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Thanks! The doc didn't think so...But my wife works at our county health department and the people over there said that for the most part, anybody who has the flu right now probably has the N1H1...The main reason that strain is so "dangerous" is because it's alot more contagious than other strains, not that it's any more fatal. One of the school districts in our area closed last Thursday and Friday because so many kids were out sick. :( On a happier note, I got quite a bit more stripping done last night! Now it's just all the small, hard to reach spots! My Dremel is gonna get a work-out! :lol:
 
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Ratfink1962 said:
one thing I found that works well for stripping the tight spots...

Handheld Propane torch and a wire brush. just heat it up till the paint starts smokin, then have at it with the wire brush.
Well alright! I'm gonna try that! Thanks! :mrgreen:
 
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Ratfink1962 said:
one thing I found that works well for stripping the tight spots...
Handheld Propane torch and a wire brush. just heat it up till the paint starts smokin, then have at it with the wire brush.
Dude! You ROCK!! Thanks for that tip!!! This is just as cool as when I found out about O.A. solution!! :D

Before:

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After:

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Thanks again Ratfink!! :mrgreen:
 
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No problem, glad it worked out for you. :D

for those that dont like to play with fire, a good heat gun will work also.

For the large areas that are easy to get to, I found that those Roloc scotchbrite discs mounted to a 90 degree die grinder works pretty good, and dont take a lot of time.
 
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Dizamn!! Man that came out great!
I was going to suggest the heat gun also.
On a sort of OT note (we are talking about stripping paint): A heat gun also works great if you are stripping 50+ year old house paint from house shutter slats, I know...I've done it and lived to tell about it (just fyi).
 
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The funny thing is that I've used a heat gun to strip a TON of house paint...But since I'm new to customizing bikes, it never occured to me to use heat... :? I WAS going to have the frame sandblasted, but not now!! (Maybe never...?) Question about primer: I'm going to paint this one with rattle cans. Do I need to sand the primer before I paint? Or use a high build primer? I plan to use 'Duplicolor' automotive paint...Thanks!
 
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Sanding primer is not always necessary, I usually scuff w/steel wool. Rubber gloves will keep your skin from contaminating the paint. Just make sure you clean thoroughly afterwards, and keep your greasy fingers off of visible areas.
 
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Well it depends... are you wanting to use the high build primer so that it will fill in small imprefections? if so then yes you need to sand it.

but if your just shooting primer to cover it up, then you probably dont need to sand it... unless you wait too long then you might end up with adhesion problems. For me too long depends on the product, I have used a non sanding primer before that gives you "X" amount of hours that you can re-coat or top coat without sanding. most of the time I end up sanding it anyways so its no big deal.

Since you are using rattle cans, I would suggest giving the primer at least an hour to flash off if sprayed with several thin coats, maybe more if you are spraying heavier coats. Also your drying times depends on temps and humidity.
 
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Thanks again fellas! Goin' shoppin' for primer tomorrow... :mrgreen: Now to decide on color.... 8)
 
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you should polish it with that good lookin' of metal. :wink:
 
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Ya' know....The thought crossed my mind!! :lol: I'd need to spend a little (a lot ?) more time polishing it then shoot it with clear...Hmmmm... :wink:
 
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bikeriderx said:
Question about primer: I'm going to paint this one with rattle cans. Do I need to sand the primer before I paint? Or use a high build primer? I plan to use 'Duplicolor' automotive paint...Thanks!

I'm eventually going to paint something (most of what I've done so far are restorations), but I would just scuff the primer with a Scotchbrite pad, which you can get at the auto parts or home centers. They come in different grades (I use red, 'cause that's what I have, it's what I used when scuffing primer on cars). It comforms easily to the frames and fenders.
Some people use steel wool, but the problem with that is it leave those little (microscopic) shards of steel in hard to reach places and if not thouroghly removed (cleaned) it will cause rust issues down the road (depending mostly on the humidity levels where you live).

I'm anxious to try the new Duplicolor rattle can paints, it looks like they have a lot of cool colors. From what I've seen, they have candys (or close to it), metalflakes and even color shifting paints.
 
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bikeriderx said:
Ya' know....The thought crossed my mind!! :lol: I'd need to spend a little (a lot ?) more time polishing it then shoot it with clear...Hmmmm... :wink:

I've seen it done on a couple of cars (maybe even some bikes), the trick is when you scuff the frame try to keep all your scuff marks in the same direction as each tube, then clear it. Should be a neat look. You could probably clear it and then lightly scuff the clear to knock down the shine, then it'll just look like bare metal all the time.
 
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Update: I decided to paint the bike. Now let's see what kind of painter I am! :roll: This is the inspiration:

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I hope to get the prep work done this weekend...start paint next weekend...Wish me luck!! If I can't pull off the two tone fade, I'll probably go with solid yellow...
 
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you could paint them yellow, then orange, and sand back the paint to yellow to fade it. that what they did on the tom mcmullen roadster.
 
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Thanks for the tips fellas!! :mrgreen: I got some spot putty on yesterday, after the wife and I spent 4 hours raking and bagging leaves! :x

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I'm gonna try and get that finished today...(a few more leaves and the gutters to clean... :roll: ) then primer and try my hand at paint!
Later...
 
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Hey!! I got 'er primed!! The weather on the beautiful Michigan southwestern coast was perfect!! :mrgreen:

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Chilln' inside...

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So I plan on starting the paint this week...O.A. All the chrome parts....Should be done by December 1.... :mrgreen:
 

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