Opening swedish bottom bracket

[Hugo]

How do I disassemble this? I hit it a few times with the hammer and screw driver but then realised I was just being stupid and should ask first... That center part has two notches, there's probably a tool that fits in there. Anyone got pictures? Work arounds? It's a reverse thread, right? Thanks.

Hugo

 

[RatRodDad]

Hugo, hopefully someone will have some experience with these and be able to tell you for sure, but it does look similar to a US one piece crank - which is reverse threaded.

The US ones usually have a nut and washer on the outside and a piece like yours behind the nut and washer. That inside piece comes off / loosens up with taps from a screw driver and hammer just as you started to do.

Hopefully once it loosens it up will come right off.

 

[CCR]

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/13186- ... r-Tool.htm

heres a spanner tool, looks like thats the "key" tool for this possibly, tho i dont mess with those "fancy parts" much :|

if it was me id use a nail punch and a hammer :mrgreen:

 

[user 135]

My Norwiegen BB looked kinda like that. It should unscrew with a spanner w/reverse threads.

My problem cam when trying to remove those bearing cups that are threaded into the frame. Where yours has a cross hatch texture on the sides, mine has 3 holes spread evenly around the outside. You have to remove the cup to get the crank out.(I think)

 

[VicXsaN]

My Norwiegen BB looked kinda like that. It should unscrew with a spanner w/reverse threads.

My problem cam when trying to remove those bearing cups that are threaded into the frame. Where yours has a cross hatch texture on the sides, mine has 3 holes spread evenly around the outside. You have to remove the cup to get the crank out.(I think)

I think his looks thesame beneith the "cover" with the cross hatch texture, my "musclebike" did that, and it's thesame setup!

The cup should unscrew with a spanner and hammer, as said earlier! The real trick is getting the assy out of the bb! I havn't figured it out yet

 

[MaXXXwell]

It will come loose with some violence :wink: Just remember it's gonna come loose turning right instead of left :idea: The assy will only come out of the BB if you unscrew the outer ring that you see on the picture. If I'm nog mistaking that ring is locked in the BB and can be unscrewed also by turning right... (Again, that is if I'm not mistaking... You don't see that many bike with the BB set mounted like that ) Hope this will help you...

 

[karfer67]

find someone that works on volvos :mrgreen:

seriously if all else fails it looks rusty maybe putting a little heat on it would help?

 

[Hugo]

find someone that works on volvos :mrgreen:

Good one!

There's a tool that's used to change discs on angle grinders. It's a lever with a couple of nice round pegs at the end. I cut a slot on one of the "arms" so I could increase the distance between the pegs, and welded the slot back up. It fitted the part really well and I managed to unscrew it with zero difficulty! 8)

That piece looks like a thick threaded washer, and is in fact the locking nut. Behind it there's a thin washer, the dust cover (outer part with cross hatch texture, spins along with the axle), and the bearing race, also threaded. This race has 4 smaller slots on the outside but I made it turn with a simple screw driver, no force involved.

Now the problem is that the crank won't go through the BB housing! Just like VicXsaN said. It appears that the frame cups are in the way and have to be removed first to make way for the cranks. They seem to be just pressed in, I'll have to work on this a bit more but not for now. I'll grease everything and close it back up. I'll do a full strip when this swedish babe gets a makeover in the Spring. Any sugestions on how to remove the frame cups with the cranks still in the way?

Hugo

 

[user 135]

Now the problem is that the crank won't go through the BB housing! Just like VicXsaN said. Any sugestions on how to remove the frame cups with the cranks still in the way? Hugo

that is what I want to know. Hugo, Can I borrow your pics to post elsewhere in hopes of finding an answer?

 

[Hugo]

Sure, borrow away. But your cups are different, aren't they? Mine are pressed in (not sure) and you said yours are threaded in with 3 holes on the outside. Any pics? Maybe you can heat the frame, expand it a little bit to make it easy for the cups to turn inside the housing, and use a hammer and punch on the 3 outside holes???

Hugo

 

[Hugo]

After I removed the dust covers and cleaned up some more, I found 3 holes on the outside of each of the frame cups, and that they're threaded on to the frame. It must be the same bottom bracket you have, Cman.

One of the cups was only hand tight, and the other unscrewed easily with a hammer and punch. The right cup has normal threads, and the left cup has reverse threads. And the crank indeed comes out as soon as both cups are out of the frame.

Hugo

 

[user 135]

Glad you got yours apart. I tried the punch and hammer on the holes and demolished the holes. But I just want the Sprocket so if all else fails cut the crank. :mrgreen: Looks like a 2 special tools needed. Hugo yours is an exact replica of the spanner. The other looks like the pin slides through the body

Good news I got some info from somebody in Norway and diagram.

Edit: Just as Karfer said find somebody who is an old Volvo guy. The guy below member name on bikeforum.net is 240 GL

From my old Norwegian repair book (my poor translation, don’t blame the book!) – “fourteen easy steps”. The letters refer to the scanned picture at the bottom. Hope this helps.

“To remove the (Fauber) crank special tools are needed. One for the nut (top) and another for the cup (bottom). Start the job on the left side of the bike.

1. Using the special key unscrew the nut (a) backwards.
2. The securing washer (b) is now loose. Remove it.
3. Left dustcap (c) is also loose. On the inside there are two teeth that fit the notches in the cone (d).
4. Use the dustcap to unscrew the conus. Keep in mind that it is left-threaded, screw backwards.
5. Loosen the left cup (f) using the special tool by screwing backwards. Remove the ball bearing frame (e) and the cup.
6. The crank arm (g) will now seem loose, but before you remove it you need to loosen the right hand side using the special tool.
7. Now the crank arm can be eased out of the bicycle frame.
8. Clean the ball bearings in kerosene and re-pack them with grease. Replace worn parts.
9. If the chainwheel (j) needs replacing, unscrew the right hand side conus – which is right-threaded. Lift off the right hand side dustcap.
10. The chainwheel can now be replaced. If you place the ball bearing frame in the cup, you will observe that it rests deeper than what is the case for the left cup.
11. Installation is reverse of removal. Keep in mind the different thread direction left and right.
12. Finally, check that the crank rotates easily. If it is too tight or loose, loosen the nut. The tightening is adjusted by rotating the dustcap.
13. Retighten the nut properly.
14. Make a last check to ensure that everything works as it should.

 

[Hugo]

I tried the punch and hammer on the holes and demolished the holes. But I just want the Sprocket so if all else fails cut the crank. :mrgreen:

Whoopsie! Before cutting the crank you can try welding a long (ish) piece of sturdy metal to the outside of the cup and then use that as a lever. It WILL move. Grind the lever out and you still have an usable, although pretty shaken up, frame cup.

Hugo