n8r's Beast Build

n8r · Dec 14, 2013

So I just got a Blue Beast today. I'm not going to post a pic yet cause it is all stock and looks like any other Beast and there are a million pics of those online already. I've got a few parts on order and I'll post pics when I start the build. Here is a list of my build plan:

Stage 1- Rigid & Geared

- Origin8 Devast8ter 26 x 4 tires, $70
- Change Seat, post, stem, bars, grips, pedals and cranks ( triple ring), all free from my parts bin
- Add 3x9 shifters and deraliures, free from parts bin
- Relace wheels with Wheel Master 135mm front disc hub and modified/widened 135mm to 190mm rear disc hub re-using stock spokes, $54 ( $27 each hub)
- Add BB7 disc brakes, free parts bin
- Drill out rims to lighten, free

Total cost: $350 including bike purchase

Stage 2- Hardtail

- Modify Fox Vanilla 32 130mm travel front fork to make it a hardtail. This will be done by cutting off the aluminum crown and welding/fabricating and old school style chromoly steel crown that clamps onto the stantion tubes. I will also have to widen the arc brace which shouldn't be to hard. I measured all the geometry and the HT angle should be perfect.

Stage 3- Full Suspension

- Fabricate swing arm and linkage and add air shock for 6" travel. I wan't to run this for a while to see how a 6" travel fatbike does.

Stage 4- High clearance super long travel Full suspension

- Increase front and rear travel to 12" and raise bottom bracket height to make a high clearance bike. I've made and ridden a 12" travel bike before and it makes a huge difference over even 8-9". So much more plush and soaks up little bumps much better. This will be an expedition/exploring/bikepacking bike, not a racing bike. The high BB will allow greater obstacle and snow pedal strike clearance.

So this is my plan. Stages 2-4 won't be started until probly next spring/summer. Stage's 1-2 I'll start within the next few weeks. I'll update this thread as I progress. Thanks to everyone on here who has modded their Beast's thus far and made it easier for others to follow suit. These are cool bikes. I hope to contribute as well.

LukeTheJoker · Dec 14, 2013

Looking forward to it!

Luke.

nito900rr · Dec 14, 2013

Sounds like it's gonna be a sweet ride when done!

sent from planet earth

n8r · Dec 18, 2013

A quick update: Well, I took the Beast out today for a little ride after going through it, regreasing, swaping cranks and running 24f/18r gearing. I must say, this bike absolutely SUCKS in stock form even geared down to where I have it. Single speed + coaster brake is, as Charles Barkley would say, terrible, terrible, terrible. The Stock tires SUCK. Heavy, heavy, heavy. The steering flop SUCKS, bad. As is, this bike is not really rideable. There is another HUGE design flaw that I'm surprised I haven't heard people complain about and that is front tire wheel hitting your toes while pedaling and turning. The BB is way too far forward and needs to be at least 2" back.
I have a set of Origin8 Devasta8tor tires coming as well as new disc hubs to lace up disc wheels. Once I get those all put on I'll re-assess the bike but at this point I don't think I'm going to follow through with my original plan. It's just not worth it to me, now that I think about it, to put so much time into this bike and fix the screwed up geometry and BB. By the time I do all that I might as well build my own high quality lightweight frame from scratch, which is what I'm actually going to do now instead. I'm just going to complete stage 1 and then keep this bike as my spare bike for other people to ride after I get my own frame design built.

n8r · Dec 19, 2013

I found a set of brandnew Kevlar Origin8 Devast8tor tires locally for $15 each so I canceled my Amazon order for them. I lucked out and got a set of the good light Kevlar bead ones and they have and actual weight each of 1600-1630 grams, I weighed them. Anyway, the Beast rides much better with them than the stock tires, way more supple. The wheel flop is still there but not as bad or annoying. Another good thing is the tires are 3/4" shorter so the front tire doesn't hit my toes nearly as much. Once I lengthen the fork the wheel flop and toe strike issues will be resolved. All in all, I'm a lot happier with the beast now just from swapping tires and it is ridable in the snow at least, can't feel wheel flop in the snow, just on pavement and grippy surfaces really. Weight is right at 40 lbs.

n8r · Dec 30, 2013

I got my rear disc brake and rear gears on the bike. I copied Blown240's idea and put a 42 T chainring on the rear cassette. I did it different though and just TIG welded a steel chainring to a 28T sprocket. Was super easy. Works awesome. The Beast has a lower mounting spot for the derailure than a regular bike so there is no cog rubbing with the derailure. I'm using a friction shifter. Not planning on running a front derailure, no need with this gearing.
I decided the BB is way too low and 2" too far forward on this bike for me so I'm going to widen a BB from a donor frame and weld it behind the seat post on top of the chainstays without cutting the frame at all, just welding and gusseting. Will be very simple. I'll probly just leave the original BB in place or may trim and plate it to look better. Next I need to lengthen the front fork, lace up front disc hub and weld disc mount to fork. Still need to clean up brake and shifter cables too.