Looks like you're over the hump and getting to the fun part on this one. It's so over the top I don't know where the top is anymore...
That chain tensioning rig is brilliant.
That chain tensioning rig is brilliant.
(MBBO#05 Class 2) ★★★ ¡ʇdᴉɹɔs ǝɥʇ dᴉlℲ ★★★ (SOLD to finance exciting new venture!)
- Thread starter LukeTheJoker
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
Don't cut yourself shortIt could, if I was a foot shorter...
...you'll fit fine!
Jason
I have run out of time anyway, I should be prepping for paint by now...I don't think a chopper top was ever intended to be subtle dude....
Don't deny, you keep seeing it an envisioning it...
Maybe just a showcase lift off top
Or just put in ad seller must be under this hight to ride this ride... Built for minis... It's all marketing
Besides that, I don't build just to sell them on, yes it happens some times, but that is not the aim...
Luke.
Was talking to Kelvin today and realised that my plan of having a separate lever for each brake would not work as well as I intended...
I had thought that you could pull the lever on whichever side you wanted to turn and then just pedal to turn the bike basically on the spot, but of course with the locker diff set up, drive always goes to the slowest (i.e. stopped) wheel...
It turns sharply no problem anyway as you saw in the video, so no big loss.
Figured I may as well hook them both up to a double lever then, thankfully Kel has one spare at his place so that solves that issue, still not sure if I want to run two levers for symmetry though?
Will decide on that later.
Figured it was time to make a list of everything that needs doing so I can keep an eye on timing.
1: Mount the brake calipers inside the diff housing.
2: Run the cables through the frame.
3: Make the removable steel support panel for the seat.
4: Weld in a battery box mount and decide where switch goes.
5: Make the wheel cover mounts.
6: Make a headlight mount.
7: Weld in the tail light bases.
8: Make the plywood panels.
9: Final test ride to check everything works as it should.
10: Complete disassembly.
11: Final sanding and cleaning paint of the forks.
12: Primer coat,
13: Base coat.
14: Pearl flake coat.
15: Clear coat.
While the paint thoroughly dries:
16: Convert the lights to battery power and LED.
17: Upholster the seat and side panels.
18: Clean and polish the front rim and mount the whitewall.
19: Clean and paint the rear rims and inside covers.
A couple of days later when the paint is completely set. (In theory with 2 pack epoxy I could do it the very next day, but it is not worth the risk!)
20: Wet sand the frame and forks.
21: Final clear coat.
Give that a few days to be safe and finish anything left from steps 16-19 along with other cleaning and polishing of parts.
22: Assemble trike.
23: Tune brakes.
24: Fit lights, wiring, switch and battery box.
25: Fit upholstered panels and seat.
26: Test ride and fix any issues.
27: Final pics and video.
28: Post finished thread...
That is quite the list!
In reality it is more like this:
Day 1: Steps 1-7.
Day 2: Steps 8,9 and 10.
Day 3: Step 11.
Day 4: Steps 12-15.
Days 5, 6, 8 and 9: Steps 16-19.
Day 7: Steps 20 and 21.
Day 10: Steps 22-26.
Day 11: Steps 27-28.
So out of the next 29 days, I need at least 11 decent days to finish this build...
Hopefully the weather and my health stays decent!
Luke.
I had thought that you could pull the lever on whichever side you wanted to turn and then just pedal to turn the bike basically on the spot, but of course with the locker diff set up, drive always goes to the slowest (i.e. stopped) wheel...
It turns sharply no problem anyway as you saw in the video, so no big loss.
Figured I may as well hook them both up to a double lever then, thankfully Kel has one spare at his place so that solves that issue, still not sure if I want to run two levers for symmetry though?
Will decide on that later.
Figured it was time to make a list of everything that needs doing so I can keep an eye on timing.
1: Mount the brake calipers inside the diff housing.
2: Run the cables through the frame.
3: Make the removable steel support panel for the seat.
4: Weld in a battery box mount and decide where switch goes.
