My (new to me) coaster hub

[hatake]

Hi, first time posting here, I admire all of your creations!

I recently picked up 1950-something Ohino built AMF Shelby, and trying to work on the coaster hub as the first project. But this thing looks different from the overhaul guide in Park Tool web site. I'm wondering if anyone have any pointers (tools and things to watch out, etc) how I should tackle this crusty hub... I have pretty much all tools for post-90s bikes and components, but hardware on this bike looks very different from tools that I already have. It's a generic hub. Thanks for any inputs!

 

[udallcustombikes]

I believe the hub is a Perry Two Star. I got one like your a while back and opened it up to see what it was. I am not 100% sure since it was a while back. If it isn't like the one in the link post some pics of the guts and we will get you the info you need.

 

[hatake]

Cameron, thanks a bunch for your informative post. I can't wait for the weekend!

 

[hatake]

I finally had a couple of hours today so started taking the rear hub apart. Spokes are not damaged, just totally loose. I'll probably just true them but may just leave the rust on rims as they kind of shows patina (right?). Rear wheel currently doesn't turn smoothly at all.

Started from taking the fixing arm side off as Cameron's suggestion. Other side is the cone, so it is right on. With fixing arm off, the whole internal comes out. Old, dirty waterly oil is still there.

Surprisingly friction material is still in a good shape. It's just the whole thing has years of gunks crusted on every single parts.

Carefully remove braking unit apart from drive unit. At this point I was very impressed with so many moving parts secured with just a couple of C-clips, and how each pieces are made with precisions and ingenuity, interconnecting to other parts to function as a drive-and-brake unit. Impressive. Today's free hub and bearing system are a whole a lot simpler, lighter, and perhaps reliable. But these things are really well thought out. And 50 years later they still work.

Holly batman pitted cone! Nothing I can do about it, so I'll just have to roll with it.

Each parts took goo-gone bath twice before alcohol bath. Old toothbrush works really good - I recycle all toothbrush in my household for this reason only.

The hub has 2 units of roller bearings - 6 on drive engagement unit, and 2 on brake unit. These bearings are in a pretty good shape, just dirty.

All assembled back with grease. I wasn't sure exactly which parts should be greased so I just did it all. My WTB hubs only need a dab of prep-M on ratcheting plate as it tends to stick and takes more effort to release engagement when back pedaled. But with this one, I figured the more the merrier. Braking surface, I presume, will take less viscous oil I'm sure...

Took a couple of hours but it was fun. Mounted on a stand and it spins nicely (I can feel pitted cone...) now. It'll do for now. There was absolutely no marking on parts whatsoever, so I still don't know who made it. A nice piece of hardware though.

 

[dougfisk]

Like Udall said above, it looks like a Perry, The Perries I have are generally marked made in England. I suppose the design could have been licensed for manufacture elsewhere but I don't know this. Even in the 50's, foreign manufactured parts were cheaper than those made in US. Perry is the earliest foreign manufactured coaster hub I am aware of, used by Schwinn and others in the mid-fifties. In my experience they are one of the best at coasting, but a little weak at braking. The effect in practice of the bad cone will probably be a little rumble or howl when rolling. Let us know how it works.

 

[B607]

That's the first bike hub I've ever seen that had roller bearings. Gary

 

[c.p.odom]

The use of roller bearings is deceiving. These rollers are part of a friction clutch system. In use they do not roll but forced to bind against the inside of the shell.

 

[hatake]

As cpodom said, the roller bearings rides up the center of the bearing lace which is raised, to bind and lock up the clutch to transfer the sproket rotation onto the axle. Pretty nifty stuff.

Rust on rims are wide spread, and I wasn't successful at scrubbing it off nicely. I just want a pair of wheels that don't turn my hands brown every time I touch it. Inspected all spoke and nipples - all in good shape. It's just chromed rim that's spewing out rust. Inside the rim is in far worse shape, but I figured I can just put some tape on after I build the wheel. 36 holes, so none of my other parts can be used. Nipples are quite longer than what I have, so much more threads, I resorted to my hand drill to take the the wheel apart.

Got it pretty!

Chains - mmm, so I just figured old bikes have longer pitch chains. More reason for me to complete cleaning and restoration of all parts hanging on this bike, since I can't use any parts from my stash like usual. But the hub is done. Thanks all for your kind advises.

 

[deorman]

The hub pictured uses 1/2"x 1/8" chain, standard for coaster brake bikes, even now. :|

 

[Fahrrad]

I had one that came off an old Monkey Wards bike, but it did not have markings either, but looked identical to yours inside and out. Post up if you ever find out for sure.