I'm at my wits' end...

[Jimmy the Gent]

I'm rebuilding a hub; as shown here:

http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=53878

(Actually; "rebuilding" is misleading, more like re-assembling)

I have followed the steps to the letter; and I still can't seem to get it right. If I adjust it so there's no play; it drags considerably. If I adjust it so the wheel turns/spins properly; there's waaaay too much play.

I've lost count how many times I've tried to get it right; dis-assembling, cleaning, and re-assembling. I even assembled it dry - and it worked fine - but I didn't leave it that way, for obvious reasons.

I get the feeling that I'm missing something shockingly simple; but my judgement is so clouded at this point; I'm stuck.

Anyone else been through this? I'm ready to swear off coaster brakes FOREVER.

 

[Mastec]

I had the same problem as you. I don't know if what I did was the right way or not but it worked for me. I tightened everything up to the point where the wheel just started to drag. Installed the wheel and tightened all the nuts. I then spun the wheel forwards and backwards to loosen it up and it seemed to work, that was 2 months ago. I still have no play in the wheel and it spins free with no drag.

Like I said, I don't know if it's right but it worked for me.

 

[Crassly]

This may sound dumb, but you do have the thin locking nuts on each end right? Once you get the play set, you have to "lock" your adjustment by tightening the lock nut while holding the cone so it can't move.

 

[Mastec]

In my case yes the locking nuts are there but they didn't help keep everything tight and don't know why. After what seemed like a hundred tries I tried what I posted and it worked. There is no play in the wheel to this day.

 

[Wildcat]

I looked and didn't see what grease you are using, but even the good stuff needs to be worked in and may be a little sticky at first. I add some 30 weight along with grease to get it going. I'm usually trying to get a very worn one working. I usually can get a lot more life out of them if they are lubed and adjusted just right. I redid a Bendix tandem hub that acted like yours, wouldn't roll well when adjusted correctly. After adding some light 30 weight oil, it's the best one speed hub I have. It works great on the Ratty Caddy. Same guts as a regular Bendix one speed.

 

[Jimmy the Gent]

I looked and didn't see what grease you are using, but even the good stuff needs to be worked in and may be a little sticky at first. I add some 30 weight along with grease to get it going. I'm usually trying to get a very worn one working. I usually can get a lot more life out of them if they are lubed and adjusted just right. I redid a Bendix tandem hub that acted like yours, wouldn't roll well when adjusted correctly. After adding some light 30 weight oil, it's the best one speed hub I have. It works great on the Ratty Caddy. Same guts as a regular Bendix one speed.

That's a sweet bike!!

This post got me thinking that I may have too much grease; and the wrong kind. I'm using grease that's normally used for spline shafts in hydraulic equipment that typically is in the 800-1000 RPM range.


I'm in the process of cleaning and reassembling the hub. I'm going to use a lot less grease; and try a touch of 30W oil. I'll post an update...

 

[Jimmy the Gent]

I give up...


I've been messing with this for two weeks...still drags.

Freewheel; here I come...


I'd rather have a bike without brakes than no bike at all.

 

[Jpromo]

It almost sounds like the grease you're using may be too heavy if it's for heavy, high RPM machinery. If it's too thick and tacky, then it would prevent the shoes from sliding properly. Also, just lightly coat the inside of the hub where the shoes would go, just enough so it's not metal on metal.

I'd send you a rebuilt Bendix if I had one lying around!

 

[Jimmy the Gent]

It almost sounds like the grease you're using may be too heavy if it's for heavy, high RPM machinery. If it's too thick and tacky, then it would prevent the shoes from sliding properly. Also, just lightly coat the inside of the hub where the shoes would go, just enough so it's not metal on metal.

I'd send you a rebuilt Bendix if I had one lying around!

Thanks for the offer! Nice to know someone feels my pain....

That's what I'm thinking....I think I need to start from scratch; clean all the parts, and reassemble using different grease. What type of grease would you recommend...and where do I get it?

