Nice video about hot-rodding your CB Hub for klunking duty...

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Looks like good info, not happy with the cheapo China clone CB in my Wallyworld Huffy Premier, gonna take it apart today.
I thought video to small too see, if you click on vimeo logo in lower right, you can watch it direct @ vimeo and make it full screen. :)
 
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Looks like good info, not happy with the cheapo China clone CB in my Wallyworld Huffy Premier, gonna take it apart today.
I thought video to small too see, if you click on vimeo logo in lower right, you can watch it direct @ vimeo and make it full screen. :)

Which hub came on your premier? good chance you can conduct a guts-swap....
 
Gonna look inside an old scavenged 10" china coaster Ycb i think it says. hub is 28 spokes, but the guts when i turn the sprocket feels 100% better (less slop) Maybe I can do a guts transplant - I like the idea of adding more balls to the drive side. :giggle:
 
Gonna look inside an old scavenged 10" china coaster Ycb i think it says. hub is 28 spokes, but the guts when i turn the sprocket feels 100% better (less slop) Maybe I can do a guts transplant - I like the idea of adding more balls to the drive side. :giggle:

Yeah, i'm sorry.... i've never seen a "DC"-branded coaster hub, as far as i can recall. But try the swap anyway. Really, if the shells take the same size/number retainer bearing, it will most likely fit....Certainly won't hurt to try. I know some China-made hubs take metric axles and hardware, and i haven't tried a swap with those yet..... but if you're swapping alll of the guys, axle-included, it may not be a facor. (The other big factor being that the drive clutch will contact the hubshell in roughly the correct place....)
 
Greasing the original hub got most of the noises to stop and cut down on the drag when coasting but the hub is so sloppy the tire almost rubs the chainstays! The action on the 10" wheel coaster is much more smooth I hope they swap ok...
 
Greasing the original hub got most of the noises to stop and cut down on the drag when coasting but the hub is so sloppy the tire almost rubs the chainstays! The action on the 10" wheel coaster is much more smooth I hope they swap ok...

You got nothing to lose, except some time and possibly a bit of skin off your knuckles. I say, go for it! :grin:
 
Wow, Just got done with the CB rebuild! Success!
Started by gutting the cheapo CB from my China "Huffy Premier". I also pulled the guts out of a CYB 10" "kiddie bike". Following the Coaster Culture video.
Ground the brake shoes leading edge, and robbed loose balls out of the 2 china CB caged bearings and reassembled. It's amazing the transformation! I pulled the hub apart twice before and relube No more slop or noise!
It really does not even seem like the same hub anymore! :thumbsup:
 
Wow, Just got done with the CB rebuild! Success!
Started by gutting the cheapo CB from my China "Huffy Premier". I also pulled the guts out of a CYB 10" "kiddie bike". Following the Coaster Culture video.
Ground the brake shoes leading edge, and robbed loose balls out of the 2 china CB caged bearings and reassembled. It's amazing the transformation! I pulled the hub apart twice before and relube No more slop or noise!
It really does not even seem like the same hub anymore! :thumbsup:
Great news!
Looking forward to doing my KT in the coming days!

Luke.
 
It is kinda messy and time consuming to do it but I'm just amazed how much better the hub functions. Well worth the effort. Apparently Rob Bauer is right on - the stock bearings are too flimsy.
 
Just finished doing mine, I was going to try swap the KT guts with a Shimano B series guts, but they are quite different to the Shimano E series that the KT is based on, so I just ran the KT guts but with the modifications.

Here they are side by side, you can see the Shimano has a smaller clutch set up, it also has much shorter brake shoes:

23720914723_abc37bb85b_z.jpg


I also went a bit further than the video said with the grinding on the brake shoes as the KT shoes have lines across them instead of around them, I figured some extra lines might help distribute the grease over the shoes better:

24239502182_80ea312c29_z.jpg


I did find I could only fit 14 inner drive side bearings and 9 outer drive side bearings comfortably instead of the 15 and 10 recommended, not sure if that is a KT specific thing, but something to watch out for if you are doing it.

This is the inner with 15, you can see they just don't fit:

23979940839_6d1805f79a_z.jpg


I did manage to swap in the Shimano brake reaction arm, so at least there is no "Sidewalk use only" warning on it any more! :21:

24052166730_6accf2c853_z.jpg


Really happy with how the hub feels now, much nicer action and much smoother with a far smaller amount of movement between forward drive and reverse full brake. :thumbsup:

Edit: Decided it might need some help with cooling too:

23867713164_495dff9367_z.jpg


23869096313_fae8f36e4f_z.jpg


Luke.
 
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Luke,
I just put as many loose balls into the hub as I could when assembling it. :grin:
Went back today and counted what was left over. I used 16 inner drive side bearings and 8 outer drive side bearings. I rebuilt a "DC" hub from my Huffy Premier with ball bearings, clutch and brake shoes salvaged from a "YCC" kiddie bike. Both of the hubs I pulled apart look like the "KT" you modded.
 
Luke,
I just put as many loose balls into the hub as I could when assembling it. :grin:
Went back today and counted what was left over. I used 16 inner drive side bearings and 8 outer drive side bearings. I rebuilt a "DC" hub from my Huffy Premier with ball bearings, clutch and brake shoes salvaged from a "YCC" kiddie bike. Both of the hubs I pulled apart look like the "KT" you modded.
Cool! Maybe there is some variance in the bearing areas on the KT's, might explain the differences...

Luke.
 

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