Pedals-help!

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I've been trying for the last hour or so to remove the left pedal so I can get the crank out.

the right pedal came off no problem

the left is being a pain in my ...


I've tried both directions too, I'm assuming its reverse threaded, but at this point, who knows.

am I going to need to buy a pedal wrench or some kind of heavy duty penetrating spray?


also, what kind of grease should i use to degrease to clean and re-grease everything once it's all clean and painted and ready to re-assemble?
 
Left pedal is reverse threaded. Try penetrating oil or some heat. You can also try hitting the end of the crank with a hammer to loosen the rust.
 
Soak with Liquid Wrench of PB Blaster. Let it sit overnight. Have you tried a cheater bar on your wrench? Leverage is king. Either you'll break your wrench or remove the pedal.
Cheers, Geoff
 
A good rule of thumb for loosening pedals....

Pull the wrench towards the back of the bike on both sides to loosen.

Push wrench towards the front of the bike on both sides to tighten.

You might want to also check for any "L" or "R" markings to make sure the pedals are on the correct side of the bike.
 
Is it a one or three piece crank?

The crank on my CL Fuji was three piece and I could not get the left pedal loose, even with a cheater bar. It acted like I was going to round of the pedal before it broke loose...then it hit me!

I pulled the cap off the end of the pedal, removed the hardware so just the "axle" was there. The I put the flats of the pedal directly in the vice and used the crank arm as its own lever, then it broke loose very easily...

So if the goal is to save the crank and you can use this method or just sacrifice the pedal, give it a try.
 
it's a one piece. and yes it's the left pedal. I'm just limited on tools bc i just moved into an apartment and was living at home with the parents before I joined the military. So all the tools I'm used to using are back home.

I was hoping i'd be able to do this with minimal cost, but that's starting to turn the other way. I'm sure with this sick addiction that's forming, they'll be worthwhile investments


and by cheater bar are you referring to shoving a piece of pipe over the wrench, or is there an actual tool?
 
WhiteShadow said:
by cheater bar are you referring to shoving a piece of pipe over the wrench, or is there an actual tool?

yes, that's exactly what he means.
i think that's almost a textbook definition/description you wrote.
 
Rat Rod said:
A good rule of thumb for loosening pedals....

Pull the wrench towards the back of the bike on both sides to loosen.

Push wrench towards the front of the bike on both sides to tighten.

You might want to also check for any "L" or "R" markings to make sure the pedals are on the correct side of the bike.


This is the best way to remember. I never thought of it that way either until I read it here on this site a year or so ago. :eek: 8) I'd always stand facing the pedal in question thinking about which way to turn before starting. :oops:
 
tried the liquid wrench. usually the stuff works pretty quick but i'll let it soak and reapply occasionally.

im going to be picking up an old huffy good vibration to donate some whitewalls, the leather seat i want, and grips. maybe i'll be able to steal the crank and just hack the old one off


lets hope it doesnt get stuck as well...
 
thatismytruck said:
Rat Rod said:
A good rule of thumb for loosening pedals....

Pull the wrench towards the back of the bike on both sides to loosen.

Push wrench towards the front of the bike on both sides to tighten.

You might want to also check for any "L" or "R" markings to make sure the pedals are on the correct side of the bike.


This is the best way to remember. I never thought of it that way either until I read it here on this site a year or so ago. :eek: 8) I'd always stand facing the pedal in question thinking about which way to turn before starting. :oops:
use the brake to hold, while you loosen, coaster buddies :wink:
 
i gave up and hacked it off. worse hour of my life. but the components i'm taking from the huffy are in great condition. I'm just glad I can move on with the project, so I have a decent reason to start another.
 
WhiteShadow said:
... what kind of grease should i use to degrease to clean and re-grease everything once it's all clean and painted and ready to re-assemble?

Mineral Spirits and a old toothbrush work great to de-grease and clean, and it's cheap. WEAR GLOVES! And I just use "red" wheel bearing grease from the local farm supply, also cheap. Good luck with the rest...! Can't wait to see the build! :wink:
 
this one isn't going to be a rat by any means, mostly just a gut transfer and repaint. but i already have a rat brewing in my head. I lack the ability/supplies/work area to chop and weld, so i'm limited to parts and paint builds for the time being.
 
one of the smaller frame bars completely snapped off the frame where it was welded. I don't have a welder. Could I just throw a dab of jb weld at the joint and call it a day? i didnt even notice because its pressed against the frame, but when i was sanding it became clear.


i'm becoming more and more motivated to buy some flat black paint and forget about the paint job i had in mind
 
WhiteShadow said:
one of the smaller frame bars completely snapped off the frame where it was welded. I don't have a welder. Could I just throw a dab of jb weld at the joint and call it a day? i didnt even notice because its pressed against the frame, but when i was sanding it became clear.
Ooooo...Dude, I'm not sure...That sounds kinda serious. I don't want you to get hurt riding a bike with a broken frame!! :shock: Any way you can get someone to re-weld that frame bar? J.B. Weld won't hold up to the stress that riding will put on the frame...imo... :cry:
 
Is this a cantilever frame? I've seen a rat with seatstay/seatpost separation fixed with... not that I recommend this... a hose clamp! :shock: Wrapped around the cantis and top tube. :?
 
ya its a cantilever, at least I think it is from the pictures i've been comparing after searching. it just pisses me off because I've been spending all this time taking the paint off, and then I see this.

it's the small bar that attaches to the front stem. is this really that important in a structural sense, or is it more of a cosmetic thing?


is brazing hard to do?


edit-pic-
dsc0340c.jpg
 
No, brazing isn't hard...Have you got torches? I think that if I were going to try a repair with an oxy-accetelyne torch, I'd just go ahead and weld it..."is this really that important in a structural sense"...Yea, but it's not like you couldn't ride it. Although I don't recommend it...Good luck! Hey! I just thought of something...ANY FELLOW RATRODDERS IN THE NEWPORT NEWS AREA THAT CAN HELP A BROTHER OUT!!! Good luck!
 
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