New to me Higgins.. any info?

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Here is a new one I picked up. Was told it was a 1953 Murray made Higgins.. any input?

All has been taken apart since these pictures and greased and put back. Having a helluva time with the wide 3" tires rubbing... may got to a standard 24" size tire and not such a fattie. Also has a homemade seatpost made out of a socket :)

Thanks all!

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Is the tire rubbing on the fork (from the pic) or the frame? My 56 Higgins frame takes a 24 x 3 without issue.

On the fork, since it appears to be a Schwinn-style springer, you should be able to put some spacers at the bottom where it's rubbing (you'll need a longer bolt) You will also have to put accompanying spacers (and bolt) at the U-Shaped crown to keep the legs parallel.

Hope I'm correct and this makes sense.


Cheers,
Dr. T
 
Makes perfect sense. The hubs both front and rear probably need some major adjusting anyhow. I didn't have a cone wrench to take the front off.. rear was serviced w/o issue. I didn't think about the fork bolt, assuming a longer one could be put in there with spacers. That is exactly where it's rubbing.

The frame was stretched with those rear spacers and I think because the two plates that were made don't sit exactly parallel to one another causes a wobble effect. The back rubs on the rear triangle.

What do you use for spacers? Rubber or washers?

Thanks

jason
 
Thanks.

Any idea on seat post? I heard 21.1 from someone... but the PO attached a longer socket onto the seat and it fits perfectly into the post and works great but i'd like to replace it with something that is more user friendly.
 
Not sure what the seat post size is (I'm using the original post so far, but if i had to guess I'd say it's 7/8". Tell you what, if I ever get out of work today, I'll try to install my post on a Schwinn frame I have, I know it's 13/16".

Cheers,
Dr. T
 
Thanks!

I pulled the socket that was in there (great idea BTW) and it's a 15mm but It would be easier to know what works for that frame before I go buying different sizes.
 
Nice looking ride…..I have a 51 (The Higgins in my signature), 54 and 56. Interesting that the 51 and 54 have just enough clearance to run 24X3, but the ’56 is just a little too tight. I could make it work fairly easily, but I think I am going to use Fat Franks on the ’56. I also have a ’54 CWC Western Flyer frame and it has the most clearance of them all.

Part of the rub in the back might be your tires. I use the ThickBricks which are more rounded on the tread. I’ve never compared, but the Thickbricks look like they might be slightly narrower at the tread than some of the other branded 24X3.
 
Rustinkerer said:
MOS-U= 1955 frame, a 53 would be stamped MOS-S. -Adam

Hey man...not doubting you, but that is different than a date code list I saw posted on the other site. Where are you getting your info? I'd like to find a good source of dating these Murray built frames!
 
So...... sorry for the crappy quick pics but I wanted to point out the tires that are on already, Kenda's - no model.

The sidewall does seem to be aggressive and not very rounded. Seems like it would take A LOT of fiddling and adjustment to make them roll smoothly thru the frame. A little tedious
.

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Terry66 said:
Rustinkerer said:
MOS-U= 1955 frame, a 53 would be stamped MOS-S. -Adam

Hey man...not doubting you, but that is different than a date code list I saw posted on the other site. Where are you getting your info? I'd like to find a good source of dating these Murray built frames!

If you're referring to the Murray serial # thread from 2009 on the Cabe, they were guessing on the years. Cabe member ABC Services reprinted a 1959 Western Auto bike parts & accessories manual last year. It has the Murray date code list I use. It also corresponds to the 4 digit (usually 4500 or 4700) series Sears catalog numbers sometimes stamped under the Murray code. I think the later 60s codes in the Cabe thread are more accurate, as there are more 60s muscle bikes around to compare years to codes. -Adam
 

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