Kronan

[Ace]

My shopping bike:

Best thing is the frontrack is not attached to the frontwheel, which means the weight of any luggage attached doesn't pull on the steering in corners. In fact, the bike remains on its stand while parked with stuff still on it, the front part of the bike does not tip over (which is crucial when getting a crate of beer home :mrgreen: ):

Backside with numberplate, backrack + pumpholder:

Steer + seat I pulled of the black Whizzer before I sold it 8)

 

[aka_locojoe]

Nice bike. Are the racks factory or did you add them?

 

[Ace]

Backrack is stock on these Kronans, the front one I ordered online from them.
They are garanteed to hold 20 kg, but I've seen them hold much more than that. The back one is not as sturdy as could be due to the flat metal sidestrips, instead of tubing or roundbar, so they will not hold any passenger or heavy loads without swinging from side to side. But I like the double clamp on the back one, it will secure stuff better than a single one.

PS: With the adding of the frontrack I relocated the Kronan badge from the frame to the front fender (or where you like it best) because the spot is needed for the 2 metal clamps that attach the rack to the frame. Also the frontlight moved from its original position on the headset to the side of the wheel, because it was in the way of the beercrate. :wink:

 

[Ace]

Just had a look, and they are selling them in America, Japan, and Oz as well now, instead of just Europe:
"The Kronan bicycle is a replica of a Swedish military bicycle from the 1940s. We’ve kept its classical construction and timeless design, and we have improved its individual components and used modern technologies in the gears, hubs and rear light. The result is a stable, durable bicycle for both city and road. The bicycle is available in 1-speed and 3-speed models."

http://usa.kronan.com/index.php

Mine is a single speed and around 20 years old. I would never pay that price for a new one, got mine second hand for half the price. And replaced the seat asap, the original ones are rock hard :mrgreen: also the handlebars are too narrow, but I fixed that as well. Heavy bikes though, I wish mine had a 3-speed hub !

About the frontrack: you could find/order one as it will fit any bike, and they are really strong and handy.
If you're looking for a solid frontrack, get this one:

http://www.kronanstoreusa.com/basket-1.aspx

They are not cheap at $65, but as they are sold more you might find one for less elsewhere.

 

[2manybikes]

(which is crucial when getting a crate of beer home :mrgreen: ):

Nice bike, the taillight/guard is really clean.
How many beers are in a crate? :?: :lol:

 

[Ace]

24 bottles of 30 cc, and I stack 2 of these on top of eachother:

Fits like a glove :mrgreen: makes a heck of a lot of noise though !

 

[ifitsfreeitsforme]

so want a rear taillight like that

 

[dutchunirider]

they look nice but they are made from not good materials the rims are not good
i have seen some at my local bicycle shop where i work
somthing newer is the company named dutch id bikes
link: http://www.dutch-id.nl/transporter.shtml
i like these

 

[Ace]

Heavy duty frames, they can take more beating for sure - but not my cup of tea.
Kronans are of old design, but the newer models do have better materials I think.
Mine on the other hand is a bit older and less weatherproof, but still surviving well :mrgreen:
Those are still the original tires 8)

 

[C.S.]

New materials are used because the old stuff is just that, old stuff. Like the Shimano hubs for instance: I prefer a Torpedo hub, but Sachs stopped making them.
The problem with those rusty rims is not the steel, it's the powder coating. Powder coating works well, until there is a hole in it, then the steel will rust underneath the plastic shield. How many holes are there in an average bicycle rim?
The front rack may hold two crates of beer, but it squeezes the head tube when you put it on.
No, I don't mean to say Kronan is a bad choise, but nowadays bicycles have to be cheap, while say 50 years ago they where made to last a lifetime (and costed a fortune).
Three Dutchmen discussing a Swedish bike on a Schwinn dominated forum. Hum.

 

[Hooch]

Three Dutchmen discussing a Swedish bike on a Schwinn dominated forum. Hum.

that is what makes this place cool!
and thats a cool bike!

 

[user 135]

New materials are used because the old stuff is just that, old stuff. Like the Shimano hubs for instance: I prefer a Torpedo hub, but Sachs stopped making them.

