Made in the Shade

[Reallybigtim]

The chainring/crank/pedals that I bought on ebay could not be found by the seller after I bought them. At least that was his story. So, I am still in need of those pieces if anyone has them. But not to delay the test ride, I temporarily installed a mystery prewar chainring and dog legs. Also looked through the pile of chainguards and I think that I have the correct one. That was a happy accident. But one of my ideas was to change to the better Huffman chainguard that came on the Dayton bikes, so this one is temporary. Unfortunately, the correct chainguard looks like one of those generic ones that came on all the cheap bikes. It has no style. My bikes have to have style. Anyway, once it was all assembled (and after replacing a surprise stripped out front axle), I got my courage up (liquid courage), and took it down the road. Rode it down to the covered bridge and back (about 2 miles). It rode beautifully but those shiny parts hurt my eyes! Must replace fast!

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Looking good!

...It rode beautifully but those shiny parts hurt my eyes! Must replace fast!

LOL

 

[Captain Awesome]

It rode beautifully but those shiny parts hurt my eyes! Must replace fast! View attachment 94513
View attachment 94515

What a cruiser!!

 

[cayman]

Great looking build!

 

[Reallybigtim]

I have been looking for an early Huffman because I have this Huffman springer that I want to use .

It was on a postwar Columbia that I acquired a while back. So, I was very excited to find out that this bike was a Huffman. Problem 1: No patina on the springer, all patina on the bike. Problem 2: This bike has the original fork. So, I might install it temporarily just to see how it looks. But it won't look right on a crusty bike. I guess that I am still looking for a Huffman.

 

[OddJob]

Remember RBT, this is 'rat rod' bikes.
It's more about finding parts that go together, looks and function wise, than parts that were supposed to go together.

I like your rusty theme. There are a few ways to create your own 'faux-tina' or what I like to call 'surreal rust'.

RaT oN~!

 

[LukeTheJoker]

View attachment 94513

So perfect!

 

[Reallybigtim]

Remember RBT, this is 'rat rod' bikes.
It's more about finding parts that go together, looks and function wise, than parts that were supposed to go together.

I like your rusty theme. There are a few ways to create your own 'faux-tina' or what I like to call 'surreal rust'.

RaT oN~!

I am a treasure hunter. I will do my best to find the best combination correct and rusty parts. No fake stuff for me. And I will use as many Huffman parts as possible. But even if I found a rusty Huffman springer, I wouldn't use it (and I use springers on everything), because I like the front end exactly the way it is.

 

[Reallybigtim]

Even though I don't do the faux-finish rust thing, I am thinking of bringing back just a little bit of color to the frame (especially since I know the original colors). The fork seems to have had heavier paint than the frame because it shows more original color than the frame. That shade of cream that remains on the forks would be my gauge for the the frame. Then a faded red for the front area of the frame. Maybe a dry sponge application strategy???

 

[OddJob]

Even though I don't do the faux-finish rust thing, I am thinking of bringing back just a little bit of color to the frame (especially since I know the original colors). The fork seems to have had heavier paint than the frame because it shows more original color than the frame. That shade of cream that remains on the forks would be my gauge for the the frame. Then a faded red for the front area of the frame. Maybe a dry sponge application strategy???

I brought my Hawthorne frame from a heavy rust to the original colors with a light application of white vinegar on a tightly woven cotton cloth (so it doesn't absorb / hold too much vinegar). After you get to the paint, go easy, because the over lay, like darts and stripes, will come off faster than the base paint.

Here's a before and after just for comparison.

After I cleaned the chain guard and crank and bars and stem, I applied a combination of 3 paints, with rubbing, to get the 'heavy metal cast' look. You can do a lot with light coats of rattle can.

 

[OddJob]

...and yes, to add light coats to specific areas I have sprayed paint on to a sponge and dabbed paint on. If you leave it sit on the sponge for a bit, it will go on pretty dry. Easy to control the amount that way.

 

[Reallybigtim]

When I had the fun surprise of a stripped out front axle yesterday (just before the first test ride), I had an idea when I was putting it back together. I slid the strut rod ends on the axle first and then slipped the wheel into the forks. This hides the ends of the strut rods and cleans up the axle area nicely. The line of the fork is now followed all the way down to the axle. Very clean appearance! It also narrows the distance between the rods which gives a cool contrast to the very wide looking forks. It's the little details that can make all the difference. Once again, subtle, but effective.

 

[Reallybigtim]

...and yes, to add light coats to specific areas I have sprayed paint on to a sponge and dabbed paint on. If you leave it sit on the sponge for a bit, it will go on pretty dry. Easy to control the amount that way.

Still don't know if I have the nerve or patience to try it. But I probably will.

 

[Reallybigtim]

Still don't know if I have the nerve or patience to try it. But I probably will.

I really don't think that there is any paint left "to get down to" on the Huffman frame. I just want to put enough "back on" to show the reverse pattern paint scheme. I have REALLY been liking reverse paint bikes lately. They are just so rare and cool! I don't currently own any other reverse paint bikes but did I put this cool little CWC Western Flyer together replacing the original blue/cream fenders with a very rare set of cream/blue reverse pattern fenders and using many other cream pieces for a beautiful effect. She is truly an art deco beauty.

 

[Reallybigtim]

No need to tighten this bolt down. Seat post and frame are fused together. Glad there was enough to use. Looks cool loose anyway.

 

[Reallybigtim]

I also have non-adjustable rear axle adjusters. Glad I had enough chain to overcome this dilemma.

...and yes, to add light coats to specific areas I have sprayed paint on to a sponge and dabbed paint on. If you leave it sit on the sponge for a bit, it will go on pretty dry. Easy to control the amount that way.

 

[Reallybigtim]

...and yes, to add light coats to specific areas I have sprayed paint on to a sponge and dabbed paint on. If you leave it sit on the sponge for a bit, it will go on pretty dry. Easy to control the amount that way.

This is the look I am after...............

Dry and chalky instead of sanded and shiny.

 

[Reallybigtim]

And this seat is nice.........

compared to some of my other riders.

 

[Reallybigtim]

Found some more cool stuff. A nice, ratty, shorty 1940 Ohio license plate. This bike was built in Ohio (in Dayton), rescued in Ohio (at Memory Lane), being ratted out in Ohio, will reside in Ohio, and will be ridden in Ohio. This plate is a badge of honor.

 

[kingfish254]

This build is really grabbing me for this build off. Keep on rolling rusty man! That looks super. I'll have to find the image from the John Brain history that is similar to this build. You'll love it.