had a coaster brake.

Anyway...I was reading Sheldon Brown, and he said I could just loose a few pieces off the left side, and use a thinner nut, and save quite a few millimeters.
But I'd like to keep the dust cap. So I may try grinding it down a bit. If I can just get half way there...