i think ill stay on the bench and watch the game 
il try to be ready for another build 
il try to be ready for another build 
(ORBO) BMX/MTB/BOMBER/KLUNKER BO .....VOTING FINISHED!......
- Thread starter LukeTheJoker
- Start date
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Hmmmmm Should I???
I've never really thought about the effect of the traffic on the website...
I guess I take some things for granted.
I'd never want to do anything to harm this site.
It's one of my favorite places on the web...
So I'll have to just get used to 3 months and then relax...
3 months and then relax... 3 months and then relax...
Carl.
I guess I take some things for granted.
I'd never want to do anything to harm this site.
It's one of my favorite places on the web...
So I'll have to just get used to 3 months and then relax...
3 months and then relax... 3 months and then relax...
Carl.
Depends if you can find a spare Worksman or heavy-duti frame somewhere?
Luke.
I've got a couple...Depends if you can find a spare Worksman or heavy-duti frame somewhere?
Luke.
Yes sir, bring it.....
Timeframe is locked down to January 1st to April 1st 2016.
Official start time can be found here: https://countingdownto.com/countdown/orbo-start-countdown-clock
Official finish time can be found here: https://countingdownto.com/countdown/orbo-finish-time-countdown-clock
Rules as per usual except the type of bike is limited to:
-BMX suitable for an adult to ride, can be set up for park/race/dirt/tricks whatever...
-Klunker/Bomber/Hybrid/MTB... (anywhere from period correct early single speed coaster brake Bomber/Klunker to current carbon frame, hydraulic disc, full suspension Mountain bike)
This is not a build-off for your everyday cruiser, perfect restoration, or your ride to the shops bikes... This is for bikes that are meant to be ridden hard and fast, jumped, skidded and abused!
Standard rules:
1. Start a new post and use the bike name as the post "Subject/Title."
2. Keep a running journal in your thread about your build showing the steps you are taking. Please don't just build away and expect to jump in at the last second with a finished bike, you can enter at any time before the deadline, but the build must not be finished when you enter.
3. Bike must be built within the dates specified. It must not be started before the start date.
4. Must include progress and finished photos (all in one thread please)
5. Bike must be ridable.
We are pretty free apart from that, you can enter multiple builds if you feel you can complete them in the three months.
Start your threads here with (ORBO) at the start of the title, when the MBBO is finished voting it will move to the archives and the ORBO will move to a new thread group.
One last comment that I always add because it is important:
Please keep comments light-hearted and positive, this is a fun build-off, if you start causing trouble you might just get removed...
Luke.
Just to clarify: scratch-built is allowed for this one??
I have a great idea but not sure if I have the time..Yes sir, bring it.....
Yep!
No rules included for who does the welding either, so if you need modifications done and can't do them yourself, find someone who can do them for you! It's all good!
Luke.
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I'm def participating. I think I'll do a 26" LRV BMX Cruiser Tribute, klunker style. Need to start collecting parts.
Can't wait!
Can't wait!
Well, i just got some steel tubes in the mail. Nothing for an actual build, but just some mild steel scraps for R&D. Headtube exercises; can i press-fit standard headsets in these things without any prep work, beyond facing (ie, i didn't want to have to change the bore/ID of the tube to accept the headtubes)....? Well, 3 of the 4 worked fine. Pressed in a ISO/"mini" headset in one, a Schwinn/"BMX" 1inch in another, and a 1.125"/EC34 in the last. All pressed in as tightly yet easily as most factory frames. I also got one that I thought would be good for the Wald 4080, but the cups were loose in the tube. Oh well; 3 out of 4 ain't bad. I'm expecting the BB shell piece today; we'll see how that goes.
I'm pretty psyched.
I'm pretty psyched.
I recently purchased a carbon fiber Lauf fork and a set of trick bearings. I've got those black Snafu cranks and an extra seat. Hmmm, "Spinsane" turned beautifully and "Witchcraft" is shaping up. I have two more ideas. I think I am in for both.
- by Gigmata
- by Gigmata
Funny story, I didn't know that this buildoff existed until 30 minutes ago. I have also been mentally envisioning a klunker build because of an abundance of prewar and postwar frames being in my way, in addition to a front drum brake wheel sitting around. I'm kind of curious if the general tone of this build is to maintain the spirit of the original movement by using cruiser frames and cheap components (especially what would have been available back then, or else what's the point) with little to no effort in the looks department?
I am sure some will vote on that criteria, but this is not a Klunker only build-off the focus is on all Off Road builds.
Luke.
Just over 22 hours until the start!
Luke.
Luke.
That's my plan if I can track down the right frame, looking for an old Schwinn with straight down tube.
I can only speak for myself, but my admittedly ambitious plan is to build a frame from scratch that will have somewhat modern hardtail geometry but a dose of old-school cruiser styling, coaster rear, disc brake front, mostly new or DIY components... and a Bendix Red-Band singlespeed hub. As I see it, building an era-accurate klunker flies in the face of what the guys were building in the 70s; their rides were cheap b/c the frames and most of the parts were affordable and not in high-demand back then, and they also represented the state-of-the-art in offroad performance at the time. Those boys were trying to build a fast trailbike for cheap. Fast-forward to 2016: there are multitudes of better off-road frames than a pre-war model C; virtually every MTB crank offers better gearing, strength, and performance than a TA 6-bolt; tires are incredibly good nowadays, the cheapest v-brakes stop you better than an Atom drum, etc etc etc..... so, an era-accurate klunker would NOT be the best choice for a fast trailbike, in 2016. Add to that the fact that building an "authentic" Marin 70s style klunker would, at today's prices, likely cost a few grand, and the idea of doing it cheap is gone, too. So, it's very possible to do it, and the bike would absolutely be awesome, but the spirit of the build would be almost the exact opposite of the purposes that motivated Charlie Kelly et al WBITD.
Sitting down with the guys at my semi-local 80/20 dealer in a couple weeks for some CAD time to build my jig to do just that Dunno if I'll finish an assembled bike in time, but the BO lights the fire under my butt to stop acquiring bikes and at least build my tooling... progress is progress if I can quit the day job and sell frames instead.
Dunno if I'll finish an assembled bike in time, but the BO lights the fire under my butt to stop acquiring bikes and at least build my tooling... progress is progress if I can quit the day job and sell frames instead.
Yeah, that's looking good, Matt. I'd love to see plans for your frame, too...
Realistically speaking, I'll be lucky if I can even lay down a nice bead or 2 on some scraps by April first... but I think the buildoff could, at least, motivate me to get started on something i've always wanted to do.
Realistically speaking, I'll be lucky if I can even lay down a nice bead or 2 on some scraps by April first... but I think the buildoff could, at least, motivate me to get started on something i've always wanted to do.
Same here, that's why I'm going to braze it. Just as strong if not actually stronger if done properly. The load of the joint is spread out farther and less heat. Just labor intensive (hence production shops no likey) and a few dozen grams heavier for the weight Weenies. Advantage to me is if I mess up a joint I can melt it off and start again until it's pretty
So far the jig looks it's going to run about $600, which is about 1/3 what I've seen for anything not made from MDF and packaged like it came from IKEA.
EDIT: no spell check on my stupid phone
So far the jig looks it's going to run about $600, which is about 1/3 what I've seen for anything not made from MDF and packaged like it came from IKEA.
EDIT: no spell check on my stupid phone
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