Mrs Robinson

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Next up was removing the headbadge. Same method, sweat penetrating oil repeatedly. These screws are tiny! I used a precision screwdriver and gently twisted back & forth. They came out with no complaint.

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Put it all away for the day. The chain has been ultrasonically cleaned and is in the Evapo-rust. It is coming out in real good condition. I got the pedals off, the caps came off with minimal extra effort and there is still ancient grease in them. The crank arms took a lot of effort but they are off. I used to work on English bikes and have a high quality cotter press from them days. Replacing damaged cotters is not fun or easy to get right so the tool has been worth the cost. The fender came off with no fuss and has no damage or weakness anywhere. The seat stays have tapped holes for the fender though the screws were missing. There are tapped holes near the bottom of the seat tube for the skirt guard. I'll install stainless screws in both locations. All that is left to teardown is remove the fork and crank spindle.

The more I work on this bike the more mindblown I get. The craftsmanship and quality of this bike are top shelf. The precision of the parts I would not have expected with the tooling available when it was built. I am seriously considering tossing the budget aside and having some of the parts re-plated.

Here is the cotter press hard at work

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The chain is done. I pulled it out of the Evaporust and it was ready to rinse and lube. It is the chain that Horsefarmer mentioned in an earlier post. The center of each block is hollow and has a felt pad for oil impregnation and most of the felt pads are still in there. The center blocks are also coated black. The link next to the master is stamped "Pat March 10, 91" . I am so happy with the way it came out, almost like new, especially when compared to the earlier picture of it. Once again, the quality of the manufacturing shows, lesser steel would not have cleaned up like this.

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I started applying penetrating oil to the race/adjustment cone on the bottom bracket. For whatever reason I grabbed it, gave it a twist, and it started turning. It came off with no tools used. Bearings were only lightly rusty, a few showed no rust at all. I started oiling the steering headset yesterday. I lightly grabbed it with channel-locks (it is a large nut, my wrench that size is in my box at work) and it started turning. I got the fork off and it has some handwritten numerals on it. Now the frame is completely stripped of parts. The seat post bore measured 17/32" so that is going to be challenging to locate a rod to make one. Anyways, here are a couple of photos of this evenings progress.

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I finally found a picture of this model to work from, an 1889 that sold for $9440 at Copake last year. Mine is almost the same with a couple of notable exceptions, condition being one, When pneumatic tires were introduced, the front suspension suspension was no longer offered. The Copake bike has a seat binder, mine has a fixing screw from behind the seatpost. Beyond that I see no difference. I was beginning to wonder if it was a childs frame, the seattube measures 15 inches, but now I can clearly see how this is a adult ladies frame. There are step through frames made earlier than these bikes but they are tall frames for older men. The first known public ride by women was in February of 1888 in Washington D.C..

I found and ordered 36" of 17/32" round stock to fabricate the seatpost. I also have wood grips and the tallest stem I could locate (10") ordered. Finding handlebars that would look the part has been challenging but I think I found them. The crankarms are soaking in Evaporust and should be clean tomorrow morning. Somewhere around 20% of the original paint is visible so the Mrs is probably going to get an OA bath soon, that will be the deciding factor on whether I do a repaint or patina preserve.

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Love that leading arm.
And both brakes operated by one lever
The brake is rear only. I haven't seen any other rear mounted spoon brake bikes in my searches, all have been front brake. The frame lugs are cast with bosses that has been drilled & tapped for the pivots and there are pivot mounts under the bottom bracket. I needed that photo above to give me guide for fabricating the parts, but that will come after the fact of getting it riding again.

I'm going to clean the frame tonight in a hot tank parts washer to get a better look at the metal surfaces. The looser rust will be removed.

I am also going to start working over the hubs to get them ready to lace up. The OG spokes have all been tied and soldered where they cross, front and rear.
 
The grips arrived, Handmade wood & leather 3.75" long. Picking parts for this bike is time consuming. There was a fad some time ago of dutch bikes which had the potential to make easy pickins for parts selection but that fad seems to have faded away and all of the parts went with it. I finally found a set of bars, after looking at hundreds it seems, that look to capture the spirit of this build. They are somewhere in America working there way to me.

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Mrs Robinsons progress is moving along. I have been cleaning the small parts in Evapo-rust, my ultrasonic tank, and a heated parts washer which can all be pretty time consuming. The results have been good, mostly exceeding my expectations. The biggest issue is the nickle plating is almost completely gone on everything. I'm gong to look into chrome powdercoating on the small stuff as there aren't any platers near me and I don't want to turn the old gal into a money pit either. I'm also going to have the frame and forks media blasted to save some handwork, it will be painted in black enamel.
 
I cut the hubs out of the spokes and did the initial cleanup. They are in excellent mechanical condition. I needed to run a thread chaser on one side of the front axle but it wasn't that bad. Measuring them and ordering spokes is next up. The handlebars arrived today and they look perfect for it.

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After researching the subject, I'm going to attempt nickle plating the parts myself. I found this Instructable and ordered some 99.9% pure nickle plates and a low voltage power supply. Comments behind the article generally conclude good results by carefully following the directions. I should be up and running with less than $60 invested. I DIY'ed some copper plating before and it turned out good. The largest parts I need to plate are the crank arms and headset assembly, those might require several applications to get good uniform coverage. If this method works it will save me mucho dollars on future builds too.
 
It was a messy weekend for me and Mrs Robinson. After deciding to DIY nickle plate I went back to cleaning parts that will be plated to get them ultra clean. I purchased a different brand of rust remover and soaked parts followed by a quick dip in the ultrasonic tank until no clouds appeared coming off the surfaces. I still have a lot to do, it is a slow process. Prior to plating, the parts will be treated to reverse electrolysis in pure vinegar for about 30 seconds to remove any last impurities.

While that was going on, I decided to clean the frame, fork, and fender using electrolysis. The advantage to this method is it does not disturb the non-rusted metal at all and it also removes any rust inside the tubes that are open. In a large tub I made a water and sodium carbonate solution and hung a scrap steel anode in the solution, negative lead to the parts being cleaned. It is also a slow process. The fork is finished and in a light coat of primer, the frame is roughly 50% completed, the fender will be done last. I didn't take any photos because I didn't want to take any chances of messing up my fairly new phone.
 
While cleaning things up and prepping the old girl for paint and polish a couple more things of interest have popped up. At the seattube, there are a couple of plugs. As the rust is being removed I noticed the edges were serrrated so I started heating, oiling, and gently tapping on them. With some gentle persuasion they unscrewed out of the lug. They show traces of being plated when built. The seatpost fixing bolt was also plated. This is going to be beautiful after it has been painted and re-plated. The plugs are going through the cleaning process now. The chainstay tubes have cork pressed into them at the bottom bracket.

The bottom bracket inner bearing cups refuse to budge so rather than risk damaging them, I am going to work with and around them in place.

I have also been finding the number "5275" stamped all throughout the bike and components. I found a copy of an original 1892 Pope parts manual that states when ordering parts to include the part number, what machine, and its factory number leaving no doubt that Mrs Robinson is Pope Mfg bicycle number 5275

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