Rollfast

[us56456712]

Yeah, that's a brief Spring / Summer up there for sure. I directed an adventure camp on Lake Superior for 3 yrs on the south shore. We did training in the lake that required 15 mins of treading water in case of a canoe capsize....in the first week of June. It would take an hour in the sauna before you could feel anything below your waist....

I hate the chilblains that Lake Superior gives you in June. You get them between your legs from just wading to your waist and running back to shore, can't breath, let alone tread water for 15 minutes. I would happily drown rather than put with that for 15 minutes. My legs and feet start to ache so bad that I usually don't make it to my waist. The treading water exposure probably aggravated your arthritis. Those Ritis brothers are bad news and the worse one is Art.

 

[us56456712]

The fork I decided to use on this project. I might as well because everything else I am using is from here and there. The only Rollfast part is the frame and head badge.

 

[OneHorsePower]

Love these fork ! pretty sure it will be a great match with the curved truss , it should compliment the frame nicely

 

[brett4christ]

Who is the manufacturer of that springer fork?!?!?! Sweet!!!

 

[us56456712]

Who is the manufacturer of that springer fork?!?!?! Sweet!!!

CWC (Cleveland Welding Company)

 

[us56456712]

I wire brushed with a wheel, sanded and then coated the frame in gun metal rust remover. It's amazing how many gouges there are in the metal. I will have to file them smooth, prime and fill with spot glaze.

 

[OddJob]

Great fork! That's gonna look perfect on the frame!

 

[us56456712]

It's raining today so I worked on my fenders. I make hammering dollies out of left over concrete or mortar. I just line a good fender or good part of a fender with plastic wrap and pour in the concrete. You can get most of the dents out by feeling or seeing the dents and then tapping against the dolly. After I put on several coats of primer, sanding reveals the spots you missed. They are the bare metal places on the bottom side of the peak. I then use a small ball-peen hammer and the dolly to remove the remaining high and low spots. I have to use a little filler as I don't have a roller and would probably ruin the finders if I had an English wheel.

 

[us56456712]

I rebuilt the New Departure hub today.

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Always loved the idea of your concrete dolly...

Luke.

 

[us56456712]

First coat of primer. I still have to file and fill the nicks.

 

[us56456712]

Base coat.

 

[Chad T]

Looking good. Love that concrete dolly deal.

 

[us56456712]

I had quite a day. I finished my 1940s-50s CWC framed junkmobile, which I posted under builds. I took it for a test ride to show to some other bike folks and was offered for free two 1960s Woman's cruisers and a Schwinn camel back which I refused because I have 35 bike and my max is 22. The same guy gave me a Bendix Yellow Band kickback wheel. It doesn't work but I may see what it needs someday. The wheel and hub are nice with no rust. Then I went by a thrift store and they had an all original pre war woman's CWC with a cool gooseneck, nice heavy duty headlight mount, New Departure skip tooth and skip tooth chain, curved fender braces, peaked fenders, truss rods and a feather chain guard. The braces and fenders are perfect. I got it cheap and will use the fenders, braces and chain guard on my build off bike. The peaked fenders I have need a lot of work so I will eventually swap them onto this Woman's CWC. I spent the rest of the afternoon trying to give away a bike so I could get some room to work. I asked 7 other vintage bike enthusiasts if they wanted a free 1970s Chicago Schwinn Suburban. I have $10 into a new chain for it but I need the room so bad that I was just trying to give it to someone who would appreciate it. The 7th guy took it. I still need to get rid of a few more, but not so desperately.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Nice score! You never know what will turn up a thrift stores!

 

[us56456712]

I'm having pangs of conscience. I am using a long spring seat I built for this bike, but I made the seat last year and tossed into my furnace room where I have been collecting parts for this bike for the last 4 years. I really should make another for this project but I don't have the time. My plan is to put a disclaimer on the seat in the final posting of this project, assuming I finish it here. I found an old abandoned lazy boy in a woods dump and the land owner said I could have the springs from it so I could make another from other junk I have. If I have time I could do that but I probably won't have the time. The bike frame was also broken and I repaired that a year ago Christmas. Here is what I plan to use for the seat. Am I being a total cheat here, what should I do? Should I drop out?

You can see the new seat post clamp I welded on as the original was broken off and a lucky 7 seat post was welded to the frame when i got it. I got it cheap because of this. I cut the welded post off, drilled a 5/8 hole in a piece of one inch stock and welded onto the frame.

 

[OddJob]

I see you re-purposing parts from a previous build, which many others are doing on builds in this build-off. I see no problem with that whatsoever. You didn't actually start assembling or modifying said parts until after May 1, so in my mind you are good to go!
Rat on!

 

[us56456712]

I built a heavy duty headlight mount so it wouldn't sag or bounce. I probably over built it? It has a stop built in, it is braced against the bottom of the mount on the fork so gravity can't make it move or bounce down. I did a loose test fit but I will have to put in the final bend/adjustment once the fork is on the bike. Now I can disassemble the springer fork and paint it. I can't get the switch in the flashlight battery holder I am working on to work so I will have to come up with a remote switch, boho! I wonder if I could mount a switch on the bottom of the homemade headlight mount?

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Seat should be fine for the BO...

Luke.

 

[us56456712]

I put a switch for the headlight under the headlight mount I made. Its a tight fit but I can get my finger under there and turn it on and off. I am going to use JB Weld on the switch body and under the strap, but it is very tight without it. Can't go wrong over engineering I say.

When my crude mount is finished with a little filler and painted flat black it should not be noticable tucked away under the light and between the springer bars.