OCC Stingray CHOPPER build 😎

[bruised]

Hi guys. Been lurking for a little bit, glad to join the community. This current build is to satisfy my longing of my motorcycle days and combine it with my new found interest in cargo/utility ebikes that I’ve recently built that I ride around the urban city that I live in.

What I love about this forum is the personal style, creativity and handiwork displayed by members here. I find crossover in that aspect with the chopper motorcycle dudes. It’s refreshing coming from tech dudes over in the ebike community.

here is an initial piecing together of parts. held together by gravity as I get a feel for what the hell im doing.

I found the frame and all the schwinn occ stingray bits in a pile for sale for $50. Was missing rear wheel and little things here and there (triple tree top plate, handle bars). Since than, I’ve acquired a couple extra sets of occ rear wheels and tires just in case. Also came with a kids version rear fender( ?)

im infatuated with springer forks on choppers motorcycles so I dropped the dough on 3g linkage forks

frame extenders, ape bars and sturmey archer front hub brake and wheel from peddlechoppers.com

I’m liking the shape so far.

Im figuring out how to adapt the 1inch fork to the 1 1/8 fork tube on the frame. I have an adapter kit but thinking about spacers on the bottom of the fork tube or to trim the tube and lose over all bike and fork length. (Try to balance the long to the low, you know?) also seating. I want a nice king queen with suspension sissy bar setup.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

You are right. That fork should be on every one of those. I like the triangle light too, enhances the motorcycle vibe.

 

[shark-trike]

Two occ stingray bikes, blended together with a hub motor....

 

[bruised]

little back story: discovered occ stingrays through the ebike world. They have a bit of a following to be motorized (both gas and electric actually). Through the several builds I saw, I learned of peddle choppers.com and the owner jim wilson. He’s seemed to be into these these things for a very long time and is dedicated to them. I thought he would be a great resource but turns gout he’s a kind of a jerk. All he wanted from me was money it seems. And he got a good amount of money from me! Several parts came from him. well more like just resold and ordered to me becuase he doesn't really seem to keep much of the stock listed on hand.

I had my heart set on these 3g forks and I let him know that. he insisted that I have the forks sent to him so he could fit them for me (and make $$). I’m a “built, not bought” type of person so I did not send him the forks. He was bitter about it and has refused to help answer some questions. He insists that I, and no one around me will be able to fit these fork on a occ. I took that as a “hold my beer” moment. So here I am. Learning and getting my hands dirty.

he even banned me from all the Facebook groups he runs related to these stingrays. . He should rename all his groups to “peddle chopper$$$.com fan club buy from me only”

Sorry for rant anyways:
Had some time to mess around fitting the forks. I’m using a fork tube shim/spacer I found on eBay. It reduces the fork tube to accept a 1” thread less headset. These springer forks are 1” tube diameter.



this will be my first headset installation as well and a little confused by all the pieces


cups are in only temporarily. I’m waiting on a NOS chrome crane creek headset before I set the star nut. I think I’ll need help when the time comes. I’m not sure of placement of the 2nd to thinnest washer.

I’m trying to decide on fork placement on the neck tube. I’ve always liked the idea of long and low for choppers. So to preserve as much length to the bike as possible I’m toying with the idea of using spacers instead of trimming the fork head tube. Longer fork means longer bike but also means taller bike. I’m trying to find a balance between bike length, bike hight and frame level. Do any of these set ups look like the bad kind of weird?

I could trim the fork tube and use no spacers. Bike already tilted up from fork length…


Spacers top and bottom. Looks ok… I might have to keep some spacer up top so spring doesn’t bang against triple tree on big bumps…


Spacer on bottom for max length and height. hows the frame level look? ridiculous? i wonder how this would handle.

how to manage this gap from the flare?

No reason to do this right? all spacer up top Looks . should have done a shot from further back to see proportions.


tempted to take springer apart. shorten spring up top? Not sure if that’s even possible with out shortening other tubes.
thinking about headlight placement. Maybe a triangle light and a flat rectangle light together if I can make the room. Clip on handle bars? The ape bars went on another bike


Also got my springer seat post. Is there a way to remove the seat mount off the post?
I’ve never mounted a banana style seat before. Custom seat will also have springers in the back so I think the front mount needs some kind of floating nut to allow for movement? Ideas?