The Sachs single speed coaster brake is being currently produced. A company in Czech Republic is using the tooling licensed from Fitchel and Sachs.
http://www.velosteel.cz/Eng/coaster.htm
http://kogswell.com/siteVELOSTEEL.php

 

[Galtbacken]

I really like those bikes, and here in Sweden they're not expensive compared to many other bikes. I used to have a really old army version of this bike. I don't know how these new ones are, but the old ones were practically unbreakable. Unfortunately mine was stolen.

 

[C.S.]

Hooch: "that is what makes this place cool!"
Yes.

Cman: "The Sachs single speed coaster brake is being currently produced. A company in Czech Republic is using the tooling licensed from Fitchel and Sachs."
I know, I got one in the sidecar-bicycle at this moment, testing it. I think it's good enough for its price.
But I got an original Torpedo waiting.......

Galtbacken: "I don't know how these new ones are"
I heard the frames are made in Germany now and are just of average quality, not comparable with the old ones.
Buy one if you like the look of it, they are better made than supermarket bikes, but it is not an old army bike.

For those who are interested: I have a pair of brown-wall tires fitting a modern Kronan (650x42b / 44-584).

 

[Ace]

The problem with those rusty rims is not the steel, it's the powder coating. Powder coating works well, until there is a hole in it, then the steel will rust underneath the plastic shield. How many holes are there in an average bicycle rim?

I see your point, but the thing is, most people in Amsterdam haven't got a shed or garage and park their bikes outside, and I've always kept mine inside - that's why it is pretty much ok after 20 years. They are an easy target for decay though, I've seen many of them just rotting away...

The front rack may hold two crates of beer, but it squeezes the head tube when you put it on.

Hasn't happened to me yet, but that's probably because there is only tarmac between me and the liquorstore !

Three Dutchmen discussing a Swedish bike on a Schwinn dominated forum. Hum.

C'est tres cool, n'est-ce pas ? :mrgreen:

 

[Ace]

so want a rear taillight like that

I found them at €18,50 as cheapest. Plus p&p would be $30-35 at least, which is pretty expensive. I'll keep my eyes open for a second hand, but perhaps other people from Holland can do better than me ?

Battery powered led:
http://www.kronanwinkel.nl/prod_show.php?art_no=FIKR010

This seems to be the new thing, mine is old fashionedly powered by the dynamo.
But you would want the battery one I guess, saves you the trouble of having to peddle even harder. :mrgreen:

 

[karl]

Re: Kronan,why i dont like it.

I never liked kronans much,to put another coin in the bag,being dutch.
The wheels are non standard size,they are 25e more expensive than regular 26x1.75 wheels,
the frame is heavy and welded,together with the metal rims its a rather weighty bike.
It is swedish (i am not)and comes in happy colors :x .
This is my (and may i modestly claim)better version of the kronan:

26x1.75 alu rims,alu fenders,26" Union 70,s sportframe,
scwalbe kojaks,lighter and faster and it is lugged not welded.
It is for sale btw.
Not to kick people on the aching legs,just my humble opinion.
Hey,want to race me?
Kronan vs union?
A Dutch rrb meet and/or buildoff would be cool 8)

 

[Ace]

Sorry for my late reply, missed this before I guess...

That looks like quite a clever way to secure your rack to the frame instead of the fork, got any detailed/build shots ?

And yes it is a heavy bike, if I was to race you it sure wouldn't be on this one :mrgreen: see you @ FBI ?

 

[hubgearfreak]

The front rack may hold two crates of beer, but it squeezes the head tube when you put it on.

Hasn't happened to me yet, but that's probably because there is only tarmac between me and the liquorstore !

that headtube, on an heavy steel bike will have a wall thickness of 2 or 3 mm. and it's tubular. to crush it would take a lot, lot more force than could ever be exerted by the clamp. i'd bet a good deal of my english pounds that the spanner would round the corners off the (M8?) nuts far earlier

hello from over the Noordzee :mrgreen:

 

[C.S.]

hubgearfreak wrote:
that headtube, on an heavy steel bike will have a wall thickness of 2 or 3 mm. and it's tubular. to crush it would take a lot, lot more force than could ever be exerted by the clamp. i'd bet a good deal of my english pounds that the spanner would round the corners off the (M8?) nuts far earlier

Nope, 1/16" or 1,5875 mm where the clamp goes. And I've seen the dents in head tubes made by those clamps. Two dents in the head tube means your bearings are not in line. Ouch. In my opinion Karl's rack is a better option. And it's attached to a Union, my favorite Dutch bike.