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jamesdart

jamesdart

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I'm going to start another thread since "the sportsman" is just waiting for me to strip and paint at this point. I've been wanting to do something like this for a while. I wanted to use my kustom kruiser frame but I couldn't bring myself to cut it up, so i decided to try it with a Schwinn HD/deliveri instead. I won't feel so bad if I chop it up and it doesn't work out to well, there's no shortage of them.
 
This fork started it all. I was thinking it would be something like a klunker, a cantilever style frame with some gears, some mtb parts, and FAT tires. Not old school, but same idea.
image.jpeg


When I test fit the fork to my kustom kruiser, I instantly regretted that bright idea. I wanted a dyno/ kustom kruiser since they were new, I didn't want to cut that frame. Chuck happened to post this deliveri frame up just as I was shaking my head, thinking what did I get myself into...
idea.
image.jpeg
 
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Welcome to the Fat Klunk Klub! There's a couple on here now....more the merrier!
 
Schwinnspastic said:
Yet another modern Schwinn Heavy Duty Delivery, how many are there now in this b/o ?
I think they're starting to grow on me now!
Nice set of wheels and tires.
Mark
Click to expand...
yeah they are the majority. i thought the worksman were going to have a strong showing. to be honest i was never really crazy about these frames but it seems to lend itself well to an offroad bike.
 
that's funny, when I started my first BO thread I was thinking, man I guess I'm not very creative. where do these people come up with these names... I would just call them cruiser #1, cruiser # 2, offroad #1...
 
worked a crazy long day Saturday, and its been nasty cold out, but I managed to run outside yesterday with a cutoff wheel real quick. cut the braces and kickstand mount off, cut the welds on the stays and opened up the rear for the wheel to fit. I ordered a presta adapter to fill the tires along with some other stuff so I have to wait for that to arrive to see if this is gonna work.
anyone know fat bikes? I have a couple ideas to try and make a bottom bracket work. but open to suggestions at this point.
 
Yesterday I put my favorite headset in the frame, a. FSA hammer. Bolted up a stem and some bars. I keep expecting to hit a wall with this thing that is just going to mame me realize, this aint gonna work but things seem to keep moving along.
I thought top tube height was going to be an issue for me with the fat wheels considering how most fat bike frames look like a dirt jump frame. Right now the rear tire has about 1/4" clearance to the stays, I think I'd like to see more. Its also tough to get the rear tire in and out of the frame when inflated. I need to figure out how I want to fixe these issues.
I'm wondering if there is a way to get a bottom bracket to work without welding. I any idea if I can use a truvativ adapter and an external style bottom bracket.
 
Clearance is close but the chainline would be my concern. I'd look to similar builds here to see what they used. I think Rat Rod's bike used the sunlight bb conversion kit. Its supposed to be a little wider but you may need it to clear the tire anyway.

Carl.

sent from my banana phone...
 
jamesdart said:
I'm wondering if there is a way to get a bottom bracket to work without welding. I any idea if I can use a truvativ adapter and an external style bottom bracket.
Click to expand...

This is theoretically possible, but not likely with the Truvativ adaptor, which has the threads significantly recessed, so the outboard bearings will likely interfere with installation.
22473.jpg

See what i mean?

If you can find the older MRP-brand adaptor, those were completely flush. Barring that, the ones that porkchop sells are almost entirely flush; it'd likely work, but you might have to get obsessive about trimming a few threads off of the adaptor's 3 bolts to prevent interference with the bearings.
http://porkchopbmx.com/Euro-to-American-Bicycle-Bottom-Bracket-Adapter-SILVER-BBIMBA01.htm

Not sure what rear hub you're using, but chainline is a huge consideration; most of the outboard-bearing 2-piece cranks have little or no adjustability in the chainline. Most of the mtb-style outboard cranks will have the chainline too far out for a standard-spaced coaster or bmx hub, but may work OK with a hub spaced at 135mm. Road cranks will have a chainline that will match up with a coaster hub or a bmx hub, but the crankarms won't clear the stays of even a stock Schwinn Deliveri frame. Once you spread the stays to clear that tire, crankarm clearance will be a consideration with almost any crank you run, short of a dedicated fat-bike crankset.

I'm still completely confused as to why so many folks on this build are going thru the expense, hassle, and shot-in-the dark guesswork that goes with the euro and/or square taper conversions, when there are plug'n'play bmx cranks which are designed for use in an American bb shell, with adjustable chainline. Going the BB route tkes out the guessing games, and it makes for a far less kludgy build, and far stronger components.
 
It is a multi speed hub. I spread the stays to fit, I think it's 170mm?
I definitely like the modern bmx setup. They go together so easy. One of my ideas was to cut and weld 2 19mm spindles to a length that would get me a good chain line, have some spacers made. But I'm not sure a 19mm spindle that long will hold up.
 

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