Kona Cafe'

[Klunkruiser]

'97 Kona AA Mountain Shock is the base to this build. A nice lightweight frame built from Easton 7005 aluminum tubes.

Bought this bike a few months ago with 27.2 seatpost stuck in a 27.0 hole, shot bottom bracket, broken shifters, frayed/rusted shift cables, mangled cable guide on top tube, and Mavic wheels replaced with the black steel rimmed wheels shown.

Had started a build thread with SS BMX cruiser in mind. But so far have just removed the seat and seatpost, chain, crank, cable guides from the top tube, along with cables, shifters, and deraileurs.

This is how it sits now. Except with the springs back in the fork. So a little taller in the front.

I have accumulated a few parts: new bottom bracket, and BMX stem. And when it's all said and done, I'll be able to swap wheelsets and seat, along with stem and bars, in a matter of minutes, for a multi-purpose bike.

For the MBBO, it'll be cast as a cafe racer of sorts.

 

[kingfish254]

Cool base with a bold flavor.

 

[Klunkruiser]

Cool base with a bold flavor.

Love me some Hawaiian coffee!

 

[OddJob]

Kona is famous for their use of volcano names for their models. Perhaps 'Lava Java' might fit your caffeinated cafe build?

 

[Klunkruiser]

Kona is famous for their use of volcano names for their models. Perhaps 'Lava Java' might fit your caffeinated cafe build?

That's a good one!

 

[MattiThundrrr]

The company is from Washington and British Columbia. I guess there were no mountains there that they could use the names of...

 

[Klunkruiser]

The company is from Washington and British Columbia. I guess there were no mountains there that they could use the names of...

A mountain in Washington?
It's not Japanese...

Besides, Tacoma Cafe doesn't have the same ring to it.

 

[Klunkruiser]

Today I centered the hub on one of the rear wheels that I have for this bike. This particular wheel was previously set up with a 6-speed freewheel, and will be a single speed.

This one is an Araya 7x 26x1.75 with Suzue low flange. Appears to be sealed bearing.

Still need to polish it up a bit. Mainly the spokes.

My first time attempting this.
Loosed the drive side 1.5 turns, and somehow tightened the other side 2.5 turns before the spokes started to get close to the desired tension.

Looks pretty even by the eyeball so far.
Still need to figure out the magic gear before I buy the ss freewheel.

 

[OddJob]

Even though you are setting this up SS, this hub and wheel combination is still designed to have "dish", meaning the drive side is a much flatter profile than the non-drive side. That's probably why you had the uneven spoke tension if you tried to get both sides to look the same.

The flatter drive side is to accommodate the cassette or freewheel in your case, so that it lines up with the drive train and the front chain ring properly.

Check to see if your rim is centered between the locknuts.

If you already know all this, please disregard!

 

[Klunkruiser]

Even though you are setting this up SS, this hub and wheel combination is still designed to have "dish", meaning the drive side is a much flatter profile than the non-drive side. That's probably why you had the uneven spoke tension if you tried to get both sides to look the same.

The flatter drive side is to accommodate the cassette or freewheel in your case, so that it lines up with the drive train and the front chain ring properly.

View attachment 106842

Check to see if your rim is centered between the locknuts.

If you already know all this, please disregard!

Thanks for the tutorial!

I've had a rim with offset spoke holes before.
Will have to double check when I get home, but I believe this particular rim, while having spoke holes that are side specific, does not have spoke holes offset more to one side than the other.
And of course with a single speed freewheel screwed on, and eliminating the deraileur, the hub would have to be centered to get proper chain alignment and tire clearance.

I'll have to get new spacers, as the wheel was originally set up with a 6-speed freewheel and the drive side spacer is much larger than the other. They will likely need to be very close in size, if not the same, now.

Edit: I have just now realized that when re-dishing the wheel, I have made the whole axle offset. Hopefully there is a way to center the axle.
Am reading up on re-dishing now.

Found this helpful link right here on RRB, https://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/help-a-beginner-redish-a-wheel.56113/

Which led me to this helpful link. Scan down to "Option B. Re-Space/Re-Dish" http://www.63xc.com/dennb/redish.htm


The cassette type hubs would be much simpler to convert, with just spacers needed to align the rear sprocket.

I also have a high flange freewheel Nexus-3 that I plan to lace up for this bike as soon as I decide what rim I want it in.

This one will probably be best for the cafe' racer setup.
Thinking about running the 26x2.35 Crazy Bob up front, and a 26x2.50 Kenda K-Rad in the back.

