i cant wait to get rid of my chevy

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im buying a volvo so i dont have to put up with this crap
vdK37.jpg
 
Good Luck. I hang out with my best friend from High School. He does Volvo service in a private shop. I guarantee you I'd rather buy parts for, and fix a Chevy. Call around and get an estimate for a brake job for the Volvo you are wanting to buy. All cars break, the more exotic they are, the more they cost to fix. Volvo's are not an especially easy car to work on.
 
If you let your brake pads wear out, they will eat the rotors, no matter what kind of car you drive.
I have a 2001 Chevy Lumina with 280000+ miles on the original drivetrain, and as an ex mechanic,(for a taxi company) I can tell you these Chevies, ay least, are solid cars IF properly maintained.
There's no such thing as amaintenance free car
 
Art said:
If you let your brake pads wear out, they will eat the rotors, no matter what kind of car you drive.
I have a 2001 Chevy Lumina with 280000+ miles on the original drivetrain, and as an ex mechanic,(for a taxi company) I can tell you these Chevies, ay least, are solid cars IF properly maintained.
There's no such thing as amaintenance free car
actually it was maintained if it wasnt for the money i wouldve had my mechanic look at it. come to find out it was their failt the float bolts were seized because they werent greased.

jerry my cousin drives a 240 wagon its seen the shop less times than my truck has
 
their failt the float bolts were seized because they werent greased.
/quote]

This is where doing it yourself so you know its done right comes into play :D[/quote]


I concur. Then you only have yourself to blame when you lose your brakes.


no srsly!

Took my car in to get wheel bearing fixed under warranty, they hadn't torqued the lower caliper bolt tight. caliper swung off rotor when coming of the free way trying to slow down. Had to use e-brake to limp car home and the inside of my bbs rim was all scratched. ger. But they did give me a free engine under warranty so I didn't hold it against them.
 
To each his own, and my "Good LucK" was meant to be sincere.

My buddy and I have always been car guys, he has made his living at it his entire career. He has long worked for shops that do "secondary" maintenance, basically almost everything, but primarily focusing on basic service of European and Japanese high end cars. You don't take your Mercedes to Jiffy Lube for instance. These shops are everywhere, and usually charge 1/2 what the dealers charge. They get a loyal following from the driver who is cost aware, but still wants to own and drive an upscale car.

These shops are slowly being "forced" out of business by the very nature of the new luxury cars. There is so much technology built into them today, that the little shops cannot maintain the required training and expensive technology on the maintenance side that "plugs" in to the car for diagnostics, etc. The dealers ultimately win, and their costs are going up rapidly in order to be able to service their own brands. Guess who pays?

We have long joked that we'd both love to have a BMW M3, but if someone were to give us one, neither one of us could afford to own it! :D

The shop he works for now specializes in Volvos. His own choice of transportation: -- A Chevy pickup. His wife drives a late model Miata. To each his own of course.
 
Highridah said:
Art said:
If you let your brake pads wear out, they will eat the rotors, no matter what kind of car you drive.
I have a 2001 Chevy Lumina with 280000+ miles on the original drivetrain, and as an ex mechanic,(for a taxi company) I can tell you these Chevies, ay least, are solid cars IF properly maintained.
There's no such thing as amaintenance free car
actually it was maintained if it wasnt for the money i wouldve had my mechanic look at it. come to find out it was their failt the float bolts were seized because they werent greased.

jerry my cousin drives a 240 wagon its seen the shop less times than my truck has

See? The MECHANICS fault, not the car's. If you buy a Volvo and take it to these yoyos they'll screw that up, too.
You need a new mechanic
Brakes are simple, this coul've been done, better, in your own driveway, when the brakes started grinding, before the rotors were ate up
 
as funny as it sounds i can work on Volvos lol especially 240s and pre Ford era ones, the grinding stared 2 weeks ago i cant blame my mechanic last time he touched the brakes was in 06 i only bring it to him when i have engine issues that are electrical in nature.
 
I'm guessing you got the car second or third hand, and will be doing the same with the Volvo. If your pads get thin the caliper piston can get cocked in the bore, the older the caliper, the higher the chances of that happening, doesn't matter if it's made in Michigan, Sweden, Korea or where ever.
 
