thats looks verrry good ! 
LITTLE TOAD! RRBBO#14 Class 2. I'm out. :(
- Thread starter LukeTheJoker
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Thank you Sir!Awesome work on that whole wheel assembly! I really like the open hole look, very stealth and gives it a 'light weight' look as well. Well, as light as a steel 11" wide wheel can look anyway!
And those welds.....
Appreciate it!Great fab work!
Thanks 1HP!thats looks verrry good !
I took a trip into town today...
Got a tire fitted...
I have been tossing up the way the frame will be built, I know it will mainly be 7/8" tubing, but my original idea was to brace in between with more short pieces of the same tubing, that is why I built a little notching jig a while back:
Of course there is that other thing I have been wanting to do but couldn't justify the purchase price of the tooling, I have considered making my own tooling to do it, and that was part of the reason I upgraded the little lathe motor, but now I am having trouble keeping belts on it, too much torque on too narrow a belt...
Bigger pulleys and belts in the future will fix that...
I had pretty much given up on the idea until I was bored tonight and went searching the internet for how to ways of doing what I wanted...
Found 2 videos, I will probably combine the methods used and see what I can come up with!
i just said it was that big
Tell me this bad boy is tubeless...
It looks bad (well you know what is suppose be here)...
It looks bad (well you know what is suppose be here)...
Thank you Sir!
Appreciate it!
Thanks 1HP!
I took a trip into town today...
Got a tire fitted...
View attachment 95488
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Hoosier daddy!!! Too cool.
What does the tyre shop say when you rock up with a rim like that?
And serious Kudos on welding up an air tight rim!
Thanks everyone! It is crazy for sure!
Tell me this bad boy is tubeless...
It looks bad (well you know what is suppose be here)...
It is indeed tubeless! The rim is welded from both sides, so much easier to get a full seal, even so, I was glad the gas bottle ring worked out!
Well considering the guy that fits my tires also owns one of my first builds, they usually just ask me to bring it by when it is done so they can see what the build looks like!
This is "Big Joe" from my local tire place with the "50 years" bike from MBBO#01:
Nope, kinda rough idea in my head...You have a sketch of what the general layout is going to look like?
Somewhere between this:
and this:
with a dash of this:
and these:
Not sure if I can pull all that off, but that is where my head is at...
Thought I was starting to smell what's cooking until I got to the boombox and luggage.....kinda get the idea though...non-bent Little Toad.
That quad cycle is wicked!..
...kinda get the idea though...non-bent Little Toad. That quad cycle is wicked!..
Yep non bent tadpole cargo trike thing...Thought I was starting to smell what's cooking until I got to the boombox and luggage..
That quad cycle is wicked!..
That quad was the short lived Athos quad, they also made fat tire 26" versions. It had crazy awesome custom differentials and everything, but I think they just priced themselves out of the market for what was basically a toy.
In reality a good two wheeled machine could probably beat it in every way in the real world.
I believe the whole company is bust now, as all the web pages are gone...
Shame, some cool engineering there...
That's a common thing when a company makes crazy, overly complicated contraptions, that might look cool, be nice to ride, but are over engineered. I think that's the reason that most of the 7speed bikes that come to my shop, are on a Nexus hub, instead of the Sram Spectro
Totally agree!
So, I combined those ideas in the videos posted earlier about doing dimple dies, and built my own method:
Basically a fork lower bearing cone with a spacer welded inside to center it on the bolt, an outer tube a bit bigger, in this case a Datsun clutch throw out bearing, some thick washers and an impact wrench...
Just after the video was shot the nut stripped completely, thankfully I had a spare nut, so reassembled the whole thing using it and used some high pressure molybdenum grease on the threads instead, that got me to the end of that strip before the new nut bound up and stripped the bolt.
Managed to dig up another bolt and nut out of the stash, and going a bit slower and with plenty of grease got the second strip done, but by the last hole the new nut was starting to bind as well.
Hopefully two strips is plenty, but can easily get some better quality grade 8 bolts and nuts next time I am in town either way, those cheap bolts just can't handle the torque required to do 16 gauge (1.6mm) drawn steel, thinner steel or annealed sheet would be fine, I was just using what was handy...
It might be time to get a sheet of 18 gauge Zincanneal, (1.2mm) need some for the Datsun anyway...
Basically a fork lower bearing cone with a spacer welded inside to center it on the bolt, an outer tube a bit bigger, in this case a Datsun clutch throw out bearing, some thick washers and an impact wrench...
Just after the video was shot the nut stripped completely, thankfully I had a spare nut, so reassembled the whole thing using it and used some high pressure molybdenum grease on the threads instead, that got me to the end of that strip before the new nut bound up and stripped the bolt.
Managed to dig up another bolt and nut out of the stash, and going a bit slower and with plenty of grease got the second strip done, but by the last hole the new nut was starting to bind as well.
Hopefully two strips is plenty, but can easily get some better quality grade 8 bolts and nuts next time I am in town either way, those cheap bolts just can't handle the torque required to do 16 gauge (1.6mm) drawn steel, thinner steel or annealed sheet would be fine, I was just using what was handy...
It might be time to get a sheet of 18 gauge Zincanneal, (1.2mm) need some for the Datsun anyway...
Digging that vintage cooler and the suitcases!
Yea grade 8 bolts and nuts should hold up better to due that type of work.
