ORBO Le Klunker de Acatène

[68z27]

+1.......that's exactly what I was thinking when I first saw it: higher looks more racy, lower looks more classic.

Its a win-win situation!

 

[BartRidesEternal]

I think it depends on how old you want the bike to look when it is finished. If you want it to look like it’s from the fat bike era, then lower is probably better.

If you want to make the bike look more racy, higher is better. That also makes it look more modern.

+1.......that's exactly what I was thinking when I first saw it: higher looks more racy, lower looks more classic.

Its a win-win situation!

Much appreciated! I think I will keep it high. I'm not shooting for the 'old' look, more like a 'nod' towards the vintage klunkers.
Since with the shaft drive there probably won't fit huge tires in there, a sleek frame fits that very well.
Normally I love to see bikes with small diameter tubing and balloon/big tires.

There is a little bit of space now to think about parts. This is just some rambling:

The gear ratio is 2:1. So like a 44t - 22t (chainring - rear sprocket).
That is not bad for a 26" single speed.
My current Klunker has a 39t - 19t ratio, very similar. With 26x2.4" tires.

I have several coasterbrake hubs. Also an Sturmey Archer S2C, but that is not great when offroading (already tried it long ago).
Also have "Araya TM18" rims lying in my shack that I can give a good clean.

• Shimano CB-E110, solid choice.
• Histop hub, already laced with grey rims.
• Old Sturmey Archer hub that I need to refurbish. I wonder what the year is and how the inside functions.
• Sturmey Archer S1C in black, very smooth hub!

It also depends on the frame: Clearcoated or a colour.

Histop hub and grey rims.


Hmm, maybe I should clean the frame and the brazings first.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

First parts arrived:

I know nothing about Shimano Dura Ace with JIS square tapered. If someone could tell me more, I'm interested!
But: These cranks are very light!
I bought them second hand for 1/8 of a price other sets go for.
There is a subtle hint on the second photo, but one spider arm is bent. Perfect for.....

"LE SHAFT DRIVE"

I plan to remove the spiders arms completely, but can't make twins of both left/right. So I'll leave a little round shape at the base of the spider arms.

Me next to a roadie in the near future: "My Dura Ace is lighter than yours"

In the meantime I'm also finishing the cigar box guitar for my dad. I'm posting it here because it eats time from my buildoff bike.

Now drying with a 'dark oak' coating on it.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

I know nothing about Shimano Dura Ace with JIS square tapered. If someone could tell me more, I'm interested!
But: These cranks are very light!
I bought them second hand for 1/8 of a price other sets go for.

I just found out that this crankset is 1st Generation Dura Ace from 1973.
And non-damaged sets are pretty expensive... and I'm going to alter it in the lathe if that isn't Ratrodding...

 

[Pondo]

and I'm going to alter it in the lathe if that isn't Ratrodding...

Oh, yeah, that's good stuff.

 

[Ulu]

I’d knock them off short with a hacksaw first just to save machine time.

Plus it would make a good picture of you cutting it up.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Hi guys.

When I turned around the jig to work on a few braze-ons like the threaded bush I made earlier...
I saw that the left chainstay is positioned a little higher than the right. Not much, but visible.

Seat stays and loops align pretty good.

So I'm thinking about the options:
A: Remove the loop and check again with a tool of sorts.

B: Remove only the chainstay connection and do that part again.

C: Leave it, since the shaft made the frame already 'asymmetrical'. Maybe I can add something to balance it out.

Little bit/hardly visible.

Just a thought; to add something, since there will be a dropout of sorts.

Maybe I have time to measure it tomorrow.
A little setback in time, but it has to feel right.

I'm working on some sort of tool to hold seat- and chainstay tubes. Also for future builds with simpler seat-chainstays. That way I can properly align them and check them. No need for tacking, just start with brazing. I can finish this tool next week. Maybe I should take it easy and do it right.

To do list:

-Brazing, aligning and more brazing.
-Cleaning the connections and the frame.
-Mockup and parts pile.
-Adapting the Dura Ace cranks.
-Disassembling, cleaning and refurbishing the shaft assembly.
-Final? Assembly.
-There is always more.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

I’d knock them off short with a hacksaw first just to save machine time.

Plus it would make a good picture of you cutting it up.

I will certainly do that!