 

[hamqqea]

Pertinent questions,

I know your aim is looks but also consider handling. The trail length increases with all spacers under the head tube. That causes steering to feel heavier. All spacers on top will feel more lively. I suggest riding the bike before committing.

Not sure I get what you mean by handling the flare. It appears you haven't installed the crown race part of the headset kit as of yet. Typically the crown race is pressed on the steering tube. Most 1'' diameter tubes increase at the bottom to accommodate several sizes inside diameter crown races. A straight 1'' crown race is uncommon. Does your headset have a model number or come with specs?

The Laprade style seat post is meant for single saddles with rails and can't be removed. I've been thinking of ways to mount a banana seat with that system. A pivot bolt would only be required if there's a suspension sissy bar attached to another part of the bike, is that the case?

Gee, wasn't aware there was a 1'' adapter available. Good to know. All my stuff is old 1''.

Cant effectively answer the other stuff without being there... Great looking chopper

 

[bruised]

thank you for taking the time to reply! Also such a good idea to just ride the thing before committing to anything! She’s got a ways to go before she’s a roller.

thanks for your insight about the “flare” and crown race part of the headset. Now the pieces make a bit more sense knowing there is a piece that presses into the fork tube. This headset came with no info whatsoever from 3g.

I got this seat post from your build! Thanks again. Hmmmm so the top mount is not meant to come off huh? My hot rod spirit wants to give it a go at removing it… Yes, I’m planning for sissy bars with springs for the rear of the long seat (planning some sort of custom king queen setup made in the style of muscle bike seats ) I think a cheapo version made by “zoom” has removable rail mounts.


Pertinent questions,

I know your aim is looks but also consider handling. The trail length increases with all spacers under the head tube. That causes steering to feel heavier. All spacers on top will feel more lively. I suggest riding the bike before committing.

Not sure I get what you mean by handling the flare. It appears you haven't installed the crown race part of the headset kit as of yet. Typically the crown race is pressed on the steering tube. Most 1'' diameter tubes increase at the bottom to accommodate several sizes inside diameter crown races. A straight 1'' crown race is uncommon. Does your headset have a model number or come with specs?

The Laprade style seat post is meant for single saddles with rails and can't be removed. I've been thinking of ways to mount a banana seat with that system. A pivot bolt would only be required if there's a suspension sissy bar attached to another part of the bike, is that the case?

Gee, wasn't aware there was a 1'' adapter available. Good to know. All my stuff is old 1''.

Cant effectively answer the other stuff without being there... Great looking chopper

 

[hamqqea]

Idea for your seat post. Requires a section of solid aluminum cylinder or rod. Two drilled holes; one to be threaded for the support bolt underneath and the other for the pivot bolt to mount the seat clamp. Holes would intersect and be the same size making it easier to thread with a tap set. Marked in red in the diagram.

Aluminum rod sample.

Watched Enter the Dragon a hundred times.

 

[Karate Chicken Industries]

Watched Enter the Dragon a hundred times.

Not a one too many.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

"be like water" is life to me.

 

[bruised]

I’m a HUGE Bruce lee fanatic. My favorite garbage pail kids card was “bruised Lee”


Thanks for the seat mount idea hammpea! I’ll investigate how low the seat can be mounted that way.

 

[hamqqea]

There's all sorts of ways it could be mounted, at least there's an idea. Could be refined in your case. I like an aluminum disc high polished.

I'm sure you're aware of his Rollfast. I want to make a tribute bike. Read his books. Into martial arts for over 40 years... best I stop here. There aint enough ink in this PC to show my appreciation for the man.

 

[bruised]

Holy ..... I wasn’t into bicycles when I first saw that video so never took notice. That would be an awesome tribute project!!

Glad to meet another fan. I’ve been practicing martial arts for over 10 years. Also could talk on about him forever. Was just at his grave sight this last Sunday to pay my respects . Southpaw because of him. Favorite opening strike is the eye ... or leading backhand or side kick .

