I am humming right along with my Klunker build, which I am using a Worksman M2600(large) frame. I am having an issue with the Nexus hub though? The frame has rear facing dropouts that slant downwards, and it's driving me nuts trying to pick the right non turn washers for it. When the shifting mechanism is sitting straight with the chainstay, it "looks" like I need an 8L and 8R. Has anyone put a Nexus hub in a later model Worksman frame? At some point they went from a horizontal rear facing, to the angled downward style. To me it looks like they just turned the dropouts over and started brazing them in that way instead.
Nexus Inter 7 speed in a Worksman frame?
- Thread starter Miguello
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I guess your question is how to index the brake arm to the chainstay?
Here is a pic of my Schwinn cruiser four that came with a 4 speed coaster brake nexus.
You can zoom the pic and see how the yellow washer on the sprocket side fits in the dropout. On mine there is only a keyed yellow washer on the sprocket side. I have no idea if different keyed washers are available (yours looks the same as mine), but perhaps you can just devise a different way to attach the brake arm?
Here is a pic of my Schwinn cruiser four that came with a 4 speed coaster brake nexus.
You can zoom the pic and see how the yellow washer on the sprocket side fits in the dropout. On mine there is only a keyed yellow washer on the sprocket side. I have no idea if different keyed washers are available (yours looks the same as mine), but perhaps you can just devise a different way to attach the brake arm?
HTH
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus-mech.html#washers
If not, here's m next-best advice:
http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/awc-ii
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus-mech.html#washers
If not, here's m next-best advice:
http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/awc-ii
Ive read all that and none of it applies to a rear facing slanted dropout. There are multiple keyed washers available but I'd rather not buy 5-6 sets only to find none of them fit. The brake arm is movable to a degree(no pun intended, lol) but the shifting mechanism will only fit where the washer tells it to. Too much in either direction and the chain will be rubbing the shifter cable.
Nah, I just built the wheel with the hub in it. I refuse to give up now. Not my first 7 speed setup either, just the first with these odd dropouts. I also view most 3 speeds as two speeds. Most of the older ones require almost superhuman endurance to sustain 3rd gear for any length of time, unless the front sprocket is smaller than average. Just my humble opinion. They are cool though, and I've had my share of them.
Yeah, Shimano doesn't make washers for those "dropouts" b/c diagonal rear-facing ends only appear on some prewar bikes and Worksman frames, so they're a pretty limited application. However, you might want to ask someone at Worksman, as they used to offer 7 speed Nexus hubs as an option.
Re: 3 speed gearing: the majority of Sturmey 3 speeds are geared at 0.75/1.0/1.33. This roughly corresponds with the second, forth, and sixth gears of a Nexus 7. With a 2:1 front/rear direct ratio, that'd give you 39", 52", and 69".... top in a Nexus 7, with the same 44/22 sprockets, would be over 80".... So, in truth, 3 speed hubs aren't geared high.... it's just many of the old-time Brit bikes had a pretty high direct gear ratio.
I'm a huge fan of the Sturmey-Archer hubs b/c they're versatile in terms of set-up, offer many shofter options, are more user-friendly to service, and most often have the best support in terms of available spare parts. The same cannot generally be said of competing contemporary IGHs.
Re: 3 speed gearing: the majority of Sturmey 3 speeds are geared at 0.75/1.0/1.33. This roughly corresponds with the second, forth, and sixth gears of a Nexus 7. With a 2:1 front/rear direct ratio, that'd give you 39", 52", and 69".... top in a Nexus 7, with the same 44/22 sprockets, would be over 80".... So, in truth, 3 speed hubs aren't geared high.... it's just many of the old-time Brit bikes had a pretty high direct gear ratio.
I'm a huge fan of the Sturmey-Archer hubs b/c they're versatile in terms of set-up, offer many shofter options, are more user-friendly to service, and most often have the best support in terms of available spare parts. The same cannot generally be said of competing contemporary IGHs.
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I haven't worked on a Shimano for awhile but the axle orientation relative to the brake arm should be the first step of assembly. is it not adjustable?
Well, with all of the bikes built here, many of which based on Worksman frames, I guess no one has ever done this. Not interested in hearing any more about three speeds, just trying to get my shifting assembly to point straight ahead. Also if the shifting assembly was pointed straight ahead, then the brake arm would be aligned with the chain stay and not the seat stay? Sorry I bothered you guys, I thought someone might be knowledgeable about this....:-(
I am now armed with a printed image of all the washers available, and will carry it out to the bike after work today. I believe the 8L and 8R are the ones I need still.
I am now armed with a printed image of all the washers available, and will carry it out to the bike after work today. I believe the 8L and 8R are the ones I need still.
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Worksman is having the same problem apparently. It kind of looks like they are using the silver horizontal dropout washer, which ends up with the same problem, shifting assembly pointing at the sky.
http://www.worksmancycles.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/media/2014/redfolder.jpg
http://www.worksmancycles.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/media/2014/redfolder.jpg
Bump for @josh_from_ga
I had 2 Worksman Industrial frames (1998 newsgirl & 2010 newsboy) and 1 Nexus hub (3-spd); I ordered both the 8L and 8R aftermarket, one is blue the other green. If I recall correctly, the Green-8L was the Good one. Also, I noticed that Nexus hubs come with different length axles; I must have a short one as not much thread remained exposed beyond the lug nut after installation, (or it could be that the after market aluminum washers have more meat than the OEM steel). Also, the spacing of the axle flats was a bit far from the left locknut, (but within mfgr's tolerance) meaning I needed either a spacer washer or to disassemble the hub and shift the axle over a 1/16". Maybe just file the axle flats some more. I noticed the Nexus hub was wider than a normal (Bendix type) coaster brake, so one frame would require some cold-setting (i.e., bending). I tried to do the math/geometry and make some sense of Sheldon's and Shimano's color tables (which did not seem to match), but for $9, I just ordered both. I thought about disassembly and rotating the brake arm, (but I forget why I did not pursue that any further).
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