ONEX 29

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I couldn't leave it in the box.

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There are two configurations, cruiser and racer. This is with the racer bar and seat on.

Swapped out the wheel set.
  • Velocity MB rims in red
    Surly front sealed bearing hub
    Nexus 7 speed coaster brake rear hub
    black spokes and nipples
    2.35 Big Apples

Crank was a throw away.
  • Euro sealed cartridge 130 mm (I think..)
    Aluminum 175 crank with a 42t chain ring.
    Added 8 links of white chain, no master link.
    BMX style open pedals.

Shifter mounted to the seat tube.

Project this weekend to remove these decals...
 
Last weekend didn't work out for much on bikes. And today I couldn't work on the trike so I took off the decals.

There are several references to removing decals from bikes on the internet and articles here too. I think I found this one the most helpful;

http://www.instructables.com/community/Removing-Bicycle-Decals/

I decided I would just go out and be ready to try them all! And if that failed, well then it I'd just take it to Seattle Powdercoat and start over.

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I got a heat gun at home depot... Plastic razor blades and a serious holder at NAPA.. A whimsy holder at Fred Mayer... Some WD-40 and a few clean rags... And a wheel erasers with mandrel from NAPA....

I left the sandpaper on the shelf to start with but I was ready with power tools and and several grits, although I suppose that would have been silly. The powder coater would take to bare metal.

I started with the least expensive set of solutions... The heat gun, cheap razor holder and a plastic razor...

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I have used a heat gun to strip paint from window frames in the past so I was pretty familiar with it. BUT I timed what I did. I used the heat gun on high with a back and forth motion for approximately two minutes on the decal. The aluminum was pretty conductive so it took more time than I thought it would and would probably take less on steel. I also noticed that when it was about the right temperature if you looked REALLY close you could see the adhesive on the edge oozing a bit.

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The first one I tried I simply lifted the edge with my thumb nail and it peeled right off! But to be honest I started on one that looked like it was an after thought when they put it on, in fact the edge was already kind of lifted and it was a small one.

The next one was a bit bigger and here you can see how close I was holding the heat gun. Basically if I couldn't see the refection of the hot coils I was too far away. I'd say I waved it back and forth over the decal about an inch high and for about two minutes.

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My thumb nail didn't lift an edge but the plastic razor sure did...

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From there it was just heat, lift the edge with the plastic razor and peel off all in one piece. There is a critical temperature. If you're not hot enough they still stick and you have to tug and scrape. Instead of doing that just a bit more heat seemed to always do the trick!

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10 minutes later and all the decals were off and there wasn't even a lot of residue.

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I think all but the velocity stickers on the wheels came off in one piece. Those were tough, and probably took a much time as all the rest put together. I think I was being shy about getting to critical temperature because I was worried about those 29x2.35 big apples. I did ruin the cheap holder on the wheels too. I think if I did it again I could avoid that and not have had to use the $8 holder.

I'm a little disappointed that there was not reason to use the wheel eraser a fact I'm sure I'll get over when I return them unused and get my $50 back.

It took two and some places three applications of WD-40 and a little elbow grease with a clean rag to get the residue off. Again most of the work was for the two wheel stickers.

My son was so proud of my efforts that he even made dinner! Smoked ham and brie sandwiches with garden fresh spinach and some honey crisp apple... I think I like taking decals off....

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FUN!
 
Re: ONEX 29 - 1-X

I am so glad you took the decals off of that particular model, because it is one of the mispelled ones. Strange how some are Onyx and others are Onex. :p

Anyway, how about a nice full side shot of your 1-X .
I have an Onyx that I picked up cheap used. It is in my bike stash and I haven't done anything with it yet.

I also picked up a pair of 28x2 Big Apples the other day. I was thinking about trying them on the Onyx rims.
 
Re: ONEX 29 - 1-X

kingfish254 said:
I am so glad you took the decals off of that particular model, because it is one of the mispelled ones. Strange how some are Onyx and others are Onex. :p

Anyway, how about a nice full side shot of your 1-X .
I have an Onyx that I picked up cheap used. It is in my bike stash and I haven't done anything with it yet.

I also picked up a pair of 28x2 Big Apples the other day. I was thinking about trying them on the Onyx rims.

I bought a set of used cream ones with that idea but ended up putting the velocities on so I could have the nexus7 coaster. It's hilly here in Seattle and I don't think I'll be able to keep the weight under 40 lb. I'm going to put the take offs on a "BIG BOY BMX" bike sometime.

I will take more pictures in daylight. I'm afraid even with my lights on the camera phone quality along with flash just makes it look like something from a bad rip of TRON.

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Which is kinda cool... but...
 
I am going to put on some decals and a head badge though...

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I found a set of REDLINE flame decals that are going to go over white tips on the fenders a fun flame skull that will go on the seat tube and some skulls with flames that will go with the screaming skull head badge. Basically I'll trim the skull off and put them behind the head badge on the top tube.

I guess that makes the next project fitting the skull to the head tube.

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Voyager Al said:
where do you get decals like that?

The internet, in particular eBay! Though I would like to find someone that could do custom flames for me. Someday I'm going to hydroprint a whole bike too!

