Huffy Amazonian Retro Racer...... why not?

[Dinosaur_Monkey]

Posted the beginnings of this in intros since I'm a noob

https://ratrodbikes.com/forum/threa...-for-a-trash-huffy.113873/page-2#post-1178833
I figured I'd continue the build here since it made more sense.

What I started with :

A neglected huffy *Good Vibrations* cruiser.. Dry rotted tires, gel seat, but good bones. Orifinal plan was a ape hanger-ed banana seat-ed flat black rat bike but you can see I took a heavy detour. The paint on the frame and fork was SUPER NICE... I couldn't f*ck with that. I REALLY wanted to use local/area bike shops for parts, but mostly due to my impatience and lack of supply I hit Amazon (hence the name).

Everything came from Amazon....

Fat Frank tires
Upanbike bullhorns
Lowrider lean back seat post
Threadless stem adapter
Retro seat and matching grip wrap

Still waiting on pedals, aaaand I'll probably GRAB a chrome front sprocket, one piece crank, and kickstand because I CAN'T STOP!!!

But for the most part she's done.. A couple minor hurdles I encountered :

Threadless adapter was 1".....huffy required 7/8'...or something slightly smaller... Some judicious grinding on the stem solved that issue.
.

Lowrider seat post was too small - needed a shim of sorts... Cut down the factory seat post, slotted it, POOF everything snugged up just fine.

I really like the geometry of this bike... I'm 6'0 and that lowrider seat post stretches the cockpit out nicely, and gets me a little higher than the factory one.

Now I'm trying to talk my neighbor out of his 80's puegot road bike so I can do up a fixie bike. Heh heh...

 

[toro1978]

The threadless adapter is usually 22 mm. However 1" threaded fork could mean 22 or also 21 mm internal diameter of the shaft.
I don't go to my local bike shop anymore. They don't have what I need and if they can order it it takes at least a week to arrive (from their own warehouse). Internet gives me a lot more choices, faster delivery and the chance to score cool old parts.

 

[Dinosaur_Monkey]

The threadless adapter is usually 22 mm. However 1" threaded fork could mean 22 or also 21 mm internal diameter of the shaft.
I don't go to my local bike shop anymore. They don't have what I need and if they can order it it takes at least a week to arrive (from their own warehouse). Internet gives me a lot more choices, faster delivery and the chance to score cool old parts.

Interesting... YAY for multiple standards of measurement!

And yeah.... Sad but true about the local shops

 

[toro1978]

However I remember that I have an aluminum and a steel adapter and they are both 22 mm - there are writings on them - and indeed the one did not fit. Luckily it was the aluminum so I could remove easily some material. It didn't take much.

 

[Dinosaur_Monkey]

However I remember that I have an aluminum and a steel adapter and they are both 22 mm - there are writings on them - and indeed the one did not fit. Luckily it was the aluminum so I could remove easily some material. It didn't take much.

Nope.... Maybe 10 minutes on the bench grinder

 

[Dinosaur_Monkey]

She's done! Got the last bits in the mail this weekend... 46T Chrome front sprocket, chrome crank and fresh BB bearing and cup set... Grabbed a new chain too since the factory one was a couple links too short and wasn't shiny enough

Did the math and I spent just under $250....only original parts left are the frame, fork, wheels and head tube bearing assembly... Everything else is straight off Amazon.

Now I just get to ride it aaaaaaaaand keep my eyes peeled for the next project

 

[JaxRhapsody]

I always wondered what a cruiser would look like with bull bars, one or two people either here or bikeforums said it wouldn't look right. You've sold me on the idea, sir, I think my bullbars might just go back to my DB Drifter1, instead of the Schwinn Link roadster build!

I don't know why they stopped putting those spaded forks on bikes, the forks on cruisers nowadays are ugly.

 

[Tallbikeman]

Your adaptation and rebuild is really nice. A lot of the parts on really cheap foreign import bikes are of poor quality. Your changing them out turned this into a nice riding, good looking, durable bicycle. As far as spaded forks are concerned they are made by a completely different process than the tubular forks that are on this project. Bladed forks were forged using a hammer and patterns, then welded or brazed, not sure, to the head tube. Schwinn bladed forks are very strong, but heavy, because they are solid steel through and through. The "hammer" is a very large piece of equipment that weighs in the tons and is operated by a foot pedal. Very cool to see a hammer making steel parts. By the way making the bladed forks this way is a very fast way to make a durable part. Speed of manufacture was probably the reason for this build method. Good luck on your next project because there is always room for one more.

 

[Dinosaur_Monkey]

Thanks it does feel really solid... Trying to get used to the coaster brake again - I've been on mountain bikes too long. I did spy a cool fixie at a thrift shop but it was way too small for me...

Haven't been riding lately though because it's been DAMN HOT here in Southern Florida