5: Make the wheel cover mounts.
6: Make a headlight mount.
7: Weld in the tail light bases.
8: Make the plywood panels.
9: Final test ride to check everything works as it should.
10: Complete disassembly.
11: Final sanding and cleaning paint of the forks.
12: Primer coat,
13: Base coat.
14: Pearl flake coat.
15: Clear coat.
While the paint thoroughly dries:
16: Convert the lights to battery power and LED.
17: Upholster the seat and side panels.
18: Clean and polish the front rim and mount the whitewall.
19: Clean and paint the rear rims and inside covers.
A couple of days later when the paint is completely set. (In theory with 2 pack epoxy I could do it the very next day, but it is not worth the risk!)
20: Wet sand the frame and forks.
21: Final clear coat.
Give that a few days to be safe and finish anything left from steps 16-19 along with other cleaning and polishing of parts.
22: Assemble trike.
23: Tune brakes.
24: Fit lights, wiring, switch and battery box.
25: Fit upholstered panels and seat.
26: Test ride and fix any issues.
27: Final pics and video.
28: Post finished thread...
That is quite the list!
In reality it is more like this:
Day 1: Steps 1-7.
Day 2: Steps 8,9 and 10.
Day 3: Step 11.
Day 4: Steps 12-15.
Days 5, 6, 8 and 9: Steps 16-19.
Day 7: Steps 20 and 21.
Day 10: Steps 22-26.
Day 11: Steps 27-28.
So out of the next 29 days, I need at least 11 decent days to finish this build...
Hopefully the weather and my health stays decent!
Luke.
Was talking to Kelvin today and realised that my plan of having a separate lever for each brake would not work as well as I intended...
I had thought that you could pull the lever on whichever side you wanted to turn and then just pedal to turn the bike basically on the spot, but of course with the locker diff set up, drive always goes to the slowest (i.e. stopped) wheel...
It turns sharply no problem anyway as you saw in the video, so no big loss.
Figured I may as well hook them both up to a double lever then, thankfully Kel has one spare at his place so that solves that issue, still not sure if I want to run two levers for symmetry though?
Will decide on that later.
Figured it was time to make a list of everything that needs doing so I can keep an eye on timing.
1: Mount the brake calipers inside the diff housing.
2: Run the cables through the frame.
3: Make the removable steel support panel for the seat.
4: Weld in a battery box mount and decide where switch goes.
5: Make the wheel cover mounts.
6: Make a headlight mount.
7: Weld in the tail light bases.
8: Make the plywood panels.
9: Final test ride to check everything works as it should.
10: Complete disassembly.
11: Final sanding and cleaning paint of the forks.
12: Primer coat,
13: Base coat.
14: Pearl flake coat.
15: Clear coat.
While the paint thoroughly dries:
16: Convert the lights to battery power and LED.
17: Upholster the seat and side panels.
18: Clean and polish the front rim and mount the whitewall.
19: Clean and paint the rear rims and inside covers.
A couple of days later when the paint is completely set. (In theory with 2 pack epoxy I could do it the very next day, but it is not worth the risk!)
20: Wet sand the frame and forks.
21: Final clear coat.
Give that a few days to be safe and finish anything left from steps 16-19 along with other cleaning and polishing of parts.
22: Assemble trike.
23: Tune brakes.
24: Fit lights, wiring, switch and battery box.
25: Fit upholstered panels and seat.
26: Test ride and fix any issues.
27: Final pics and video.
28: Post finished thread...
That is quite the list!
In reality it is more like this:
Day 1: Steps 1-7.
Day 2: Steps 8,9 and 10.
Day 3: Step 11.
Day 4: Steps 12-15.
Days 5, 6, 8 and 9: Steps 16-19.
Day 7: Steps 20 and 21.
Day 10: Steps 22-26.
Day 11: Steps 27-28.
So out of the next 29 days, I need at least 11 decent days to finish this build...
Hopefully the weather and my health stays decent!
Luke.
Why not just go im high speed, lock up one rear with out peddling.. I think is spin a tight turn or two...