 

[OddJob]

If you are going to run that Internal hub in the rear, that's a whole 'nuther thing. Check Sheldon Brown's site for setting up rear INT hubs.

 

[Klunkruiser]

If you are going to run that Internal hub in the rear, that's a whole 'nuther thing. Check Sheldon Brown's site for setting up rear INT hubs.

Thanks. I certainly will.

Yes, I most likely will use that 3-speed on this bike. I plan to have a couple or three wheelsets (with all the same sprocket size. And different tires) that I can swap onto this bike to change it's abilities to whatever terrain I'll be traversing at the time.
The 3-speed with faster rolling tires will be the road setup.
And a single speed with knobbier tires for trail riding.

Hoping for a magic gear somewhere in the 32 to 18 range. A little low, but I'll be able to do a little off-road elevation gain with the single speed setup.

I know the 3-speed may end up with a little lower gearing than I might like for on-road top speed. But it should be a capable climber with a comfortable/if lazy second gear. Third should still be a bit overdrive.

Then again, I could always hope for the unlikely scenario of finding "two" magic gears and have "two" separate chains. And run the 4-speed with it's 1:1 first gear at a 32 and 22 or 23, to lower the ratio for more climbing ability on-road.
I think I may put my 700c 8-speed on my buildoff-14 bike. Which would free up the Nexus-4 wheelset.

 

[Klunkruiser]

Small update on the cafe' racer build.

Here's my seat and support material options so far, on what will likely be a very short cafe' racer style "banana seat". Mostly flat with just a touch of lift at the back.

The adjustable aluminum struts are from this contraption.

They are about 9/16" diameter and not absolutely sure if they'd be strong enough. But maybe. They are threaded inside though, and I was hoping to find a yoke/fork type end that would fit around the frame for a full bolt through, instead of beside it, for extra strength.

The other thing is a carbon fiber bow stabilizer called a Doinker, that they gave to me at the pawn shop. It's too long as is. And not sure it would be long enough if cut in half, as I have yet to measure it. And not sure I could find appropriate ends to bond to it if it was long enough.
There's also some galvanized steel options from an old swingset that I will only use on this bike as a last resort.

I had originally wanted to use the snowboard for the seat, but am now leaning towards one of the smaller skateboards so I could more easily use the trucks for the top/rear support mount. The aluminum strut ends look like a perfect fit on the trucks, or close enough.

I have some heavy black vynil, but it is shiny and I wanted something more satin finish. So when I remember I'm keeping an eye out for some heavy black or brown naugahyde luggage from the thrift store to repurpose.
Or have considered a heavy saddle type leather since I would only need a small piece. But sewing such leather would probably have to be done by hand as I don't have an industrial sewing machine at my disposal.

The life vest will be cut for a thin layer of padding. Unless I use the thick leather and feel I don't need it.

Guess I should go ahead and cut one of these up.

 

[Klunkruiser]

Now considering a 1" supported layback seatpost that would possibly allow me to use the snowboard with no rear supports.
Or I think I have some stainless steel folding boat canopy stuff around somewhere.

 

[sdframe]

I really like the idea of using a lightweight mountain bike frame as a basis for a muscle bike. I'll watch this with great interest.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Wow, that thing is verging on "weight weenie" light! Been doing some research, and I'm starting to lean more towards Kona, away from Specialized!

Still not convinced about your seat concept though

 

[Klunkruiser]

Yeah guys I'm sorry I haven't made much progress yet. I have most of the parts....maybe, until I find some better parts. And need to get to building the seat.
But I've been distracted by my work schedule and a football game here and there. And adding to/ modifying/ refining my chainsaw collection

And after the show me your stuff thread, and seeing the collection that @GuitarlCarl has, started looking at guitars, and found this Charvel Surfcaster accoustic electric

that I thought might be cool and good for a beginner like me. I can play Smoke on the Water on bass.
I haven't bought it yet. But they already knocked about 30% off, and I'm hoping to get it a little cheaper.

Sorry for the thread derail. Oh no, that got me thinkin about the toy trains!

 

[sandman]

So many toys and so little time in a day . I can't get to them all .

 

[OddJob]

Dig the Charvel. Is there a pick up in it? i.e. electrified?

 

[Klunkruiser]

Dig the Charvel. Is there a pick up in it? i.e. electrified?

Yeah, it's accoustic electric. Plugs in the middle of the strap thing on the back, and has a tiny equalizer on top.

Nice rosewood on the back. The wood on the front is kinda plain compared to a couple I saw online, or I might have bought it right then.