I did take notice of his seiko watch and I built my own replica :

 

[hamqqea]

Nice work on that rally style band. Haven't seen one of those in while.
Lee's efficiency is uncanny. He could take an opponent out with a toe strike. I train to make every move as effective as possible.... His way is part of my life.

 

[bruised]

drilled out the rally band myself

 

[hamqqea]

Just got your user name Most of my Lee memorabilia is lostHave a photo of my sensei with him in 67 around.

Read your back story experiences. Hey, people are people. Eventually everyone has to figure it out for themselves. There's only a handful of people I trust with my bikes. Wealth of information on this site. There are examples of current bikes going back to the war here. Many info searches lead to RRB.

I don't get gas OCC Stingrays. I want a Harley, nothing less.

 

[bruised]

Thank you for kinds words
I’ll build a real chopper once the kids are outta school heh and my metal shop is put together. Dada needs a lathe and welder

Another Bruce Lee related project I built. Daddies other corner of the house.

also, when the brick strikes back:

the user name captures the humility I feel when I try to compare myself to the man himself.

And I also just did a quick forum and google search, not much info on his rollfast! No one has built a little replica? Oh no. This has to be done gotta start digging for details!

 

[bruised]

my NOS cane creek 1 inch thread less headset came in. So pretty. I wanted mostly because they are polished instead of black. But the build quality and tolerances seems better than the generic black set I had.

so pretty. A bit of shame to cover it all up.

I’m going to the hardware store now to pick up some pvc piping to use as a crown race setting tool wish me luck

Here is the vid I’m using as reference:
at the 5:35 mark.

I will be bringing my crown race with me to the hardware store to get a pvc pipe with inner diameter that is as close to the same size as the crown race outer lip. (The dark blue lip In the next picture). Or do I want the pipe to be exactly 1 inch and flush with the black? Not quite sure.

Off i go!

 

[hamqqea]

my NOS cane creek 1 inch thread less headset came in. So pretty. I wanted mostly because they are polished instead of black. But the build quality and tolerances seems better than the generic black set I had.
View attachment 182783
View attachment 182784

so pretty. A bit of shame to cover it all up.

I’m going to the hardware store now to pick up some pvc piping to use as a crown race setting tool wish me luck

Here is the vid I’m using as reference:
at the 5:35 mark.

I will be bringing my crown race with me to the hardware store to get a pvc pipe with inner diameter that is as close to the same size as the crown race outer lip. (The dark blue lip In the next picture). Or do I want the pipe to be exactly 1 inch and flush with the black? Not quite sure.
View attachment 182785
Off i go!

Flush just like the video. Once pressed on, the spacers must stack above the head tube. The only way for spacers under is to place the crown race over the spacers which requires some form of shim between the race and steering tube where the diameter is narrower further up. I don't think such a production part exists. I suggest a thin metal like brass and steel. Aluminum is not quite hard enough long term imo.
That would also require enlarging the inside diameter of the lowest spacer.
Gluck

 

[bruised]

Thanks! The fork is 1in got pvc tubes in 1”, 1 1/8”, and 1 1/4”

So I should just go ahead and use the 1”? I guess I don’t know the interworkings of the crown race. Does the inner diameter contour to the fork tube or does the outer diameter contour? I assumed it is the outer part of the crown race that contours so that’s why I assumed the force should be applied to the outer part of the crown race, not the inner? Does that make any sense? I was gonna use the 1 1/8 pipe….

See below:
First pic is 1in pipe with crown race sitting on it. See how it’s not flush? And all the force would be applied to the inner lip which seems not ideal?

This next two pic is of a 1 1/8 washer that seems to fit perfectly with the crown race and seems like the force would be applied more evenly on the outer part of the crown race.

I would set my 1 1/4 pipe on top of this washer to apply force….

further thoughts?

and like you mentioned and what I noticed before learning about crown race bearings, I don’t think washers beneath the crown race will work with out custom shim…

looks like my only option is if I want any spacer up top. Which I think I will use a few to prevent any spring contact with upper triple tree during hard compression

 

[bruised]

Gonna use the 1 1/8 washer after watching this park tool vid:

the tool puts the force *not* on the inner lip.