Ok, been promising to do this since I first bought it, but here is the thread for my old 1981 Datsun Stanza!
As bought:
Genuine one owner granny car with only 90,000 km on the clock (55,000 miles) 1.6 litre with 3 speed auto, seat covers on the seats since new etc...
Slowly been working my way through all the steering and suspension joints replacing as needed and cleaning/re-greasing everything else, still have to fix the neutral/park start switch on the auto (currently starts in any gear), re-clip the lower windscreen trim in place and hopefully it should pass straight through the rather strict road-worthy inspections we have in our state.
Finally got around to trying one of the 14" Dragway 2 piece wheels on the car, they came from a later model front wheel drive Nissan so was not 100% sure the offset would be correct, but they are perfect!
Clearance to the strut:
Was not really keen on using them, did not really like the style, but seeing them on the car, I think they could look good!
So, I now am thinking of running the car in three phases:
Step 1: Drive it pretty much as is, but with the 14's while I get the next step organised.
Step 2: Pull the L16 and auto and drop in the L20b and five speed I have sitting in the backyard, pretty much a straight swap, all the same engine mounts, slightly shorter drive shaft, no need for extra engineering tests as it meets the requirements of an "Equivalent engine swap" no cutting/welding on the car, within 20% of weight and power of the original, just drop it in and change the numbers with the authorities. Drive it like that while organising step 3!
Step 3: This will require more time, money and engineering!
a: Limited slip diff, it seems to be rather hard to find a decent LSD in the 4x4.5" stud pattern, so will step up to an even stronger diff from either an RN25 Toyota Hilux (8.8" crownwheel) with a later 3.9 ratio LSD centre and converted to either R31 Skyline or Ford Falcon disc brakes, also changing the rear of the car to 5x4.5" stud pattern in the process (this is correct length diff for the car, just requires changing the mounts over.) Or a shortened Ford Falcon (also 5x4.5" stud pattern) or Holden Commodore (GM) (5x4.75" stud pattern) Borg Warner 78 series (7.8" crownwheel) with the factory LSD and disc brakes. Of those two, I would probably go the Ford version as it legally allows more wheel offset (dish) for better looks... Any of these diff swaps would require drive shaft modifications.
b: Upgraded front brakes and stud pattern change, I have found many bolt in kits to do this, most of them switching to the 5x4.5" stud pattern to match the common Hilux or Ford diff swap, and using Nissan R31 Skyline or Mazda Rx7 callipers, however the up front cost is fairly steep.
With some in depth research I have found that the Holden Commodore front hubs/discs actually use the exact same bearings as my little Stanza, and some quick measuring with the callipers looking at depths and clearances at the parts store indicates they should slip straight on allowing either 270mm (10.6"), 290mm (11.4"), or even up to 327mm (12.8") front vented discs, making a "dogbone" adapter to run the bigger 2 and 4 spot callipers should be fairly straight forward too, allowing a complete Commodore 4 wheel disc brake set up if I went with the matching diff.
More research on the Timken bearings site turned up the fact that Ford Falcon front hubs while running a different bearing, use the same outer cone size, so the standard Stanza bearings would slide straight in like a factory fitment, I have been unable to find a disc/hub to measure regarding depths and clearances yet, but a quick Google search brought up 3 Stanzas running the Falcon brake discs/hubs, so apparently that is possible too! The good thing about that is the stud pattern would match either the Hilux or shortened Ford diff. Local Falcons only ran one size disc, a 287mm (11.3"). "Dogbone" calliper adapters would be required for this swap too.
Any of those brake set ups would be more than enough to pull up such a light weight car...
The pre-made front kits while costing more, do come with engineering pre-approval, so I need to make a decision regarding time and effort verses $$$'s... The easiest set up of all would be the Hilux diff with the standard drum brakes kept and the bought Skyline front brake conversion, the correct disc/drum master cylinder is available fairly cheaply too, but if I am going to all that trouble, do I really want to keep those heavy rear drums? The R31 Skyline rear disc conversion is not too expensive, would probably step up to them...
Once all that is in the car I would have to find some new wheels to put on it, thinking either 15x6", 16x6.5 or 17x7.5" factory Ford steels powder-coated black or some 5 or 6 spoke or mesh alloys in either gold or black...
By then I would probably want more power, so I would put a rebuild kit through the Datsun 180B SSS twin Hitachi/SU intake set up I have had sitting in the laundry cupboard for the last 5 years, that and a hotter cam should allow plenty of fun without risking my license...
Oh, and I am thinking somewhere along there it will receive a 2" reverse cowl scoop and blacked out bonnet. (hood)
Currently not planning on painting it.
I only live an hour away from a raceway that has open drive days, should be fun!
Luke.
As bought:
Genuine one owner granny car with only 90,000 km on the clock (55,000 miles) 1.6 litre with 3 speed auto, seat covers on the seats since new etc...
Slowly been working my way through all the steering and suspension joints replacing as needed and cleaning/re-greasing everything else, still have to fix the neutral/park start switch on the auto (currently starts in any gear), re-clip the lower windscreen trim in place and hopefully it should pass straight through the rather strict road-worthy inspections we have in our state.
Finally got around to trying one of the 14" Dragway 2 piece wheels on the car, they came from a later model front wheel drive Nissan so was not 100% sure the offset would be correct, but they are perfect!
Clearance to the strut:
Was not really keen on using them, did not really like the style, but seeing them on the car, I think they could look good!
So, I now am thinking of running the car in three phases:
Step 1: Drive it pretty much as is, but with the 14's while I get the next step organised.
Step 2: Pull the L16 and auto and drop in the L20b and five speed I have sitting in the backyard, pretty much a straight swap, all the same engine mounts, slightly shorter drive shaft, no need for extra engineering tests as it meets the requirements of an "Equivalent engine swap" no cutting/welding on the car, within 20% of weight and power of the original, just drop it in and change the numbers with the authorities. Drive it like that while organising step 3!
Step 3: This will require more time, money and engineering!
a: Limited slip diff, it seems to be rather hard to find a decent LSD in the 4x4.5" stud pattern, so will step up to an even stronger diff from either an RN25 Toyota Hilux (8.8" crownwheel) with a later 3.9 ratio LSD centre and converted to either R31 Skyline or Ford Falcon disc brakes, also changing the rear of the car to 5x4.5" stud pattern in the process (this is correct length diff for the car, just requires changing the mounts over.) Or a shortened Ford Falcon (also 5x4.5" stud pattern) or Holden Commodore (GM) (5x4.75" stud pattern) Borg Warner 78 series (7.8" crownwheel) with the factory LSD and disc brakes. Of those two, I would probably go the Ford version as it legally allows more wheel offset (dish) for better looks... Any of these diff swaps would require drive shaft modifications.
b: Upgraded front brakes and stud pattern change, I have found many bolt in kits to do this, most of them switching to the 5x4.5" stud pattern to match the common Hilux or Ford diff swap, and using Nissan R31 Skyline or Mazda Rx7 callipers, however the up front cost is fairly steep.
With some in depth research I have found that the Holden Commodore front hubs/discs actually use the exact same bearings as my little Stanza, and some quick measuring with the callipers looking at depths and clearances at the parts store indicates they should slip straight on allowing either 270mm (10.6"), 290mm (11.4"), or even up to 327mm (12.8") front vented discs, making a "dogbone" adapter to run the bigger 2 and 4 spot callipers should be fairly straight forward too, allowing a complete Commodore 4 wheel disc brake set up if I went with the matching diff.
More research on the Timken bearings site turned up the fact that Ford Falcon front hubs while running a different bearing, use the same outer cone size, so the standard Stanza bearings would slide straight in like a factory fitment, I have been unable to find a disc/hub to measure regarding depths and clearances yet, but a quick Google search brought up 3 Stanzas running the Falcon brake discs/hubs, so apparently that is possible too! The good thing about that is the stud pattern would match either the Hilux or shortened Ford diff. Local Falcons only ran one size disc, a 287mm (11.3"). "Dogbone" calliper adapters would be required for this swap too.
Any of those brake set ups would be more than enough to pull up such a light weight car...
The pre-made front kits while costing more, do come with engineering pre-approval, so I need to make a decision regarding time and effort verses $$$'s... The easiest set up of all would be the Hilux diff with the standard drum brakes kept and the bought Skyline front brake conversion, the correct disc/drum master cylinder is available fairly cheaply too, but if I am going to all that trouble, do I really want to keep those heavy rear drums? The R31 Skyline rear disc conversion is not too expensive, would probably step up to them...
Once all that is in the car I would have to find some new wheels to put on it, thinking either 15x6", 16x6.5 or 17x7.5" factory Ford steels powder-coated black or some 5 or 6 spoke or mesh alloys in either gold or black...
By then I would probably want more power, so I would put a rebuild kit through the Datsun 180B SSS twin Hitachi/SU intake set up I have had sitting in the laundry cupboard for the last 5 years, that and a hotter cam should allow plenty of fun without risking my license...
Oh, and I am thinking somewhere along there it will receive a 2" reverse cowl scoop and blacked out bonnet. (hood)
Currently not planning on painting it.
I only live an hour away from a raceway that has open drive days, should be fun!
Luke.
