Question about a 1970s Scwinn price.

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Wildcat said:
With the brakes you already have, I would go with a freewheel. Use your existing wheels unless you want to be able to go back to the 6 speeds. Otherwise another set of wheels might be the way to go. Getting hubs, spokes and rim and lacing them up or having them done will be much more expensive than a set ready to go. With a 44 tooth chain wheel, a 20 tooth cog might work well.

Or you could just remove the derailleur and shorten the chain and use one gear on the cluster. We used to do that when our cheap 10 speed gears gave out.
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Is freewheel a better a way to go than a coaster brake? What about the stem?
 
MaX-D said:
Is freewheel a better a way to go than a coaster brake? What about the stem?
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The freewheel lets you backpedal so you can position your feet higher when offroad so you don't catch any stumps or rocks on the cranks. If I didn't have hand brakes I would go with a coaster brake.
The handlebar stem? I think it depends on your bars. The BMX style should work well with your bike.
 
That's my weight also, but I was heavier and coaster brakes worked well for me. It's always good to have an extra brake too in case the chain breaks.
Here's a couple of my SS coaster brake bikes:
2zso5g3.jpg


44302_4fbf7e1252951c7254b9d6fc52d86bd1.jpg
 
I'm close, weight wise, and I ride my coaster brake pretty hard. Hasn't let me down yet. The beauty of coasters is that you can use your weight, the heavier the pressure, the more the brake is applied. That's why they skid so well!
IMG_20210325_123717246.jpg

I haven't been riding this one enough lately
 
I weigh just over 200 and love the clean look of bikes with no cables of anything hanging off of them. A coaster brake works for me in light cruising duty alright, but for long downhills, dealing in the dirt or at the pump track, I prefer freewheeling. It all depends on what you intend to do with the bike.
 
Karate Chicken Industries said:
I weigh just over 200 and love the clean look of bikes with no cables of anything hanging off of them. A coaster brake works for me in light cruising duty alright, but for long downhills, dealing in the dirt or at the pump track, I prefer freewheeling. It all depends on what you intend to do with the bike.
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I will be using the bike for neighborhood cruising with the fam, canal road and local single track. I live in S.Florida. Everything is flat here, absolutely no hills at all. I've been using my SE OM Flyer for trail riding. It does well.

I love the looks I get from people on $1k+ MTN bikes when I show up to ride the trails. It pisses them off even more when I keep up with them. 🤣😛
I can only imagine the looks when I show up with a coaster brake klunker! Good times.
 
MaX-D said:
I will be using the bike for neighborhood cruising with the fam, canal road and local single track. I live in S.Florida. Everything is flat here, absolutely no hills at all. I've been using my SE OM Flyer for trail riding. It does well.

I love the looks I get from people on $1k+ MTN bikes when I show up to ride the trails. It pisses them off even more when I keep up with them. 🤣😛
I can only imagine the looks when I show up with a coaster brake klunker! Good times.
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so you'll be doing basically the exact same thing I am doing in coastal SC with the klunker I am building in the RRBBO. Cruising around town, hitting some paths, maybe a trail or gravel road here and there, maybe the beach. I'm just running a Bendix rear to keep it nice and tidy with no cables or extras
 
Captain Awesome said:
so you'll be doing basically the exact same thing I am doing in coastal SC with the klunker I am building in the RRBBO. Cruising around town, hitting some paths, maybe a trail or gravel road here and there.
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Exactly! BTW, What gearing are you running on your bike?
 
HDratz said:
Good combo. I don't know what bike manufacturers were thinking when they made 46/18 the de facto standard for SS cruisers.
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I'm typically between 34-38 and 18-22. This new gravel bike I just got is my first geared bike in well over a decade so I'm fairly in tune with gearing selections and fine tuning for conditions. I ran 34/20 on my single speed 29" mountain bike for the majority of it's use. Works in all environments and I don't mind spinning out a bit
 
Captain Awesome said:
I'm typically between 34-38 and 18-22. This new gravel bike I just got is my first geared bike in well over a decade so I'm fairly in tune with gearing selections and fine tuning for conditions. I ran 34/20 on my single speed 29" mountain bike for the majority of it's use. Works in all environments and I don't mind spinning out a bit
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Same here. I would rather spin out on the flats than strain on mild grades. I went with 36/22 on my recent Husky build and don't regret it at all.
 
You could go with a 2 speed hub with coaster brake and still have no cables. Either kickback or automatic. I have one of each but prefer the kickback where I shift when I want to.

Sturmey Archer kickback 2 speed w coaster. You pedal back slightly to shift between high and low gear.
SA 2 speed.JPG


SRAM Automatix. This is the freewheel version but the coaster version is very similar. It shifts when you get to about 12 mph then shifts back when you slow down.
4 cross - Copy.JPG
 
Wildcat said:
You could go with a 2 speed hub with coaster brake and still have no cables. Either kickback or automatic. I have one of each but prefer the kickback where I shift when I want to.

Sturmey Archer kickback 2 speed w coaster. You pedal back slightly to shift between high and low gear.
View attachment 163213

SRAM Automatix. This is the freewheel version but the coaster version is very similar. It shifts when you get to about 12 mph then shifts back when you slow down.
View attachment 163214
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How durable is the Sturmey 2 speed? Can it take a beating? I pedal hard quite a bit.
 
I would refer to the reviews from people who have put many miles on one, I haven't put 50 miles on mine and probably won't be riding hard like I used to.
 

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