Removing original paint is kicking my butt

[Caleb Provencio]

Looking for experience in what is the best way to remove the original paint from my '54 Hawthorne. I've tried lots of things and I'm currently using 3 different methods and I've only been mildly successful. So far I've been spraying a paint remover on it, using a portable abrasive blaster kit from Harbor Freight (120ish PSI) then hitting the trouble spots with a electric hand sander.

I'll admit that I'm in NorCal and the temps during the day are low 50's and the paint remover can says 65-90 degrees is best. Also, I had way better expectations for the sand blaster. I'm thinking I need to go only in short spurts since my little 1.5hp air compressor is probably struggling to keep up with some of my long sprays.

Anything that I'm missing? Maybe removing paint is just a huge pain in the rear and these are the love pains of re-energizing an old cruiser? Either way, I'm open to ideas since I've got the forks, tanks, rims and lots of bolts and parts to go still. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Caleb

 

[LukeTheJoker]

I use an electric wire brush, works well for me, just make sure if you do, you use a face mask and eye protection at the very least!

Luke.

 

[us56456712]

Some original paint is almost impossible to remove. The worst I have found is the black on old English 3 speeds. I saw a video of an old English bike factory and they dipped the frames in the enamel paint. I tried all the removers on this type of paint and it didn't even soften it. What finally worked was the drywall sanding screens. I cut them in strips and held the ends and went back and forth so the abrasive went part way around the bike frame tubes. Real thin strips get into the close areas. What I like about the drywall screens is that they are tough and don't rip like sandpaper. I use a cup type wire brush on a 10,000 RPM hand grinder and that works for the easy to get at spots. The drywall screen brings the rest down to bare metal fairly fast and about two hours should result in a clean frame. The aircraft remover works pretty fast for most bike frames, paint just melts off. Aircraft remover won't touch the black old English enamel.

 

[Caleb Provencio]

Thanks guys, I'm going to get an electric wire brush like Luke posted and I think Us564 was talking about the same thing.

2 more issues I'm having as of today:

1. The thin pieces of metal that hold the fenders on are really hard to sand and they are not screwed into the fender but riveted - making it impossible to do a great job sanding the inside of the fender. This leads me to my next question:

2. What about drilling out these rivets and taking off the pieces that hold the fender to the bike? This will let me sand the inside of the fender and I was thinking I could replace the rivets with screws later?

Thoughts?

 

[RustySprockets]

Sure, you can drill them out with care...usually just enough to weaken the peened-over area. But, why replace them with an ill-fitting bolt when actual rivets are available? I think you'll find what the rivet lacks in serviceability, it makes up for in clearance and originality. They're probably cheaper than the threaded items, too. Find them through Fastenal, McMaster-Carr, Grainger, etc.

 

[BARTO]

I prefer the tried and true method of sending it to a professional and paying them....let them deal with the mess

 

[us56456712]

Thanks guys, I'm going to get an electric wire brush like Luke posted and I think Us564 was talking about the same thing.

2 more issues I'm having as of today:

1. The thin pieces of metal that hold the fenders on are really hard to sand and they are not screwed into the fender but riveted - making it impossible to do a great job sanding the inside of the fender. This leads me to my next question:

2. What about drilling out these rivets and taking off the pieces that hold the fender to the bike? This will let me sand the inside of the fender and I was thinking I could replace the rivets with screws later?

Thoughts?

I drill them out and replace them.

 

[Lil' rat rod]

Hard to beat a media blaster if you have access to one.....

 

[Caleb Provencio]

Rusty - thanks, easily came out drilling through the center, I'm also gonna take your advice and put a rivet back in there.

Barto - I'm almost there, so close now I think I'll keep at it. You are right though, it had been a complete mess!

Luke - thanks, I got me a angle grinder and a wire brush and it has been awesome on the painted frame and fork. Unfortunately it doesn't work at all on the powder coating on the tanks and rims...I've been using paint stripper on those and it has been a very slow, very very messy process.



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[pick]

I use
Scotch-Brite Roloc SE Surface Conditioning Disc TR, 2" Diameter, A Medium Grit
with an air powered angle grinder. Works great with a little elbow grease! Usually takes me about 10 discs to strip a frame. I get mine at O'Reilly Auto Parts. You can find them cheaper in a larger quantity on line.

 

[olddude13]

Sand blast use fine sand from box store, sand box sand.
you have the tools doit out side it works

 

[seangee]

Wish I had a sandblaster. I've heard that broken up pecan shells works best in a media blaster. I use jasco (slot like aircraft stripper but available at Lowe's), sandpaper, drywall screens, and little wire wheels that fit on my drill

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[olddude13]

i have a blasting cabinet, when part is too big i go out side use a big cardboard sheet to contain media and reuse (filter with old window screen) over bucket
walnut shells may work i use them on aluminum mostly
harbor freight sells bag of shells and silica sand
use eye goggles full face shield and resporator!

 

[Eliminator3speed]

I scuff all the paint with 100 grit just enough to break the shine and put some scratches in the paint. Then I apply paint stripper, I have to lok in the garage and see what one I am using currently. Its very strong and removed the paint the best but it keeps melting my gloves, brushes, and disposable paint trays. However maybe 3 applications and you have bare metal. I scrape the paint each time with a plastic scraper or steel wool. At the end I use a fine wire wheel on a hand grinder and just kind of polish everything. Then degrease and paint.

 

[horsefarmer]

"it keeps melting my gloves, brushes, and disposable paint trays"
Kinda reminds me of the TriCloroEthylene solvent in a pint can I bought at a USAF surplus auction years ago. Went to remove overspray from a chevy pickup tail light lens AND IT MELTED!

 

[Eliminator3speed]

The paint stripper is goof off paint stripper. It should work good for you. But don't let it dry on the paint, otherwise the paint will turn into a hard shell. But if that happens just put more stripper on it let it soak and it will start to soften up.

By the way if you ever get paint on a tail light lens, the best way to get it off is with 600, grit sand paper followed 800 and then 1200, then use the buffing wheel you use to detail your car and use the coarse polishing compound you use for scratches followed by the fine and it will look like a new lens. It also works well on bike reflectors.