Pic request: Cruisers with 24" front wheel and 26" rear

[slacker]

Similar to bad news, I too am looking for inspiration.

Please post pics of bikes with 24 inch front wheels and 26 inch rear wheels. Extra point for cruisers and rigid front ends.

I am working through a project in my head. Thinking of an "almost cycle truck" cruiser with a Wald 139 or 157 basket sitting fairly low over a 24" disc brake wheel. You know, low cg and all that good stuff?

-Pedro

 

[aka_locojoe]

Well neither is what you asked for but closest that I have.
First a 24-20 combo then a 26-20. Don't know if these will help ya.
Maybe I or someone else can photo shop something.

 

[GTCOMA]

Here is one of the opposite, 26" in front and 24" in the rear.

 

[slacker]

Thanks, Randy. The blue bike helps quite a bit. Just trying to get the lines of the bike worked out before embarking on the actual project. Hadn't thought of a 20" wheel. That might work as well.

 

[skoda]

I like that reversed 24 rear, 26 front. Looks very Easy Rider.

 

[lefty801]

On a side note, I bet that blue bike is a riot to ride...Kinda on the bumpy side.

Lefty

 

[aka_locojoe]

On a side note, I bet that blue bike is a riot to ride...Kinda on the bumpy side.

Lefty

I briefly had the wheel on that bike for testing. Here's what I ended up doing with it

 

[Uncle Stretch]

Hey Slacker try this ,it may be where your heading anyway.

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/583862785.html

 

[aka_locojoe]

Here ya go...

 

[lefty801]

Joe, that's a cool looking bike. When I imagine riding it, it brings on the kind of giggles that you just can't stop, the kind that start at the core and just radiates from there. Thinking about it reminded me of those old skooters that you needed to hop up and down on the propel you forward, what a grin. As for the rims are they just welded together with conduit?? How hard would it be to eliminate the inside rim and basically build your own mag rim? Hmmm. How perfect would the setup have to be to keep the rim true?? Is that even possible or is this just a pipe dream in my own head? I'm trying to put a 26" version of the bike I had as a kid together. Back then it was a red schwinn stingray with a set of yellow plastic mags, black banana seat, black BMX handlebars. This time around its a schwinn 26" cantilever frame of unknown origin, a red banana seat, a set of BMX bars, the only thing I couldn't work out were the 26"mags. Found a set on ebay but couldn't justify the price. What do ya think?? Theoretically, if I measure the distance from hub to rim, allow for contours, and cut 6 or 8 of equal length, it should work. I could even offset them to each side of the hub to provide some lateral stability. What am I missing, I don't have a clue about welding, is there something here that just won't work.

Sorry about the hijack, just got the wheels spinning

Lefty

 

[TheDuke]

Heres a 20/24 setup:

L8 EM

 

[Uncle Stretch]

Hey lefty I thought about it too. I'm thinking the problem you will run into,is being able to weld the tubing to a coaster brake. You might could if you used a front hub ,but they are still really thin. Could probably use some 1/4 solid rod and get it to work.

 

[GTCOMA]

On a side note, I bet that blue bike is a riot to ride...Kinda on the bumpy side.

Lefty

I briefly had the wheel on that bike for testing. Here's what I ended up doing with it

That bike is awesome! i need to build one. How hard do you suppose it would be to build the rims off center with diferent length spokes and lacing patterns?

 

[slacker]

Thanks, Uncle Stretch. I am well aware of the Workman and Schwinn Cycle Truck. The guy I bought my Town and Country from has a Workman Low Gravity and Tandem, both possibly for sale. Heaviest bike I have ever tried to lift. I have owned cars lighter that the tandem.

 

[lefty801]

What part is too thin? the "drum" part of the coaster brake? Being that thin would warpage be an issue? I still dont know anything about welding but I thought it is better to weld two pieces of the same thickness as opposed to different thicknesses. What if I used 1/2" thin walled conduit and pressed the end (near the hub) flat and welded that to the flange? That seems to me like that might work. Heck that would be even easier than cutting notches in the tubing that follow the 3D contour of the hub. What about using those hubs that have a huge diameter like 3" or 4"...? How many "legs" would be needed to make it strong enough to hold up the weight of a rider? Ya, I konw too many ??? at one time but now I'm brainstorming and gotta get it all out lol.

Again, sorry for the highjack,
Lefty

 

[Uncle Stretch]

Sorry Pedro,was just trying to help. Good luck with your project.
And Lefty if you were an ace welder and had Tig skills I doubt with the way that welding metal moves things around ,that you could get it to stay close enough to be true. Can't grab a spoke wrench and make fine adjustments after you lay down a bead. I'm pretty sure you would end up with a really warped coaster and a bunch of holes burnt in some conduit. ha ha

 

[TheFlyingDingo]

I dont get it...wouldnt it roll weird?

 

[lefty801]

Dang, I'll just have to let it roll around in my head for a little while longer. Probably just have to break down and buy a set. ooh, ooh, ooh what if you removed just two/three spokes to fit that piece in, weld it, then move to the next one on the other side until you made it all the way around, the spokes would maintain the trueness(to a point). When all the pieces are in, remove the rest of the spokes. ok, ok, enough, I have to go to bed, I'll sleep on it and see what else I can dream up.

And yes Dingo, thats the whole point of that setup is to have them roll funny, kinda like you very own roller coaster ride. It would bump you silly. On the same rotation it would hop you right off the seat, and on opposite rotation it would be like a hobbie horse. Barrel of laughs as far as I'm concerned.

Lefty

 

[aka_locojoe]

I dont get it...wouldnt it roll weird?

See this thread for more info and video.

Lefty... I used cut up bicycle tubing, seat posts etc... to fill the gap in the wheels. I had thought about welding tubes from rim to hub but determined it would be too difficult.

Now back to Slackers project...

 

[sensor]

what if you removed just two/three spokes to fit that piece in, weld it, then move to the next one on the other side until you made it all the way around, the spokes would maintain the trueness(to a point).

wouldnt really work cuz once you start getting heat on steel it has a tendency to move around on you plus the spokes would probably just warp from the heat