Metrorat No.22 (MBBO.4 class 1)

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LukeTheJoker said:
Banana seats can be really bad if they don't have enough padding... :blackeye:

Luke.
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Yer it was on a custom lowrider I bought many years ago it was originally a polished steel show seat but the guy I got it from covered it with that shag but with no padding

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I'm thinking a small chunk of magnesium mounted under the bent end of that rear guard would throw mad sparks when you do a wheelie.
Just try not to ignite the sheepdog seat cover.:rockout:
 
using original stem,I tried the lawnmower bars and they are way too big and over the top so am using original mild ape bars for now

IMG_3213_zpscja5rq1n.jpg

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lowered front guard,raised the banana seat to make it practical to ride,I couldnt turn the pedals,even my 9 year old son couldnt turn the crank without kneeing himself on the face,dont have any smaller cotterpin cranks so the slammed look i like will have to wait
 
Falstaff said:
I think I have a cotter pin set. What size are you looking for.
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I have plenty of the pins just not the right crank size,most cotter pin cranks are on english/euro bikes here in New Zealand and they are either adult cranks (185mm arms/at least a 44t ring) or little kids cranks (145mm arms/22t ring) but nothing in the middle which would be a 165mm arm and around 38t ring,thats what I am after but this is a no stress/dollar build for me so thanx for the offer but I will use what ever I have or comes my way,this is the first build that I am not in control of how it will end up,I guess its an experiment on myself to see what happens when it is built entirely of "on a whim"building,I put it on I like it,it stays if I dont,it comes off:rockout: no rules man
 
I have found you can retro fit the square taper style cranks into those cotter pin BB's without any worries, might open up some options for you... ;)
We have the same issue with vintage bikes here in Australia, so I just decided to try it one day...

Luke.
 
LukeTheJoker said:
I have found you can retro fit the square taper style cranks into those cotter pin BB's without any worries, might open up some options for you... ;)
We have the same issue with vintage bikes here in Australia, so I just decided to try it one day...

Luke.
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yup I have been down that road in the past,I got the left side off the donar raleigh bike but had to drill out the pin on the right side as even tho I let it soak for 2 days,I even use a small socket and leave the bolt on as to not round out or flatten the threads,so dicided not to worry about the crank swap as I have bad luck with cotter cranks
 
raised the B seat lowered the front guard,working out how I will mount the bracket as the guard is just floating there at the moment,as you can see the raised seat gives more pedal room,gonna have to find taller bars tho
IMG_3233_zpsmf5dxvot.jpg
 
morrison industries made the raleigh bikes in New Zealand
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original retailer of this particular bike?
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I am going to keep both on the frame and sand around them and keeping the original twist clamp seat binder
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yup loosened the nut a bit,started bashing,no luck,remove nut and bashed with 12mm diameter 10inch long bolt,didnt work,next was the hole punch and bigger hammer,no luck just started to sink into the pin,last resort 11 cheap/warn drill bits later and success
 
Yeah, that sounds like my last time I used cotter pin cranks, now I just get the grinder with a cut off disc out, cut off one side, unscrew it all and replace it with a square taper version...

Luke.
 
LukeTheJoker said:
Yeah, that sounds like my last time I used cotter pin cranks, now I just get the grinder with a cut off disc out, cut off one side, unscrew it all and replace it with a square taper version...

Luke.
Click to expand...
yer done that before successfully but knowing my luck these pins will give me grief
so will leave them on even tho everything else came off so easily for an old ruster
 
well I have done a little more work on it,chain guard is back on,newer old chain is on,the old one would have suited better for the rusty look but its integrity looks like it could be compromised very easily,have put on the fork stopper that stops the steering from turning right around(first I have ever seen such a device,only turns 180 degree's)pic's up soon
 

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