Offset cog?

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If there is it will not have the right chainline to the front unless you do something else up there too.
That said, you could use a small tooth count rear and weld on another with more teeth that you had ground the drive lugs out of, giving yourself enough clearance to get the snapring on/off. you would effectively move the chain over by that cog width. Keep in mind that the old Brit. cogs are thicker than newer stuff like the Huffy coasters use, and some trickbike and BMX might be thicker yet, than newer stuff like the Huffy's use, and those from a multispeed cassette are even thinner for 3/32 chain.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about the chain alignment.
Look how crossed up a modern dérailleur set up can get.
I know that they use skinny chains designed for the purpose, but you will not be putting in that much offset.
You may get a bit of noise and increased wear if you get too extreme, but I would think up to 3/4" would work.

Kev
 
Ya know, you might try using a thin cog, say a Huffy type (if that is the type you need, not a Bendix) or a modded cassette cog (gotta remove some inner drive lugs) and using a thin washer to space it over as far as you can to the snap ring. It might gain you a little for less work than cut/weld.
 
The derailleur feeds the chain into alignment with the rear cog on geared bikes. Out of line sprockets can "shift" the chain off coasters if the chain gets loose, or even from flexing under stress, such as climbing. If it's your only brake, you could have a problem. :shock: :x :cry: :oops:
 
Well, nothing fancy but it will save me some money i suppose. Little bit of tig work and some paint, it will never be noticed again.


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slowriderz said:
Well, nothing fancy but it will save me some money i suppose. Little bit of tig work and some paint, it will never be noticed again.


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SWEET!!!
 

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