Look forward to the finish line
Look forward to the finish line
Your, going to be busy,, next 29 days.
Hopefully your momentum pulls you through that list easily.
I vote 2 levers for symmetry....or one big shift lever/suicide brake that you shove forward to stop would be neat.
I vote 2 levers for symmetry....or one big shift lever/suicide brake that you shove forward to stop would be neat.
That is quite the extensive List! I have a similar sized one rolling around in my head, scratch one thing off, add two more, etc. Too early for me to jot it down.
For me, I do like to go back to the simple list when time starts to get in the way.
1. Basic function...(rides and stops)
For me, I do like to go back to the simple list when time starts to get in the way.
1. Basic function...(rides and stops)
The Renaissance Man
__CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster)
Staff member
Moderator
Pro Member
Cool, sounds like you're almost done!Was talking to Kelvin today and realised that my plan of having a separate lever for each brake would not work as well as I intended...
I had thought that you could pull the lever on whichever side you wanted to turn and then just pedal to turn the bike basically on the spot, but of course with the locker diff set up, drive always goes to the slowest (i.e. stopped) wheel...
It turns sharply no problem anyway as you saw in the video, so no big loss.
Figured I may as well hook them both up to a double lever then, thankfully Kel has one spare at his place so that solves that issue, still not sure if I want to run two levers for symmetry though?
Will decide on that later.
Figured it was time to make a list of everything that needs doing so I can keep an eye on timing.
1: Mount the brake calipers inside the diff housing.
2: Run the cables through the frame.
3: Make the removable steel support panel for the seat.
4: Weld in a battery box mount and decide where switch goes.
5: Make the wheel cover mounts.
6: Make a headlight mount.
7: Weld in the tail light bases.
8: Make the plywood panels.
9: Final test ride to check everything works as it should.
10: Complete disassembly.
11: Final sanding and cleaning paint of the forks.
12: Primer coat,
13: Base coat.
14: Pearl flake coat.
15: Clear coat.
While the paint thoroughly dries:
16: Convert the lights to battery power and LED.
17: Upholster the seat and side panels.
18: Clean and polish the front rim and mount the whitewall.
19: Clean and paint the rear rims and inside covers.
A couple of days later when the paint is completely set. (In theory with 2 pack epoxy I could do it the very next day, but it is not worth the risk!)
20: Wet sand the frame and forks.
21: Final clear coat.
Give that a few days to be safe and finish anything left from steps 16-19 along with other cleaning and polishing of parts.
22: Assemble trike.
23: Tune brakes.
24: Fit lights, wiring, switch and battery box.
25: Fit upholstered panels and seat.
26: Test ride and fix any issues.
27: Final pics and video.
28: Post finished thread...
That is quite the list!
In reality it is more like this:
Day 1: Steps 1-7.
Day 2: Steps 8,9 and 10.
Day 3: Step 11.
Day 4: Steps 12-15.
Days 5, 6, 8 and 9: Steps 16-19.
Day 7: Steps 20 and 21.
Day 10: Steps 22-26.
Day 11: Steps 27-28.
So out of the next 29 days, I need at least 11 decent days to finish this build...
Hopefully the weather and my health stays decent!
Luke.
I printed out that list and stuck it up inside the work trailer today:
And this is it at the end of the day:
Not the day I was hoping for, but I did get some other things done that I forgot to put on the list, and the brakes took more work than expected, and then I had another issue which I will explain later...
So, I started with some panel beating, the rear panel had a little dip in it where the two panels joined, with a block of wood and a hammer I managed to get it flattened out nicely, then I started on the list with the brakes, one side went in fine, I worked out a method to disassemble the drivetrain that meant the mounts could be welded straight to the housing.
I just undo the bearing cups on the outside of the axle and then the axle can drop out the side allowing the brakes to slide sideways out of the caliper and lift out! Much easier!
