Nexus 3 speed hub w/ chain tensioners???

[Mike G]

So at every turn I encounter something that just reinforces my "Newb" status in this bicycle realm, looking to alleviate this when possible...

On the "Worksman RS", which as a Nexus 3 speed hub on the rear with Fat Frank tires, I'd like to use BMX chain tensioners. My rationale for this is due to the "Franks" are really pushing the clearance with the axle all the way front in the drop outs, like to go with the chain tensioners to force the axle closer to the rear of the drop outs, thus squeaking out a smidge more clearance. There's an aesthetic appeal to going this route as well... at least as far as I'm concerned.

My question is, are there any considerations I need to keep in mind in going this route with a Nexus 3 speed hub, particularly on the bell crank side?

Thanks in advance,
Mike G.

 

[bikejunky]

The thinner the tensioner the better. You might have to adjust your shift cable so it works properly.


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[Bicycle808]

I agree that thinner is better; i think the anti-rotation washer will be the biggest issue. I'm thinking that, even thought chain tugs are best used on the DS, you might just wanna slap one one the NDS and just tighten'r down real good. Add a linkset, too. The INB has some long ends on it; definitely helps with tire clearance and wheelbase....

 

[PedalBite]

I think you may run into problems. BMX tensioners fit perfect in a BMX dropout, have you looked into something like the prewar cruisers have? They have a kind of set screw setup.

 

[Bicycle808]

This is on a Worksman frame. I run bmx tensioners on a coupla different Worksman.

 

[PedalBite]

I now have a fresh visual and the drop outs are a little different than I remember. I say run with them.

 

[Bicycle808]

My concern is, the Nexus takes anti-rotation washers:

These go to the outside of the dropout, and they'd need to be inboard of any chain tensioner. And, they're pretty fat, so depending on the design of the tensioner, the screws (or whatever other bit is used) might not line up with the ends of the dropouts, which would make them pretty much usueless for tensioning, as they wouldn't have anything to push up against...

If you can find a bmx tensioner that will work despite being pushed out a few mm from flush, you're good to go. Otherwise, the anti-rotation washer is required for the hub to run correctly, so if you can only run one or the other, the washer trumps the tensioner...