I have seen some crazy good rattle can jobs and use them all the time when theres no money in the project for real paint.
Painting Bike
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Ditto all the prep work makes the difference. Sand it clean, the finer sanding you do first, the less later. Use a good auto body primer, and fine sand that down too. Block sanding is tough on a bike because there's almost no flat surfaces, so its all hand work. I'll jump in on the Dupli-Color crew too, available at Autozone or O'Reilly's or other autoparts stores. That paint just flows on, I also warm the cans up in the sink with some hot water, shake, hot water, shake, hot water, shake... I think that would help any paint...
Now that all said, IF I had a nice high dollar bike I was redoing, I'd save up for a professional paint job. No powdercoat for me cause IF I'm ponying up some cash I want a nice candy coat or something else more exotic...
Carl.
Now that all said, IF I had a nice high dollar bike I was redoing, I'd save up for a professional paint job. No powdercoat for me cause IF I'm ponying up some cash I want a nice candy coat or something else more exotic...
Carl.
Have gun & PPG , will travel:
Just random crap that most probably wasn't finished, but a gun and some toners will give a ton of options rattle cans won't. Save your cash and get a auto paint. It's not cheap but if you take the time to learn it will be worth it. Besides, if an ..... like me can learn to swing a gun(well, I don't professionally any longer just a lowly bodyman now), anyone can.
BTW, when you sand for paint, I know a lot are saying "the smoother the better." Which, in a way is true, but don't go beyond 600 for base and you want any sanding for clear to be done with nothing over 1200 or you'll have adhesion issues down the road. Now, I know everyone has their own way of doing stuff and mine is not the be all end all, but I have been in the trade for almost 20 years now. So I feel I have earned a little knowledge on the subject. I only got fired once in that time, and it wasn't for my work.
Just random crap that most probably wasn't finished, but a gun and some toners will give a ton of options rattle cans won't. Save your cash and get a auto paint. It's not cheap but if you take the time to learn it will be worth it. Besides, if an ..... like me can learn to swing a gun(well, I don't professionally any longer just a lowly bodyman now), anyone can.
BTW, when you sand for paint, I know a lot are saying "the smoother the better." Which, in a way is true, but don't go beyond 600 for base and you want any sanding for clear to be done with nothing over 1200 or you'll have adhesion issues down the road. Now, I know everyone has their own way of doing stuff and mine is not the be all end all, but I have been in the trade for almost 20 years now. So I feel I have earned a little knowledge on the subject. I only got fired once in that time, and it wasn't for my work.
I have done all three, and the best result by a fair margin was the proper car paint through a proper gun, the powder coat came next, but as others have said, it can show up every flaw, so rattle can with good prep is still a good option...
Luke.
Luke.
For durability powdercoat is the way to go. I havent had a chance to try a gun yet. I have achieed some amazing results with a rattle can. Its all prep work. Duplicolor rocks. Warming up your paint and your frame also helps tremendously
Often times though, by the time im done painting a bike it costs me close to the price of a powdercoat, but not at the prices ive seen quoted in this thread.
Ive thought about powdercoating, but have a hard time giving up the creative freedom and control that i can achieve with a rattlecan
Often times though, by the time im done painting a bike it costs me close to the price of a powdercoat, but not at the prices ive seen quoted in this thread.
Ive thought about powdercoating, but have a hard time giving up the creative freedom and control that i can achieve with a rattlecan