(I have some new disc bolts ready to go in, borrowed two for another project somewhere and never put them back)
The other side was still an issue, the caliper mount had to weld on part way up the curve on the side of the housing, I was able to shave down the mount to gain some of the room back, but it wasn't enough...
So, I shaved down the brake disc!
After clean up and sanding:
Then I had room to weld in the caliper mount:
While I had the drill out to run the cables through the housing, I drilled the drain holes in the diff and frame as @The Renaissance Man suggested:
Great thinking TRM!
Then I moved on to routing the cables, I could not put them through the frame like I wanted as there needed to be enough movement to remove the diff section for servicing, if I ran the cables through the housing and into the frame I would have to remove the cable to take the diff apart, problem is, the diff needs to be apart to remove the cable in that scenario... Catch 22.
So ran the cables outside the frame, leaving enough length before the first cable guide to allow the diff to be separated far enough to loosen the cable.
I use sections of door hinges to make cable guides, it is an idea I first saw @blown240 do on his full suspension fatbike build and it is brilliant!
I place the pin back into the tubes to weld them, it helps to draw the heat away so burn through happens less and it gives you something to hold on to for tacking, then just knock it out when the welding is done, the brass on the pin protects it from weld...
Here is the first pair of guides:
Second pair half way up the frame neck:
Here is how the cables run, pretty happy with them, they will be nice, neat and unobtrusive when it is all done and painted:
Then this happened:
It was on purpose though, this was another item I forgot on the list, the headtube was off by about a degree or so, most people wouldn't have noticed, but it bugged me! So choppy, sleevy and then tacky, tacky:
Check for straight:
Weld, weld, weld:
Sand, sand, sand, and done:
Next item on the list was making the seat support, so cut out the seat pan middle:
As I finished cutting that, I turned the angle grinder off, put it down on the workbench and turned around to put down the steel section I had removed...
As my back turned the grinder suddenly sprung back to life, I dropped the steel and spun around to turn it off only for it to stop by itself.
Took me second to realise the power breaker had tripped, not only that but the switch on the grinder was in the off position!
So I did this:
Removed the switch inside and found that the rubber cover on it was ripped, not that surprising, but interesting to remember when I opened up the switch to check inside:
Those pics are after cleaning out the excess carbon!
There is meant to be two contacts at the top of that switch but they are completely missing, and looking at the scorch marks inside the cover, I am pretty sure some metal shavings got inside the switch and shorted it out, causing the grinder to run and melting the contacts in the same moment.
So I lost a lot of time figuring all that out, I do have a spare grinder but it is old and the gearbox has some play in it, (I won it for best fabrication apprentice in my state back in 1998) so I usually only use it with the wire brush attachment, but it will do to finish what I need to before I can find a new switch for the main grinder.
It was getting late and I was pretty sore, so I just did some figuring out on the tail light mounts and then packed up for the day.
The lights are held fairly tightly by the sleeves in the rear panel, so, I will remove the top flange off the light backing plates and weld in a piece of steel for the bottom flange to bolt to, that will be plenty to hold them in place, but if they get bumped it will have some give so they don't instantly smash the lenses:
So, I didn't get as much done as I would have liked, but I did get some other stuff done and the trike is looking awesome! So I am OK with the progress that happened today overall.
Bring on the next work day!
Luke.
And this is it at the end of the day:
Not the day I was hoping for, but I did get some other things done that I forgot to put on the list, and the brakes took more work than expected, and then I had another issue which I will explain later...So, I started with some panel beating, the rear panel had a little dip in it where the two panels joined, with a block of wood and a hammer I managed to get it flattened out nicely, then I started on the list with the brakes, one side went in fine, I worked out a method to disassemble the drivetrain that meant the mounts could be welded straight to the housing.
I just undo the bearing cups on the outside of the axle and then the axle can drop out the side allowing the brakes to slide sideways out of the caliper and lift out! Much easier!
(I have some new disc bolts ready to go in, borrowed two for another project somewhere and never put them back)
The other side was still an issue, the caliper mount had to weld on part way up the curve on the side of the housing, I was able to shave down the mount to gain some of the room back, but it wasn't enough...