Decals/Stickers
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40021677300...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2106wt_1140
http://www.ebay.com/itm/26092508604...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_500wt_1164
http://www.ebay.com/itm/33067232736...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_500wt_1164

Skull headbadge (I need to modify to fit on the headtube)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25031182184...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_5855wt_1148

Grips and seats
http://www.ebay.com/itm/28075987544...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1383wt_952
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16071460475...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_500wt_1164
http://www.ebay.com/itm/27082903717...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1511wt_952

Layback Seatpost and Shim for the cruiser seat. The "Racer" seat fit on the post that came with the bike.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250988145165?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_500wt_930
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120821190820?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_893wt_914

The stem and moustach bars came out of LBS used bin. I will be adding a cross brace and lighter quil to the bars that came with the bike but haven't found them.

I don't know if that helps or not.
 
Tonight I had more time to work on this bike. Still waiting for parts on other projects.

The project was fitting the skull as a head badge. As usual I got out everything I thought I might be able to put to use to do it. A couple different saws, a rasping bit, electric drill and sand paper in a few grits.

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I started with the small saw but rapidly switched to the biggest one I had and lopped the back of the skull off.. I was pretty careful to keep the angle so it probably took me 10 minutes to cut it off. Next time I'm going to wrap the part in a towel, stick it in a vice and have it done in a minute..

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Of course my head tube isn't flat. I got some basic directions on how to mate these resin skulls to things. He fits them to all kinds of things like motorcycle fenders, shifters etc... Anyway the next step was roughing out the curve of the head tube into the back of the skull.. I used the rasp in the drill..

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This was pretty slow going again probably because I was being cautious, perhaps overly so. I probably spent 15 minutes... getting a groove the max depth I thought I would have to go.

After getting the groove done I took out some more material until it sort of fit on the head tube.

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From here I used the head tube as a mandrel and sanded the roughed out skull. I only had 220 here and in hind sight I should have gone and gotten some 120 or maybe even 80 to save time and effort. I spent about an hour going up and down and side to side on 1/8 sheet pieces of sand paper I held on the head tube.

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Eventually it fit well enough I was happy with it.

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I haven't had a chance to pick up black double sided trim tape to put it on yet. So the next task for this project is getting that tape and then sticking on the skull and decals.

My son simply wasn't that impressed with this. BUT he did want to help and vacuumed up all the shavings and dust for me while I made dinner.
 
You need to put some batteries and red glowing led eyes on that thing.
 
kingfish254 said:
You need to put some batteries and red glowing led eyes on that thing.

Don't you think that might over do my conservative build? :D

I may do this after I get the rest of it buttoned up. He sells these with the LED's already epoxied in and wire leads. I think if I do it I'll set it up to shove a lithium AAA up under the chin and have it always on if the battery is in and use BLAZING LEDs!

But I gotta finish the fenders up first. It's just no fun riding here without fenders.
 
Minor set back. There is no way I can get the redline flame decals to conform/lay flat on the fenders. The rest went great. I got the layback post for the cruiser seat today but am still waiting for the post shim. Now if Seattle will give me a little bit of sunshine...
 
The sun is out and my son suggested we go down to the park on the water and play a little frizzbie.

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Not a bad day for a ride at all..

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Not at all...
 
Great transformation.
Looking sweet!!!
 
Had a funny observation today. I went for a quick test ride on a 26" dyno glide. After riding this yesterday it felt a little bit like riding a clown bike. It's funny the pictures don't capture the scale of this bike they way they should. FUN!
 
The shifter the way it was mounted was annoying and I wanted to get started on the cruiser configuration. So I put the shifter on in a more conventional suicide shifter position. After a couple tries and some work with rasp on the mount to tuck it in I'm sort of happy with it.

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I also put on the stock bars and went for a little ride. This thing is really big. It's kind of FUN riding past people and other bikes you get a sense of size, I feel like a big kid, which is the whole point isn't it!? Anyway the comfort seat has an obvious problem. The crash bar is right next to the seat frame so it will limit the seat motion to a bit less than a 1/4. I took the obvious solution and removed the crash bar. It's not really needed since this isn't a kids bike RIGHT!? LOL

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I'll have to wait to get help welding up an 4" offset seat post before I can put it on and there are still flames for the fenders to deal with. But I'm much happier with the new shifter configuration and cruiser bars are more comfortable and give you a whole different view of the world riding the bike.

FUN!
 
outskirtscustoms said:
Just think maybe someday 50 years from now those misprint Onyx bikes will be collector's items. :lol:

Maybe it was a phonetics thing over in Taiwan. My wife had me cut out a label in a Fendi sweater she bought in Seoul Korea and I busted up laughing. It read, "Fendi - Made in Itaree".

I like the shifter by the way. How did you make the aluminum part to add to the old grip shift?
 
kingfish254 said:
outskirtscustoms said:
Just think maybe someday 50 years from now those misprint Onyx bikes will be collector's items. :lol:

Maybe it was a phonetics thing over in Taiwan. My wife had me cut out a label in a Fendi sweater she bought in Seoul Korea and I busted up laughing. It read, "Fendi - Made in Itaree".

I like the shifter by the way. How did you make the aluminum part to add to the old grip shift?

Chubbies sells it. There isn't much to it. In fact now that I have it I'm thinking about fabricating the next one using some aluminum and polymer clay. It's just a cup that goes on the grip shift with a plug of aluminum in the grip replicating the handle bar so you can use a set screw to hold it on without crushing the grip plastic. If you look in the picture you'll see I trimmed the plastic grip to fill the gap between the shift handle and the shifter.

It does sound like the Onex ones are not clear coated over the stickers or if they are the clear is so thin it doesn't matter. I haven't seen one of the other ones yet.
 
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