Loose bearings for headset

[almaguer4]

I replaced the headset bearings on a 69 Sears Spyder using caged bearings. The size of top bearings looked a bit different so I used the old one. I cleaned it, adjusted it and greased it. The bottom one looked right so I used the new one.

From day one, the top race never fit right, but I managed to tighten it. The bottom one fit fine I thought but as I was changing the handle bars recently, I noticed there was play on the fork tube so tightened it and noticed the bottom bearing cage was off set. see pics below. Any suggestions as to what happened? Or how I can prevent it from happening.

Also, does anyone have a suggestion on where I can purchase a complete headset to fit the Sears Spyder? When I was looking to buy one, I noticed the upper and lower cups/head tube race where a different size. Thanks for your help and sorry for the long post.

 

[almaguer4]

PS...has anyone used loose bearings on top and bottom?

Here's the other pic

 

[ifitsfreeitsforme]

yes, you can lose the captured bearing sets and replace with more of the same diameter balls.

 

[Wildcat]

On that Murray frame I would expect the same size cups and bearings as the usual sets. Many of the older bikes and English bikes used loose bearings. When you take them apart, bearings go everywhere if you don't catch them in a bucket. To install them, the grease holds them in place while you assemble everything.
You could use grease and loosely add the same number of bearings as what's in the cages now, then see how the fork acts. You could use the same bearings as in the cages.

However, before all that, from looking at your pic, it looks like the bottom set of bearings didn't sit evenly on the crown race when it went together. That's easy to do because it isn't that noticeable. Take the bearings in the cage and see how they ride on the crown race. It should be a nice fit. Then insert the fork into the frame and see how it fits. If that was the problem, as you tighten the upper nut, watch to see that the bottom hasn't slipped a little and let the bearing move out of place.
edit: There is a crown race on the fork isn't there?

 

[mikeeebikey]

2 different 1" threaded headsets. One is current or modern, 22.2 quil.
The other which is older/cheaper stuff is for the 21.1 quil.
You cannot mix cups/bearings.
A really smart move is to ditch the races, run loose balls but it will require extra balls.

 

[Wildcat]

You mean ditch the cages?

 

[mikeeebikey]

You mean ditch the cages?

Yup, exactly! They literally are to use less bearings!!! Balls are expensive compared to cages...
Using grease to hold them in place, fill the cup then remove 1 ball, need space to roll without rubbing each other.

 

[Wildcat]

I was just pointing out a typo. I remember the English 3 speeds with 22 tiny bearings in each cup on the headset. Usually around 10 got lost and it was put back missing them, but plenty of grease.

 

[CRASH]

First: Those aren't the right cups. The bearings look wrong as well. If you want it right, I recommend contacting Devon Reeh on the RRB facebook group. He is a muscle bike parts recycler. He'll have a complete headset in the exact size you need. Then you won't need to do weird stuff with loose bearings.

 

[almaguer4]

Sorry for the late reply. Thanks you all for the information and suggestions. Much appreciated.

Crash, yes, I’ll reach to him. Thanks!


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