So, I shaved down the brake disc!
After clean up and sanding:
Then I had room to weld in the caliper mount:
While I had the drill out to run the cables through the housing, I drilled the drain holes in the diff and frame as @The Renaissance Man suggested:
Great thinking TRM!
Then I moved on to routing the cables, I could not put them through the frame like I wanted as there needed to be enough movement to remove the diff section for servicing, if I ran the cables through the housing and into the frame I would have to remove the cable to take the diff apart, problem is, the diff needs to be apart to remove the cable in that scenario... Catch 22.
So ran the cables outside the frame, leaving enough length before the first cable guide to allow the diff to be separated far enough to loosen the cable.
I use sections of door hinges to make cable guides, it is an idea I first saw @blown240 do on his full suspension fatbike build and it is brilliant!
I place the pin back into the tubes to weld them, it helps to draw the heat away so burn through happens less and it gives you something to hold on to for tacking, then just knock it out when the welding is done, the brass on the pin protects it from weld...
Here is the first pair of guides:
Second pair half way up the frame neck:
Here is how the cables run, pretty happy with them, they will be nice, neat and unobtrusive when it is all done and painted:
Then this happened:
It was on purpose though, this was another item I forgot on the list, the headtube was off by about a degree or so, most people wouldn't have noticed, but it bugged me! So choppy, sleevy and then tacky, tacky:
Check for straight:
Weld, weld, weld:
Sand, sand, sand, and done:
Next item on the list was making the seat support, so cut out the seat pan middle:
As I finished cutting that, I turned the angle grinder off, put it down on the workbench and turned around to put down the steel section I had removed...
As my back turned the grinder suddenly sprung back to life, I dropped the steel and spun around to turn it off only for it to stop by itself.
Took me second to realise the power breaker had tripped, not only that but the switch on the grinder was in the off position!
So I did this:
Removed the switch inside and found that the rubber cover on it was ripped, not that surprising, but interesting to remember when I opened up the switch to check inside:
Those pics are after cleaning out the excess carbon!
There is meant to be two contacts at the top of that switch but they are completely missing, and looking at the scorch marks inside the cover, I am pretty sure some metal shavings got inside the switch and shorted it out, causing the grinder to run and melting the contacts in the same moment.
So I lost a lot of time figuring all that out, I do have a spare grinder but it is old and the gearbox has some play in it, (I won it for best fabrication apprentice in my state back in 1998) so I usually only use it with the wire brush attachment, but it will do to finish what I need to before I can find a new switch for the main grinder.
It was getting late and I was pretty sore, so I just did some figuring out on the tail light mounts and then packed up for the day.
The lights are held fairly tightly by the sleeves in the rear panel, so, I will remove the top flange off the light backing plates and weld in a piece of steel for the bottom flange to bolt to, that will be plenty to hold them in place, but if they get bumped it will have some give so they don't instantly smash the lenses:
So, I didn't get as much done as I would have liked, but I did get some other stuff done and the trike is looking awesome! So I am OK with the progress that happened today overall.
Bring on the next work day!
Luke.
So, turns out that switch is used in a few different grinders, unable to find one locally, but managed to find the original makers name and looked them up... They are in China (of course) but I managed to get 2 replacement switches for $1.24 each.
Cheap...
But now I have to wait for them...
No express postage option either!
Never mind, the other grinder works fine, but I have been promising myself that I would up my collection to 3, so I can run one for grinding and sanding, one for cutting and my old one for the wire brush...
Now might be the perfect time to buy the third one and use it for cutting and sanding jobs until the new switch arrives and then have the ultimate grinder set up!
Unnecessary? Maybe...
Luke.
Cheap...
But now I have to wait for them...
No express postage option either!
Never mind, the other grinder works fine, but I have been promising myself that I would up my collection to 3, so I can run one for grinding and sanding, one for cutting and my old one for the wire brush...
Now might be the perfect time to buy the third one and use it for cutting and sanding jobs until the new switch arrives and then have the ultimate grinder set up!
