Klunkers......Bikes, build techniques and ideas, Things that go klunk !

[deorman]

They do wear out. Also some hubs will let you put the shoes in backwards.

 

[gowjobs]

They do wear out. Also some hubs will let you put the shoes in backwards.

You have to buy them a really nice dinner first, though.

 

[SILVERKINGPC]

Coaster brakes really are pretty weak. Small surface areas, too much grease, and the "on-off" nature of them is problematic. In the flats and for cruising, they work ok, but the long descents or need to stop fast reveal their shortcomings. It is just one of those things we sort of have to ignore when ratting older bikes. The front drum brakes shown on the above Klunkers were used to up the braking power a tad bit more, and it helped, but they still were not that strong compared to the cantis or discs of today. I have had so many close calls on my coaster-equipped bikes I can't count them any more, many times sacrificing myself and/or my bike to avoid disaster...

 

[gowjobs]

Coaster brakes really are pretty weak. Small surface areas, too much grease, and the "on-off" nature of them is problematic.

I agree. I definitely ride differently off road with a CB-equipped bike than with something with more substanstial braking capabilities. As with a drum brake-equipped car, it's basically, "Brake once. Brake hard. Brake quickly." There's no finessing a coaster brake - you lock it with with one foot, put the other one on the ground, and slide the bike sideways.

 

[jamesdart]

I have a couple Bendix and the braking has a nice soIid feel but they don't stop for anything compared to the newer shimano or KT.

 

[Bicycle808]

I have a couple Bendix and the braking has a nice soIid feel but they don't stop for anything compared to the newer shimano or KT.

I agree. Bendix RedBands and 70s/76s are attaining cult-status among many in the neo-klunk movement, but they really don't stop that well. They are less prone to mechanical failure than the current cb-e110/KT HiStop clones (the clutch spring is a common Achille's heel), but if you really ride trails on coasters, you'll have a donor hub or 2 to swap in whenever something poops the bed.... and it will. Finding parts for Bendix is still very possible, but the Shimano cb-e110 parts are truly ubiquitous, especially when we factor in the fact that all parts interchange between the Shimano Cb-e110 an the singlespeed KT coasters...

 

[us56456712]

 

[Wildcat]

I used a yellow band 2 speed Bendix on my 71 Varsity klunker, I thought the brakes were ok, they work off the low gear.

Then I tried the new SRAM 2 speed auto on my foreign klunker in the Philippines. It also had decent brakes, but it would shift to high early if it hit a bump. It has centrifugal weights that shift the gears. I didn't get a chance to ride it enough to see how well the hub could stand up to a beating.

So I would recommend an extra brake either front or rear for more stopping power.

 

[Bicycle808]

I love the idea of the SRAM Auto, and t's got a strong coaster built-in, but i feel pretty sure that the auto-shifting offroad would be terrible

 

[Wildcat]

I love the idea of the SRAM Auto, and t's got a strong coaster built-in, but i feel pretty sure that the auto-shifting offroad would be terrible

Right, on rough roads too. Any bump will throw it into high gear. If you're already in high, no problem, but usually you will be in low in rough spots. I would just stop pedaling, let it drop back into low, and continue. It uses weights that swing out using the centrifugal force of the hub turning, so there's no way to correct the problem.
I still like the auto, but would use a kickback 2 speed for offroad riding.

 

[Bicycle808]

Right, on rough roads too. Any bump will throw it into high gear. If you're already in high, no problem, but usually you will be in low in rough spots. I would just stop pedaling, let it drop back into low, and continue. It uses weights that swing out using the centrifugal force of the hub turning, so there's no way to correct the problem.
I still like the auto, but would use a kickback 2 speed for offroad riding.

In my experience, using a kickback coaster offroad involves a bit of a learning curve; eventually, you get used to double-braking, to stay in whatever gear you were in, but you probably won't be awesome at it until after a few rides. Kickback hubs with rim brakes seem more intuitive, to me, offroad... but even then, you might inadvertently shift while coasting and changing pedal position to achieve better weight distribution.... Eventually, you learn to make adjustments like that via forward pedaling, but i'd learned opposite habits on singlespeed MTBs

 

[G-Matt]

My 1941 Hiawatha frame with a straight bmx stile fork with reinforced welds . Sturmy Archer drum break & di comp lever . 3 speed nexus . Three piece crank conversation . Chop saw 39 tooth chain ring . Sealed bearings in the head tube. Kenda k-Rad 26x2.3 tires . Brooks professional saddle Mr. Tick hand made bars. Great ride & can take a beating .

I do recommended the sealed head tub bearings what a difference so much smother . Also the thee piece crank & sealed bb is great . The 3 speed nexus is hard to beat .

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