Yeah I'm with Jerrykr on this one Chevys are easier to fix. Not to mention no matter what junkyard you go to you can find Chevy parts or something GM that will be interchangeable.


"This is where doing it yourself so you know its done right comes into play"

+1 Buy a Chilton manual for it and do your own maintenance, Mine saved me LOTS of money over the years. Or if all else fails get a VW, If you can fix a lawn mower you can fix a VW they are that simple and parts are cheap. Preferably a VW Diesel.
 
grandad always said "if it has :shock: or wheels, its gonna cause you problems and cost you money" however, with proper care, things with :shock: or wheels give the most pleasure. and these days, rotors are made from such cheap metal i think the pads could outlast them.
 
Chevy truck disc brakes are simple a stone hammer; two bolts to remove and install, and a big c clamp to push the pison back in.
Hey, if you want a Volvo, get one, it's your money, your butt ridin in it, and ultimately your satisfaction or lack thereof, but don't talk a chevy down because it developed a brake problem after 5 years of neglect. (you said they were serviced in 06, I believe)
Like I said before if you don't maintain it, any car will go to crap.
Brakes should be checked every oil change (takes like five seconds on a lift, honestly) and any time you hear the sound of the great barrier reef, if you don't take a look you're asking for trouble
 
my work car, which sees 95% highway miles, gets the tires rotated every 5000 miles. pretty hard to NOT check the brakes (and tie rods, ball joints, other regular wear) items at this time. im not trying to rip on you for lack of maintnance, cause we're all negligent sometimes, im just saying thats why its called preventive maintenance.
 
Art said:
Chevy truck disc brakes are simple a stone hammer; two bolts to remove and install, and a big c clamp to push the pison back in.
Hey, if you want a Volvo, get one, it's your money, your butt ridin in it, and ultimately your satisfaction or lack thereof, but don't talk a chevy down because it developed a brake problem after 5 years of neglect. (you said they were serviced in 06, I believe)
Like I said before if you don't maintain it, any car will go to crap.
Brakes should be checked every oil change (takes like five seconds on a lift, honestly) and any time you hear the sound of the great barrier reef, if you don't take a look you're asking for trouble
you could say that about older chevies, the rear brake system comes off in 3 pieces and not a well designed one even my mechanic told me its the worst of the gm disc brake set ups next to the killer brembos cobalts have.

Deorman im the second owner but i bought the truck when it was 5 months old so she was still very new.
 
I've generally been a fan of GM's passenger cars, but when it comes to serviceable trucks, Ford cleans their clock and then eats their lunch. :p IMO, of course. :mrgreen:
 
Well bottom line is there's always something better out there, but without proper maintanance it'll fall apart sooner or later. Ford might be better than Chevy but you can't beat an International old or new.

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International_CXT.jpg
 
I've met folks who rip on Chevies, and folks who rip on Fords, and I'll be the first to say GM doesn't always do the best design,(nor does Ford, nor Dodge, nor Volvo) but these brakes failed from lack of grease on the floaters. That's a maintenance issue. What abou the design makes them hard to work on? The only disc brake setup I ever met that was very difficult to work on was 80s Audi rear discs, and those only because they were inboard (just outside the pumpkin) and you had to take the whole rear end apart to get the rotors off, and that includes some pretty high end vehicles with full floating six piston calipers.
Anti Lock Brakes bite the big one to work on, period, but that's across the board. Other than that it's a simple hydroulic system, and if it's such a bad design, how'd it last through five years of neglect?
Just about any brakes suck compared to Brembos, That's comparing a Sig-Sauer to a Tuarus.
 
Outskirt I love those Corn Binders, but the one my wife owned (bought brand new) burned up the tranny in 7 months, the second time it was used to WORK (pulling one round bale of hay, which a beat up old Ford a freind of mine had'll do all day long) so International's aren't perfect, either.
They are way cool, though
 
BUY AMERICAN

I can print out an ASE certification on my printer and frame it on the wall like the vocational school dropouts at my local repaire places.

I forgot more than they will ever know.

There are stories that goes along with this...sad but true

RANT OFF.
 
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