Unnecessary? Maybe...
Luke.
'' choppy, sleevy, tacky, tacky '' haha i love that 
nice progress!
nice progress!
That is what I was thinking!
I will give my old grinder a go, and see how bad it is, if it is ok, I will just use it until the new switch gets here, otherwise I will pick up a new one and be set for the three.
Luke.
I mean I use high amperage dimmers on my router and chop saw depending on material... Alot of my tools are "secured" by standard high amp flip switches... Not ideal by any means but no reason you couldn't hot rod it to get by... Just find a safe switch anywhere inline u can access as a trigger... Them Aussie work boots leave optional digits...So, turns out that switch is used in a few different grinders, unable to find one locally, but managed to find the original makers name and looked them up... They are in China (of course) but I managed to get 2 replacement switches for $1.24 each.
Cheap...
But now I have to wait for them...
No express postage option either!
Never mind, the other grinder works fine, but I have been promising myself that I would up my collection to 3, so I can run one for grinding and sanding, one for cutting and my old one for the wire brush...
Now might be the perfect time to buy the third one and use it for cutting and sanding jobs until the new switch arrives and then have the ultimate grinder set up!
Unnecessary? Maybe...
Luke.
Can't believe I am saying this out loud, but I did think about just bypassing the switch and using the switched powerboard to turn it on and off...
Thankfully sanity has prevailed...
So far...
Luke.
Hrmmmmm I also have some step on switches from hex shaft tools.... Got any of those to throw in line..
Squeeze the cord real tight like a garden hose, so none of the juice flows till you're ready to grind.
Merle.
sent from a banana phone...
Merle.
sent from a banana phone...
Had a good day working on the build yesterday, have not had a chance to post until now.
Finished up working at 1am, and basically showered and went to bed, spent time with family today.
Started with the removable steel seat support, using the old grinder.
It is so noisy and you can actually see the blade moving while you are cutting, but I got everything cut for the support, drilled holes to bolt the plywood seat pan to and welded it together:
As you can probably see in that pic, some of the cuts were not straight, so I decided that I needed to improve the grinder somehow.
First I decided to see if the shells could be swapped between the grinders, so I could use the motor and switch from one and the gearbox and spindle from the other, but they had a different bolt up spacing, then I remembered I had an old Makita 5" on the laundry shelves with a blown motor, so grabbed that to see if it would measure up.
It was closer but still no go.
Then I looked at the back and noticed the switch...
Same switch as my main grinder!
So, I did this:
Back in use, full steam ahead!
I then cut a hole to fit a tube through the frame from underneath:
Welded a washer on top of the tube:
Drilled and tapped an 8mm thread in the underside of that seat support and mounted it up:
The support sits on top of the crossbar that joins the braces that travel down to the diff housing and wedges under the frame at the back, so with a long hex key and an 8mm bolt:
Inserted through the tube:
The seat can be locked down tight but still be easily removed when necessary.
Then trimmed down the tail light mounts and welded in a brace to mount them to:
Here is the seat support fitted and running between them:
Next thing on the list was a place to mount a battery box and a place for the light switch. Looking inside the frame, that piece of flat bar that the braces join to above the diff is perfect for mounting a battery box to, will just glue some Velcro there, so called that done, decided to run the switch near the seat bolt hole between the brake cables:
I didn't drill the hole though, as it will be easier when the cranks and chains are off the trike after the final shakedown ride.
Next moved on to modifying the wheel covers to sit further in on the wheels, basically that just meant relieving a little on the edge for the valve stem and four spots on the back where they slide over the spokes, now they sit much further in for a nicer flush fit:
I could not find my 11/64th drill bit to drill the holes for the 5mm tap to actually mount them though, so I left that job there for the day.
Last job for the day was to fix the spike that I damaged when driving the bottom bracket mounting tube over the sleeve to join it to the frame, simply added some weld and sanded it back smooth:
I believe that was the last bit of welding for the entire build!
Good thing too, check out the level in my gas bottle:
Eeek!
Still refills are cheap enough, did not want the cost just at the moment though as I just spent more than I should have on a set of wheels for my wifes car, what can I say, they were half the price they should have been, the guy was willing to deliver them (he lives over 2 hours away below Melbourne but is travelling past my place on the weekend to a swap meet) and they are the exact ones I have been wanting, I was buying them even if I had to borrow from my bike fund!
So, here is the list at the end of the day:
Picked up the headlight today, so that should be easy, there will be enough gas if it needs adjustment to suit the build, but I don't think it will.
Bought a new 11/64" drill bit, so I can bolt those wheel covers on next time and call them finished.
Then it is time spent with saw and plywood to make the panels, after that comes the fun although slightly-scary-because-of-the-wasted-money-and-time-with-a-rapidly-approaching-deadline-if-I-mess-it-up painting stage!
Luke.
Finished up working at 1am, and basically showered and went to bed, spent time with family today.
Started with the removable steel seat support, using the old grinder.
It is so noisy and you can actually see the blade moving while you are cutting, but I got everything cut for the support, drilled holes to bolt the plywood seat pan to and welded it together:
As you can probably see in that pic, some of the cuts were not straight, so I decided that I needed to improve the grinder somehow.
First I decided to see if the shells could be swapped between the grinders, so I could use the motor and switch from one and the gearbox and spindle from the other, but they had a different bolt up spacing, then I remembered I had an old Makita 5" on the laundry shelves with a blown motor, so grabbed that to see if it would measure up.
It was closer but still no go.
Then I looked at the back and noticed the switch...
Same switch as my main grinder!
So, I did this:
Back in use, full steam ahead!
I then cut a hole to fit a tube through the frame from underneath:
Welded a washer on top of the tube:
Drilled and tapped an 8mm thread in the underside of that seat support and mounted it up:
The support sits on top of the crossbar that joins the braces that travel down to the diff housing and wedges under the frame at the back, so with a long hex key and an 8mm bolt:
Inserted through the tube:
The seat can be locked down tight but still be easily removed when necessary.
Then trimmed down the tail light mounts and welded in a brace to mount them to:
Here is the seat support fitted and running between them:
Next thing on the list was a place to mount a battery box and a place for the light switch. Looking inside the frame, that piece of flat bar that the braces join to above the diff is perfect for mounting a battery box to, will just glue some Velcro there, so called that done, decided to run the switch near the seat bolt hole between the brake cables:
I didn't drill the hole though, as it will be easier when the cranks and chains are off the trike after the final shakedown ride.
Next moved on to modifying the wheel covers to sit further in on the wheels, basically that just meant relieving a little on the edge for the valve stem and four spots on the back where they slide over the spokes, now they sit much further in for a nicer flush fit:
I could not find my 11/64th drill bit to drill the holes for the 5mm tap to actually mount them though, so I left that job there for the day.
Last job for the day was to fix the spike that I damaged when driving the bottom bracket mounting tube over the sleeve to join it to the frame, simply added some weld and sanded it back smooth:
I believe that was the last bit of welding for the entire build!
Good thing too, check out the level in my gas bottle:
Eeek!
Still refills are cheap enough, did not want the cost just at the moment though as I just spent more than I should have on a set of wheels for my wifes car, what can I say, they were half the price they should have been, the guy was willing to deliver them (he lives over 2 hours away below Melbourne but is travelling past my place on the weekend to a swap meet) and they are the exact ones I have been wanting, I was buying them even if I had to borrow from my bike fund!
So, here is the list at the end of the day:
Picked up the headlight today, so that should be easy, there will be enough gas if it needs adjustment to suit the build, but I don't think it will.
Bought a new 11/64" drill bit, so I can bolt those wheel covers on next time and call them finished.
Then it is time spent with saw and plywood to make the panels, after that comes the fun although slightly-scary-because-of-the-wasted-money-and-time-with-a-rapidly-approaching-deadline-if-I-mess-it-up painting stage!
Luke.
