Painting Techniques
- Thread starter mcannon85
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You're right about the clear coating too soon, I just learned that the hard way. Luckily if you catch it early and it's only a small spot instead of half a bike frame you can let it dry and the wrinkling really smoothes out, almost undetectable, then you can sand and repair that spot.
One thing I learned recently is the benefits and drawbacks of stripping a bike vs. sanding and priming over the original paint. I'm a clean-slate kinda guy so on one of my latest projects I stripped the frame, sanded it for surface adhesion, cleaned it with mineral spirits, let it dry, then applied my etching primer, filler primer, base coats, then clear. It all seemed like the right steps, etc. Unfortunately I DO NOT like the adhesion I got on the bare metal, or actually lack of adhesion. The clear's bonded to the color, the color's bonded to the primers, but the primers don't seem to have adhered well to the metal, even using etching primer. (I'm talking all rattle can stuff here)
In the future, if I have a bike with a good robust factory enamel coat I think I'll just sand it and treat the bad spots then etch-primer over that. Why strip off a good coat of paint that's really well bonded to the metal?
One thing I learned recently is the benefits and drawbacks of stripping a bike vs. sanding and priming over the original paint. I'm a clean-slate kinda guy so on one of my latest projects I stripped the frame, sanded it for surface adhesion, cleaned it with mineral spirits, let it dry, then applied my etching primer, filler primer, base coats, then clear. It all seemed like the right steps, etc. Unfortunately I DO NOT like the adhesion I got on the bare metal, or actually lack of adhesion. The clear's bonded to the color, the color's bonded to the primers, but the primers don't seem to have adhered well to the metal, even using etching primer. (I'm talking all rattle can stuff here)
In the future, if I have a bike with a good robust factory enamel coat I think I'll just sand it and treat the bad spots then etch-primer over that. Why strip off a good coat of paint that's really well bonded to the metal?
your adheshion problem probably came from the use of mineral spirits. This has an oily substance in its make up I think because it is made frome pine sappe so it leaves a coat on the metal that takes a while to evaporate.
You need to use either lacquer thinner or a product that specifically says "degreaser" on it. These will clean it and evaporate fast so you can then paint.
You need to use either lacquer thinner or a product that specifically says "degreaser" on it. These will clean it and evaporate fast so you can then paint.
So I went and got a can of the lacquer thinner (see my post 8 above this one and the subsequent recommendation), WHEEWW! That stuff is potent! I can see why it's so good at sterilizing a frame. It also removes long-dried paint very easily as well.
Soooo, typically I wipe down the freshly painted and dried surface after sanding and before applying clear coats. I can tell this lacquer thinner will bugger up my new paint job something severe.
What do I use to wipe down dried coats of primer, paint, etc before applying the next coat of something???
Soooo, typically I wipe down the freshly painted and dried surface after sanding and before applying clear coats. I can tell this lacquer thinner will bugger up my new paint job something severe.
What do I use to wipe down dried coats of primer, paint, etc before applying the next coat of something???
if you just sanded it, just use a tack cloth to get the dust off..
you can use a rag with laquer thinner on it if its just barely damp, too damp and it will leave streaks..
you can use a rag with laquer thinner on it if its just barely damp, too damp and it will leave streaks..
With most spray paint jobs, it's important to remember spray paint is garbage. If you are using $200+ per gallon automotive paint with reducer, I think it's more important to go about doing it correctly. Bad bodywork is wasted paint.
With rattlecan paint, there is no such thing as wasted paint, because even if you get a perfect application, it still sucks because it has nowhere near the durability of car paint. However, rattlecan paint is big fun!
I will wet sand a frame and not even strip it totally -just get it pretty smooth
Dust it with a dry cloth
Spray primer
Spray color
Spray color
Spray color
Wet Sand with 1000 grit wet/dry paper
Then rub it for a few days with a washcloth and $40 3M Microfine polishing compound (foam pad polishing glaze in a bottle-Pro painter stuff)
Pretty good outcome without even using rattle clear.
I'm scared of rattle clear as I live in a very humid area and I have messed up more than one shiny frame with it before.
With rattlecan paint, there is no such thing as wasted paint, because even if you get a perfect application, it still sucks because it has nowhere near the durability of car paint. However, rattlecan paint is big fun!
I will wet sand a frame and not even strip it totally -just get it pretty smooth
Dust it with a dry cloth
Spray primer
Spray color
Spray color
Spray color
Wet Sand with 1000 grit wet/dry paper
Then rub it for a few days with a washcloth and $40 3M Microfine polishing compound (foam pad polishing glaze in a bottle-Pro painter stuff)
Pretty good outcome without even using rattle clear.
I'm scared of rattle clear as I live in a very humid area and I have messed up more than one shiny frame with it before.
everyone puts too much clear outa the gate.... heck I do it all the time.. the key to covering any paint with a top coat or different brand is 3 or 4 extremely light coats over say a 30 minute period to build up an insulator for the solvents.. let that dry for maybe an hour, then spray 3 or 4 more light coats that flash in between and only wet out the last coat.
If you do it right it wont get all wrinkly or milky.. :roll:
If you do it right it wont get all wrinkly or milky.. :roll:
