Thankfully in our state it only has to be checked this one time while I have it, when the time comes to sell it, it will need to be checked again before being re-registered.Sure would like to find a solid old car like yours, Luke.
With our winters and all the salt - many cars rot away before the mechanical s quit.
Would be expensive keeping some of my old vehicles going if I had to pass such a thorough inspection as you have...
Glad it's all easy fixes, and staying on the road.
This one is the later model with the solid rear axle. I have sourced a Toyota 'G' series diff for it that I can easily get a 4.1 ratio LSD for, but after doing research on my current diff I found my car has the Australian BW68 diff and it is strong enough for what I want to do anyway, no LSD's available for them though, so with probably do the engine swap and drive it around for a bit before deciding on the diff change or not.My first car was an early 1970 240Z ("240Z" on the C-pillar and "DATSUN" badges on the lower front fender) and I later had a small-bumper 1974 260Z (about mid-year in the US, they switched to the bulky 280Z-size).
I didn't go through all the pages to find about the LSD, but is yours a solid axle? If it's independent, Subaru used the same rear ends, which may help you. They have 3.545, 3.7, and 3.9 VLSDs. The 3.7 came on GL/Leone RX Turbo, 3.9 on the Legacy/Liberty turbos, and various 3.545 and 3.9s on WRXs and there may be other combos as well (I think there might have been 4.11 or 4.44 in Japan). The earlier diffs may be easier as the later changed the inboard axle connection from internal to external (or the other way around, it's been a while since I've followed this stuff).
Enter your email address to join: