Replacing innertubes
- Thread starter twin
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
Does anyone have any tips?
I always like to take the new tube and put just a little air in it outside of the rim and tire just to get it to a good shape and then stick it in.
voodoowagon said:
That's exactly what I do as well..
Do you guys place one side of the tire on the rim and then insert the tube - or - insert the tube in the tire and then place both on the rim at same time?
I've seen it done both ways.
I do the first method.
I've seen it done both ways.
I do the first method.
aka_locojoe said:
that's what i usually do...quicker changes when commuting
what i do is use what ever i have laying around (spoon, flat head,small wrench) stick it under the tire and roll it around the rim till one side of the tire is off. Pull the tube out than the whole tire can come off. Then i'll put just just enough air in the tube off the wheel just to give it shape. Than stick half the tire back on the rim, put the valve in the whole push the rest of the tube into the half on tire and pop the hole thing back on. (make sence?)
This is the best way...
The best way for most fat tires, i.e. 1.5", 1.75", 1-3/4", 2.125" or more, is to roll the bead on one side onto the rim by hand, then insert the tube, then work the second bead over.
This won't work with EVERY tire on EVERY rim, certainly not if you're doing something you shouldn't, like putting a wrong size on, but mostly it will work. Old tires are likely to have brittle bead rubber and require great care. Some brands of tires have very stiff beads; some are designed to hook into the rim; some rims have a smooth inner edge and some more of a ridge for catching the bead.
I find I can nearly always get the first bead on by hand, though it takes some pushing at one point or another. 20" fat tires seem to be the easiest, but again, there are many brands, they're not all the same, and they don't fit the same on every rim.
Once you have that first bead on, put a LITTLE air into the new tube (an old tube, if it's still good or has been repaired, will probably have about the right amount in it). You just want it to hold its shape, and be pretty floppy. If it fights you at any point, just let more air out or remove the stem completely.
The stem must go through the hole straight, and you have to be careful to keep it straight while working the tire on, and also avoid catching the rubber rim band and pulling it through the hole as well.
With it all together, the tire MAY allow you to rotate the rim inside it easily, to correct the way the stem points out. You want it almost perfectly straight. I did a new whitewall Chinese repro tire for the front of my '66 Deluxe Stingray today, and the tire was quite tight; it took some fighting to get the stem to point out happily at a nice 90°. Here's where baby powder helps- it prevents rubber-to-rubber contact and allows easy adjustment of tire vs rim.
Some tires are almost TOO loose, and with these you'll find you need to probably try several times to get the tire centered on the rim. There's a line molded into the bead area to assist in centering the tire, just like a car tire has.
Good luck with it!
--=={{Rob}}==--
aka_locojoe said:
The best way for most fat tires, i.e. 1.5", 1.75", 1-3/4", 2.125" or more, is to roll the bead on one side onto the rim by hand, then insert the tube, then work the second bead over.
This won't work with EVERY tire on EVERY rim, certainly not if you're doing something you shouldn't, like putting a wrong size on, but mostly it will work. Old tires are likely to have brittle bead rubber and require great care. Some brands of tires have very stiff beads; some are designed to hook into the rim; some rims have a smooth inner edge and some more of a ridge for catching the bead.
I find I can nearly always get the first bead on by hand, though it takes some pushing at one point or another. 20" fat tires seem to be the easiest, but again, there are many brands, they're not all the same, and they don't fit the same on every rim.
Once you have that first bead on, put a LITTLE air into the new tube (an old tube, if it's still good or has been repaired, will probably have about the right amount in it). You just want it to hold its shape, and be pretty floppy. If it fights you at any point, just let more air out or remove the stem completely.
The stem must go through the hole straight, and you have to be careful to keep it straight while working the tire on, and also avoid catching the rubber rim band and pulling it through the hole as well.
With it all together, the tire MAY allow you to rotate the rim inside it easily, to correct the way the stem points out. You want it almost perfectly straight. I did a new whitewall Chinese repro tire for the front of my '66 Deluxe Stingray today, and the tire was quite tight; it took some fighting to get the stem to point out happily at a nice 90°. Here's where baby powder helps- it prevents rubber-to-rubber contact and allows easy adjustment of tire vs rim.
Some tires are almost TOO loose, and with these you'll find you need to probably try several times to get the tire centered on the rim. There's a line molded into the bead area to assist in centering the tire, just like a car tire has.
Good luck with it!
--=={{Rob}}==--
