Powder Coating pricing

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icyuod2 said:
hey ace, if ya mask off 1/2 the seat post ya won't have problems getting it to fit. :)


here in ont., i was just quoted $350 to sand plast and powder coat all these parts in military green and black.
IMG_1055-1.jpg

That is sweet. I just picked up a 62' YG1.
 
My LBS said they can get frame & fork sandblasted & painted for around $80. My uncle has machined parts powdercoated all the time and said he'd be surprised if his guy would charge me more than $50. But I wonder if the extra $30 is worth having it done by a guy who knows bikes. Hmm...
 
icyuod2 said:
hey ace, if ya mask off 1/2 the seat post ya won't have problems getting it to fit. :)

I got an estimate for fork and seatpost for €40 all together, not bad in my book :D The guy told me his coating is about 100 mµ thick, but I figure as I'm going to blast the chrome off it won't make much difference in the end. I more expect it to be thinner than thicker, same goes for the forklegs I assume, but please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks for the pointer though, will double check size after blasting.
 
from what I understand, no that wont work. Everything must be able to withstand a 400 degree oven, so I know you cant use regular bondo. Not sure if they make a special filler for something like this or not?
 
I get a friend hookup. It's $40 for frame, forks and chainguard to be blasted and coated if I pick a color that's in stock. Normal price is $75. I thought $75 was pretty average for blasting and coating. I guess maybe not.
 
I have absolutely no idea how this stuff responds to powdercoating, but I've used Magic Bond in the past and it can stand some serious heat. It's rockhard after curing but is still sandable. I've used it on the inside of a cilinderhead on my Whizzer after it developped a crack next to the sparkplug (notoriously weak spot on the replica-models). Had to wait a few weeks before a new head shipped from the States, but managed to put on 400 more kms with that stuff as a temp fix. Mind you, expensive test if it doesn't work well with powdercoating, but it just might do the trick.

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/Produc ... 1000001807

If it works inside a cilinder, it withstands far more than the given 250ºF as max.
But please don't quote me on that, I'm not that great with ºF :mrgreen: I just know it took 350ºC on my Whizzer for quite some time :shock:
 
aka_locojoe said:
Regular bondo is not metallic so it can't be energized or whatever to attract or hold the powder coat. I've heard they make a special bondo with metal in it but I've never seen it or heard of anyone using it that I can recall.
Needs to conduct electricity for powdercoat to bond. :|
 
My understanding is that the parts are electrically charged to make the powder bond. So the parts to be coated need to be electrically conductive. I guess you could use lead as a filler and file and sand it smooth (with a respirator).
 
Walker said:
My understanding is that the parts are electrically charged to make the powder bond. So the parts to be coated need to be electrically conductive. I guess you could use lead as a filler and file and sand it smooth (with a respirator).

I would never try to sand something smooth with a respirator. :mrgreen:
 
I just tried a filler I found at Walmart called Plastic Meatal it seems to work, did not melt @400
and was pretty easy to sand. I'll let you know the longevity.
 
I do my own powder coating most of the time but one our vendors at work quoted me a price of $70 for 2 26" frames, forks, 4 fenders. and a chain guard and I could pass that up theyre doing all the blasting, Here's where I get alot of my powders http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-coating.html, I've talked to one of the local bike guys who has his frames coated and he'll actually strip the frames down and fill any dents with brazing rod and his frames have turned out really smooth
 
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