 

[CCR]

white lithium grease works fine

 

[Jimmy the Gent]

This is what I meant by "clouded judgement"

white lithium grease works fine

I completely forgot about this.

 

[Jpromo]

I feel your pain. Those simple things that just give you so much trouble and leave you scratching your head.

I've got a 30s Elgin that's been torn down for at least 6 months because the fork has given me grief. Original was bent beyond repair so I bought one from a short-tenured Cabe member and the fork had been previously cobbled together and the steer tube was bent (sideways?!) and had to be shortened. Had to buy a fork die, threaded it. Then I overworked the metal in the tube and it split when I was bending it. Now it's waiting for a family member to return the welder. I hope they never return it so I don't have to look at that fork again.

 

[Jimmy the Gent]

I feel your pain. Those simple things that just give you so much trouble and leave you scratching your head.

I've got a 30s Elgin that's been torn down for at least 6 months because the fork has given me grief. Original was bent beyond repair so I bought one from a short-tenured Cabe member and the fork had been previously cobbled together and the steer tube was bent (sideways?!) and had to be shortened. Had to buy a fork die, threaded it. Then I overworked the metal in the tube and it split when I was bending it. Now it's waiting for a family member to return the welder. I hope they never return it so I don't have to look at that fork again.

That's exactly it. It makes me second-guess myself; and what skills I do have, which makes it all the more frustrating. Another thing which adds to it is the fact that I haven't been able to ride in three weeks. I want to get it up and running so I can start building my (at least) 5-speed surprise... 8). I'm trying to finish one project - that should have never been a "project" - to start another. Details to come.... 8)

I hope you get that Elgin up and running; whatever way you can....

I just ordered this:

We'll see how it goes....


(I paid the extra freight to get it tomorrow; so grease better be the culprit...)

 

[Wildcat]

I use regular all purpose grease, it comes in a tub for 3 or 4 dollars.

As for projects that run into sticking points, I leave them and come back a few days (or weeks) later and find them much easier to get done.

 

[Jimmy the Gent]

As for projects that run into sticking points, I leave them and come back a few days (or weeks) later and find them much easier to get done.

That's a good point - knowing when to walk away....


I tried it with no success; but I know what it is to be patient.

 

[Jimmy the Gent]

My grease syringe came today; so here I go again.... 8)

 

[Bloodyknuckles]

''I've lost count how many times I've tried to get it right; dis-assembling, cleaning, and re-assembling. I even assembled it dry - and it worked fine - but I didn't leave it that way, for obvious reasons'' quote

This may be your problem. You're on the right track by changing lube type.

 

[Jimmy the Gent]

I think I've got it right. I cleaned and re-greased the hub with the new grease. I also re-assembled it......it seems okay so far, but I need to test-ride it.

 

[deorman]

The exploded view doesn't really make the brake-side bearing installation all that clear. Maybe it wasn't falling into the slot properly, and yes, overly thick hi-temp grease can make them sluggish. :| Good luck. :wink:

 

[Jimmy the Gent]

A (somewhat late) update.


I tried; I really did. I got it as close as I could; and I've been riding it.

...until it came loose with waaaaay too much play.

Now; I'm going to try adjusting it with the bike sitting upright; as opposed to upside-down. I also forgot to mention that I found a wrench in my dad's toolbox which is at least 60 years old that just happens to be a perfect cone wrench.....for all I know, that's what it is.

A pic:

Comparison:

"Luck wishes" would be appreciated... 8)

Edited to add:

I just tried it; and I'm getting warmer, but there's still a problem.

So; I have a question:

What order to the washers go on the axle? Is there supposed to be one between the nut for cone adjustment and the lock-nut? As it stands; there's no way I can adjust the cone properly without causing the wrench to become stuck, due to the tightening of the lock-nut. Did I explain that sufficiently?


Time for a test-ride (more coffee).