It actually does not have to be expensive if you are handy with a welder...
Just grab two matching chainwheels, weld one to each crank arm, either build a dual thread hub out of two normal hub drive ends or buy a flip flop, you should move your bottom bracket across a little, but it is not by much and you probably could get away with not doing it. Two matching single speed freewheels, must be the same brand and tooth count, thread the normal side one on normally and the other one backwards, add a little loctite to its threads or place a tack weld between it and the thread once it is on. Ensure your two chains are identical length and brand, you can not get away with one new and one old, it just does not work and you will end up with one side slacker than the other.
I run no extra tensioners, have no chain slack issues, the wheel does up straight in the frame, there is no wierd noises or grabbing and it sounds great on the overrun when freewheeling due to them both clicking away...
P3090010 by LukeTheJoker, on Flickr
Paxti is right about the weird harmonics between the cranks when pedalling super fast but I really don't notice it much when riding, if you hold the bike up by the front wheel and spin the cranks the bike will flail around like crazy though! :shock:
Really there is no benefit to it, it actually must add drag in reality, but it sure does look awesome and sounds great on the overrun! :mrgreen:
Luke.
Just grab two matching chainwheels, weld one to each crank arm, either build a dual thread hub out of two normal hub drive ends or buy a flip flop, you should move your bottom bracket across a little, but it is not by much and you probably could get away with not doing it. Two matching single speed freewheels, must be the same brand and tooth count, thread the normal side one on normally and the other one backwards, add a little loctite to its threads or place a tack weld between it and the thread once it is on. Ensure your two chains are identical length and brand, you can not get away with one new and one old, it just does not work and you will end up with one side slacker than the other.
I run no extra tensioners, have no chain slack issues, the wheel does up straight in the frame, there is no wierd noises or grabbing and it sounds great on the overrun when freewheeling due to them both clicking away...
P3090010 by LukeTheJoker, on Flickr
Paxti is right about the weird harmonics between the cranks when pedalling super fast but I really don't notice it much when riding, if you hold the bike up by the front wheel and spin the cranks the bike will flail around like crazy though! :shock:
Really there is no benefit to it, it actually must add drag in reality, but it sure does look awesome and sounds great on the overrun! :mrgreen:
Luke.
