Matti goes shopping. New bike phobia

[Dr. Tankenstein]

How much is too much to spend on your dream bike?
View attachment 107805
Oh. $600.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-mountain-bike/ottawa/specialized-stumpjumper-mountain-bike/1467885686

That is sweet! When I’m faced with this question I ask myself, how much would it cost me to build it? Or upgrade my existing rig to get to this level?

If I can get it for less than the cost of building (add 10% for mistakes/forgotten stuff). Then it’s a deal.

My .02


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[MattiThundrrr]

To upgrade my rig to that level? Well, first I'd have to replace the frame, both wheelsets, bb, crankset, forks, cartridge, brakes, controls, bars, tires...
I'm thinking reaaaaaalllllyyyy hard about that one, I've almost convinced myself, then next, my wife. Once I've completed those tasks, I'll contact the seller, by which time, it'll be sold. It's my method. Remember that slingshot stem you sold?

 

[Klunkruiser]

You could always offer less. I once read that the majority of sellers of used goods would sell for 2/3 their asking price.
Cash in hand is a strong persuader.

 

[93EXCivic]

IMO I think you could get it for less then $600. Is everything working on it? Is it the right size?

 

[MattiThundrrr]

It's listed as large, and "good shape", whatever that means. I'm currently on a medium (I think) with my Hardrock, always felt like I could go a size up. I'm about 5'9"
My other consideration is time: here in Canada, the off season is loooooong! I have a few months to shop, probably won't be riding until April! On one hand I could wait for an unbeatable bargain, but in the other, not as many listings in the winter!
I'm also torn about the frame material, I've never had an aluminum mountain bike. Should I broaden my horizons, or stick with steel? I wish I could do N+1, one of each!

 

[pebblewurm]

If you are used to steel, borrow an aluminum hardtail and ride it for a while. You might not like it. I picked up a 1987 Nishiki Ariel recently and just plain love it. The geometry is very similar to a Surly Long Haul Trucker, but with nicer butted tubes and at a yard sale price rather than 500+ USD for the frame alone. the complete bike retails at something like 1900 CAD That difference can buy you a lot of modern gruppo! Find a frame you like and start from there. Just a suggestion and not necessarily a good one.

 

[93EXCivic]

IMO steel is the way to go for a hardtail or rigid. Aluminum generally is somewhat harsh and also seems more likely to break (given what I have seen).

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Yeah I am leery about aluminum, I've heard that the welds are what give out first. I was very careful when I picked up my Diamondback BMX this summer. If I can believe the seller, it was only kids riding it, so that's better than a Montreal Stumpjumper. They've got a few hills over there, and Stumpy is no kid's bike!

 

[93EXCivic]

My second hand Niner WFO9 (aluminum frame) cracked at the welds around the BB. But it was ridden hard and put away wet. I threw the parts on the steel hardtail frame.

What kind of riding do you like to do? A lot of fast rocky downhills or more mild XC trails? I am guessing you aren't looking to spend big money but have you considered new. Have you ridden a modern geometry 29er?

 

[MattiThundrrr]

No fast rocky downhills. Last time I did actual lift serviced downhill was in the ninties on the hardtail. The closest I've come to modern geo was this 700 sized Norco I rented with my wife on our anniversary at Tremblant. The guy at the rental shop was like, "Are you guys sure you don't want the mountain bikes?" Lol apparently, in my forties, I still look EXTREME!!

 

[MattiThundrrr]

If I was considering new, it'd have to be pretty low in the model line, no thousand dollar bikes for Matti. I don't think I need a long slack beastie for the riding I do. I prefer flickability and feeling to rollover and high speed stability. That's why I keep looking for bikes from about seven to ten years ago, pretty much the end of the 26 era

 

[93EXCivic]

Fair enough but it might be worth trying to find a demo day for say Kona. You might enjoy a Honzo (or a 27.5 Explosif very similar geo) and I occasionally see older ones for not a ton of money. It is one of the more flickable bikes I have ridden (short of a 20in BMX or 26in dirt jumper) due to it's short chainstays and steeper head angle (68 degrees).

I'll be honest though. My current mountain bike is around a 64.5deg head angle, 435mm long chainstays, 480mm reach, ~1275mm wheelbase and with 29in wheels and never once while out riding do I really think man this thing isn't flickable even on flatter trails. But I will admit if you aren't hitting drops and rocky steep stuff fairly often that extra a geometry of bike may be an overkill and it could be more flickable but I love steep tech and I am starting to hit more drops and the like so a big long bike is great. I'll also admit every XC mountain bike I have tried I have pretty much hated on mountain bike trails.

 

[ifitsfreeitsforme]

I built a custom mtn bike for myself 10+ years ago for approx. $200. I bought a closeout frame and fork online at two of the larger online bike suppliers, then bought a way-too-big Trek Fuel on Craigslist with almost no miles. Took all the items to my LBS (even tho I have the capability to build a bike) and had them switch over components, then sold the Trek Fuel frame, fork and unused components on eBay for more than I paid for the bike. After labor and a few odds and ends I needed to complete the build, I was out $200 for a light, relatively high end bike with Shimano Deore II, hydraulic discs, excellent wheels etc. Just a suggestion.

P.S. I did this because I could not find exactly what I wanted in new offerings.

 

[Klunkruiser]

One of my main concerns with bike size is standover height.

I like a long slack geo, but don't like a high standover height.

A lot of older steel mountain bike frames that are my size have a high standover. So they feel more like a stretched road bike to me, than something I'm comfortable with on rougher terrain where I might end up in a compromising position on the top tube.

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Just ‘spit balling’ here.
I have worked with LBSs in the past that have a ‘layaway’ plan.

With winter approaching, they may be willing to let you pay on the bike in small monthly increments.

That way, it may be easier to budget the spread of the funds vs. a lump sum..


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[MattiThundrrr]

Thanks for the input. Trust me, I've drooled over the Honzo, and the other Kona hardtails. Also Marin Pine Mountain, etc. I've read "Budget Hardtail" articles and "Best MTB for Under $750" lists until my head spins!
My tastes seem to lean more towards what is called a "bikepacking" style, although I hate the bosses welded all over the place, making the frame tube look like a cactus! Maybe you are right, pushing me out of my comfort zone. This bike shouldn't have overlap with my Hardrock; don't need another old school geo bike, I need an all road/trail weapon!
TBH, I know I ain't gonna get gold for what I want to pay. None of my bikes have ever cost me more than $200. This year, I bought my son a new bike, and it was like $400, and the little punk has already outgrown it!

 

[Klunkruiser]

Buy one that you can grow into!

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Lol nowadays I'm only growing out, not up.

 

[RustyGold]

Get a Schwinn HD frame and a Girven fork and viola, pretty much done.

My son-in-law keeps trying to buy a full tilt dual suspension, hydraulic brakes, 5"+ travel bike...I keep telling him that he hasn't got the skills to take advantage of such a bike. When your skills catch up to the bike...get a better bike. Until then...keep it cheap and simple.

 

[RustyGold]

I got this for $110 a bit over a year ago. Came with girvin upgraded shock on fork, magura hydraulic rim brakes (crazy rim crushing power). Wheelset is junk...but usable (has been a loaner on several family trips over the last year+).

20 years old, not babied, no cracks (I did inspect thoroughly as these are known to crack in the seat subrame area.

It is a complete beast.