Lucky 7 seatposts

[MORTUNDEAD]

I got a prewar schwinn that needs one. How can i make one? All help is appreciated.

 

[outskirtscustoms]

Fill a normal tube with sand then heat and bend, DO NOT quench with water. Or there are a few people who have used pipe and an elbow.

 

[dangratsdan]

I use solid steel rod the diameter closest to the seat tube, use shims when needed. I bend the rod using a six foot piece of pipe as a cheater bar, and a hole in a concrete slab. I figure what angle I want, and with an angle gauge of somekind or a piece of paper and scizzors, save it as a tool . Get the solid rod from a scape yard ( I did that, got 4 or 5 feet of SS for $6.50) or a hardware store should have some $13-$15 for 3 '. Got to have a way to cut the solid rod to lenght, A hack saw would be a challenge, A grinder could work.
I figure the angle of the post to where I want the seat to sit, put the solid rod in the hole,, put the cheater on the rod at the hole if I want a tight bend, If I want a bigger curve in the rod I move the cheater away from the hole. Then bend the rod to the angle you have on your tool/paper,, shim as needed. Sometime you have to change the seat clamp and/or shim it .

 

[gcrank1]

Whatever you use it has to be a good fit in the seatclamp ; at that horizontal mounting it will slip to the side(s) if it doesnt clamp up tight. IMHO, A solid rod that fits the seat tube would be best, then grind the seat end to fit the seatclamp.

 

[ozzmonaut]

If it is for a prewar Schwinn it is probably 7/8" tube where it fits into the frame, and 5/8" solid where the seat clamps. You could use 7/8" solid and grind it to 5/8" where the seat goes. 7/8" will be hard to bend though. If it is a very early prewar, it may use 5/8" solid for the whole seatpost, which would be easier to make. You could also weld 5/8" solid on top of 7/8" hollow, but you would need to do a lot of extra welding and grinding/sanding to make it look right.