Mr. Goodyear-actual photos

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Re: Mr. Goodyear

I am unable to find my big 5-spoke sprock, truss bracket, and various other old time goodies, but I did find a free 26x1.75 10 speed. I used that to liberate the Hystop and drive sprocket from ol' droppy,and put my tank tins and oiler wheel back in the closet for now. As soon as I can come up with a camera, I'll set up a basic "werx" bike, then I have 'til August to figure how it should be "rat"ified.
 
Re: Mr. Goodyear

dude, that's a great lookin' start ya got.
i aint got much, but if ya need parts i cant be more that 30 minutes from you.
 
Re: Mr. Goodyear

Appreciate the offer, coming up with a creative edge is probably going to a bigger challenge than parts. I see you're starting with similar vintage. You anywhere near the W&OD?
 
Re: Mr. Goodyear

ATTN> specious crank photo dropped for actual build photos

Now some dry text for those who like to read:

The square-sided 7" crank depicted does not feed through the hanger on this bike.The crank from "ol' droppy" slid right in, but was too narrow, not only for centering, but to even put a locknut on WITHOUT an isolation washer. A dirty 3-speed shed find at my mom's house had one just right! :) Strangely, the narrow one fit the 3-speed, minus an extra spacer it had before. Now I remember why I used to have buckets of these things stashed

The overly long straightish BMX type fork is outta there. I was whining about it when a friend reminded me that one of the green girl's schwinnspeeds to come through here lately was a 26". There behind a stack 27's +700's(rims), looking practically new, 1 slimline solid fork, complete w/chrome headset+crown cover, just the thing for this build. As ever, HVAC metal tape is used to "shim" schwinn race to standard caged bearing frame. The centering on this fork is not 100%, the wheel I've got IS, flipping the wheel achieves nothing. A washer and locknut added to the left axle end, and the wheel planes perfectly! After I move the shaft over to match on the outside only those read it here will ever know. A new seatpost and gold ano chain were obtained from the only rat friendly bike shop in my immediate area, Bike Club-2 miles from my house. $30.00 decent price for this area. Pictures of finished prototype later this week, more specs.
 
Re: Mr. Goodyear

There are only 2 mechanical issues to resolve. Instead of the shabby spacer solution to my fork imperfection, I'm going to clamp the left leg(right side of pic) to a bench and coax it over 3/8".

bike%202%20001.jpg


I am resolved to make a bike w/o a rack, so the brake mount hole I made long ago will be filled.

bike%202%20003.jpg


Wheel and drive lines up perfectly, runs smoothly, and is geared well for me around here.

sml2006.jpg


The prototype:

bike%202%20008.jpg


Now it's time for nonfunctional changes, such as a little judicial application of some different paint colors. Maybe lose the chrome fork cap if I happen to find an old timey seat and/or sprocket, maybe not. Maybe different rubber, or blacking out labels, maybe not.
 
Prototype build sheet:

Columbia frame from late '50's or very early '60's last century barn find-free.
Blasting and priming-a couple of beers.
Fork, headset, front brake, lever, handle bar, grips, bell, front wheel, seat, kickstand, salvaged through the years from trash bikes-free.
Rear wheel, sprockets,crank bearings and races, pedals, gooseneck, reflector and bracket, swapped off my beater,-essentially free
Street tires, tubes, swapped off my Mongoose,-essentially free.
Crank arm swapped from free old 3-speed-free
Burgundy Rustoleum,-$4.00
New long 13/16" seatpost,-$15.00
New KMC gold drive chain-$15.00
Fresh roll metal HVAC tape-$3.00
 
Well, since I have a deeply imbedded aversion to putting stuff on my bikes that doesn't do anything, I'm toying with the idea of using my tank as a tool box. While looking at it and deciding it looks kind of silly w/my current set up, PROING! The rear wheel, straightened and restraightened over many years of hard use, has gone and split a nipple. I know it will be tough because this thing is dimpled and rings like strings above the nut. I've even bottomed threads and ground off spoke ends, but I haven't had to mess with it for some time. Tight wheels tend to maintain their shape. I've got an MTB front someone threw out 'cause it's quick release is rusted solid into the axle, it's only a three cross, so the length should be close. In point of fact, it's just barely long enough, cool deal! After clipping out the old spoke, and slipping in the other,and about 5 minutes of fighting tension and rust, I realize this wheel is done, there's not enough left of the old spokes left to get it right. If I have to lace a wheel anyway, that old step through 3-speed has seen it's day. I kind of wanted to do it anyway, but until now I wasn't sure about having spokes, and I'm pretty lazy when I'm not getting paid.
 
that sounds like what happend when i folded sensor's wheel when i was tensioning it. as for puting odd things on bikes that is cool i just like to change what the part does. and a tool box is totally needed on a bike
 
I figured I better check the fit before I started unlacing the 3-speed, after all, it's from a complete working bike."DOH!" :? Even if I take all the lock nuts + spacers off, it's 1/2" wider than my dropouts, and the sprocket's practically touching the chainstay. Tried to re-lace the Hystop with the spokes I was going to use, they're just a little too short for 4-cross and way too long for 3. I had a lot more parts +patience half a lifetime ago. Oh well. :| Here are my choices: spend a few more dollars that I don't really have. Nope. Make Outlaw happy by switching my build to the step-thru. Not in this lifetime, I'd rather get paddle whacked. :wink: Maybe if I was only 5' tall. Use my New Departure, even though I never found my 52t front cog. Pedaling like a BMXer trapped on the interstate doesn't appeal to me, ain't gonna happen. Use the 10-spd. stuff I just put on the beater. Noisy, sloppy, Falcon dime-store junk, no thank you. Last resort, what I'll probably do - since I only pedal it 10' or so, and it'll give good leverage on the brake, put the New Dep. and matching front on my motorized Pacific "Schwinn", and put it's fresh alloy set on Mr. Goodyear. 8)
 
I like the idea of the minimalistic approach, JMO....I'm actually using a tank, fenders and a guard this build off! I'm glad Steve "added" the software for picture size, because yours are the first pics I've seen come up LIFSIZE! :lol: Be proud if OUTLAW threatens to have you "whacked"...That's the NEW standard for coolness this year.
 
I hope my self-imposed standards don't come across as cycle snobbery or disrespect for artistic endeavors, functional or otherwise. I don't extend my requirements to other people's bikes. I like all kinds of cool stuff that I have no intention of imitating for my own use. To quote the philosopher,"I like where these builds are going!".
 
just build what you love and leave it at that. i have traditions with my builds most dont have chain guards or fenders. but then again the last two build off bikes did have chain guards but like you say about being artistic they were both deals where the parts i had were so cool not using them would have been a shame. as for getting whacked yea if you not in the "lumped" club your just not cool. actually i dont think i am in that club yet so once again i am tragically un-cool 8) cant wait to see what your up to with your bike good luck!!
 
Sometimes things just work out. The wider old steel let the ww2.125" tire that came on the "Schwinn" fill out at the bead, just clears the drive belt, the hub/gear fit the chain(I've got room for another link)and is MUCH sturdier, brake wise especially. As for my project, the street tires have regained a normal profile on the narrower MTB rim type that they were designed for, the bike is at least 1 1/2 lbs lighter 8) 8) and only one wrench needed for patchkit. 8) 8) 8)
Added spacers to front steel on donor, replacing thick locknuts w/ thin on project/alloy whl. I need to file the fork dropouts to fit full 8) size axle in front. I just love working with straight frames and centered wheels. :)
 

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